EFS 24mm hood comparison

[Ramsden]

Hi folks

Following on from my EFS 24MM post that led to a brief discussion on the different hoods, I did a short experiment.

EOS90D on a tripod in my small front garden. Yorkshire UK. Midday, grey overcast. Camera set on Green A to let it do all the work.

Two shots of a tulip head and bushes behind.

1st with LH 25 hood fitted

2nd with K&F hood.

Taken 2 mins apart.

I think I can see a difference, but struggling to put it into serious photographic language.

What do you think?

 

 

 I should add that the camera wouldn't let me fine tune the focus in the A mode.

Both with same Ultra Low Reflection UV filter.

Ramsden 

 

[johnrmoyer]

I hope some of this might be helpful.

For such a comparison, I suggest using manual mode, manual focus, and a remote trigger. For some cameras, the Canon Camera Connect app will work as a remote trigger without spending any money. If there are any clouds, or if there is too much time between shots outdoors, the scene lighting will have changed. If there is any wind, things will have moved between photos. 

If the sun is just outside of the field of view is when one is most likely to see lens flare without a hood. It might be obvious enough to notice without close inspection.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_hood#Cause_of_lens_flare   

Also, it is  possible to compare two images using free software.

Gimp: https://docs.gimp.org/2.6/nl/gimp-concepts-layer-modes.html subtract will show the difference. 

Difference mode subtracts the pixel value of the upper layer from that of the lower layer and then takes the absolute value of the result. No matter what the original two layers look like, the result looks rather odd. You can use it to invert elements of an image.

GMIC, GraphicsMagick, and Imagemagick are 3 free software programs that can do it on a command line.

I gave an example of the difference between images at: 

https://www.rsok.com/~jrm/2026Apr30_birds_and_cats/IMG_5771c_2026apr03_titmouse.html This case is slightly different processing differences and most of the difference is in the brighter areas.

IMG_5771_diff.jpeg is the difference between IMG_5771c.JPG and IMG_5771c2.JPG

[kvbarkley]

You also have to work to make sure that the camera is not automagically correcting for vignetting.

[johnrmoyer]

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@kvbarkley wrote:

You also have to work to make sure that the camera is not automagically correcting for vignetting.

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@kvbarkley wrote:

You also have to work to make sure that the camera is not automagically correcting for vignetting.

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You are correct. 

Turn off auto lighting optimizer, peripheral illumination correction, and highlight tone priority.

[Ramsden]

Thanks for your detailed responses. It will be a few days before I can proceed with this project  - but I'll try and get back to you next week. I thought there would be more to it, but that  LH -25 is quite unusual. 

But you were right about the changes, even over a couple of minutes. Plus I was tempted to switch to AI Servo because of the gentle breeze.

Ramsden 

[zakslm]

Ramsden,

I would think that evaluating a lens hood is similar to evaluating a parachute.  You only notice it when it doesn’t work!  If there is flare coming in at a relatively oblique angle or vignetting at the edges or corners of a photo, then the hood isn’t doing its job.  

I would guess that both hoods work – possibly to varying degrees but the EW-52 better suits the profile and aesthetics of the EFS 24mm f2.8 STM pancake lens. 

[Ramsden · Accepted solution]

Great analogy.

And I totally agree that the 25 looks great on the  camera.

I'll just keep taking my camera on walks with different lenses, knowing that I've got the option to delete. Its all part of my learning experience.