shutter release not working S100

[sandysorlien]

Hello,

I am suddenly having problems with my S100. It will not take the picture when I press the shutter release. In case I had accidentally changed something, I did a Reset to Defaults. Then it worked, briefly, before returning to not working. It also would not let me change My Colors.  Everything else seems to be working fine.  Any ideas?

[5tr4t4]

One clarification:

Are you actually re-soldering (adding new solder) or just re-heating / reflowing the existing solder on those points?

As the third poster in this long thread from almost 6 years ago, I'm happy to see this DIY solution, at long last!

[John_]

Hi, Jakub what I meant was all the flex boards are connected via push in connectors and they are not soldered to the main PCB for instance. The buttons, as you discovered, are soldered to the flex boards. I imagine there are better ways to assure switches like the shutter button can withstand the pressure and forces exerted on it but Canon dropped the ball on the S100. I think if they did something as simple as epoxying the switch to the flex board it would have prevented those solder joints from cracking over time due to force and movement.

[Danluckett]

When you disassemble enough to free the shutter release assembly (which includes removing GPS unit) you will pull a flex with a lot of fingers from a push connector. Removal is easy, but re-inserting is tricky because the flex (how shall I put this) flexes. You may need to use pliers to grip the flex but do not squeeze hard. Push too hard and something will bend or break. Don't push hard enough and you will not get all of the fingers in contact -- which happened to me and a few others -- and you have to go back and seat it more firmly. Take your time, and know when to stop. The rest of the job is just a matter of following instructions and keeping track of the screws.

[jakub]

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@5tr4t4 wrote:

One clarification:

Are you actually re-soldering (adding new solder) or just re-heating / reflowing the existing solder on those points?

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Reheating was enough for my case. Still, I do not know how long will it last. Now it is working but I doubt the joint is better than when it was done in factory, under proper reflow soldering profile, which guarantee that all the termal stresses are relaxed, and with a new soldering paste. If/when it failes, then I wilI try to remove old solder and put a new one. 

[5tr4t4]

Thank you! I can confirm that this fixed my S100 also (!) ... after six years of sitting in a box. I watched the solder closely under a magnifying glass until I could see it just turn to liquid and sag from the heat, almost 2 full seconds with the very tip of a hot, pointed iron. After pulling away the solder re-hardended and I could immediately take pics with the little white button.

Who knows how long it will last, but it's an easy fix to do again if I have to and it's nice to have this little cam to use again.

[Danluckett]

Wow that is so cool!  The magnifying glass is great addition.

[BurnUnit]

Is there access to, or a bit of space underneath the shutter switch, where you might be able to add in a thin spacer or a shim of some sort to support the switch more solidly? Maybe this would relieve the solder joints from the stress of additional flexing of the PC by continued shutter button usage. Might help to make your repair more permanent.

[John_]

If it were me I would apply epoxy around the base of the switch that will take the stress off the joints. If or when mine fails in this same manner that is exactly what I will do. I would only take the time to do that because I have the waterproof case for it which by itself is worth more than a used, working S100. One thing I would not do is just do the solder repair and put it all back together again.

[5tr4t4]

I thought the same thing but didn't have any epoxy on hand and wanted to test the soldering solution. Honestly, it's 8 small screws and under 10 min for the whole operation. I'll take your good advice, though, some day soon and handle it properly.

[John_]

Most likely just repairing the solder joints will work for a long time but you know about Murphys Law! lol