11-15-2016
10:33 AM
- last edited on
08-20-2024
09:08 AM
by
Danny
I have been trying to shoot pictures of the moon and having lousy results.
First I tried AUTO, which was sort of OK. The problem is when I depress the shutter the sharpness of the picture is less than before I press the shutter to check focus. The resulting image is not what I saw.
I looked online for a few ideas and tried some manual shots at f/5.6, ISO 800, speed 1/250. Again, I could see what seemed to be a pretty good image, but as soon as I pressed the shutter a little, the moon turned white. Tried it several times while using a tripod. Reduced the ISO to 400. Nada. Did not try setting the self timer - didn't seem like that would help.
Went back to AUTO and did get some shots, but again, not as clear as I expected when I pressed the shutter.
Very frustrating.
Obviously, I am new to this.
Thanks
Solved! Go to Solution.
11-16-2016 12:59 PM
I like the big chart, Table 1, at the link. I find it easiest to initially understand. It is written under the assumption that your ISO is set to ISO 100. Notice how Table 2 shows EV with a little "100" next to it. Again, that means ISO-100.
Once you find your spot on the chart, you can work from there. The Looney 11 Rule is found in the f/11 column. Working your way down you come upon 1/125 sec, which you can read off on the left as EV14, which matches Table 2.
You can move left or right "one stop" as you increase [left] or decrease [right] your ISO value. If all you have is f/8, move along the EV14 row, and you can find equivalent exposure settings.
If I stay in the same column and move one square up, then I get a faster shutter speed, which is "one stop" faster. If I increased my ISO by "one stop" [from 100 to 200] I would get nearly the same exposure result.
Moving at a diagonal direction reflects changing two values at the same time, and yields an equivalent exposure setting. I suggest that you sit down in a chair, with your camera on a tripod in front of you, and experiment some. Do it indoors, or outdoors, if you like.
11-15-2016 10:47 AM - edited 11-15-2016 10:54 AM
Try a web search for "Looney 11 Rule" Getting a close up shot of the moon with details of the craters is similar to trying to photograph dust on a lit light bulb. In this situation, it is better to slightly underexpose, than to overexpose.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Looney_11_rule
That is a starting point for your exposure settings for closeup of the Moon. They are 1/100 sec, f/11, ISO-100. The super Moon is 30% brighter than normal, so you may wish to increase the shutter speed slightly, by a full stop, perhaps.
Other settings to consider are manually focusing the camera, and using a STURDY tripod. Using a remote shutter release, or using the built-in shutter timer delay, is essential for reducing and eliminating camera shake.
Another problem to consider is White Balance. What is the true color of the Moon? The Moon is a near perfect reflector of sunlight. A long exposure of landscape shot under a full moon wil looke like it was shot in daylight. The accurate color of the Moon is with a "Daylight" setting for White Balance, although the true color can and will sitll be distorted by the atmosphere.
11-15-2016 11:20 AM
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond.
However, when I tried to use those settings, I cannot get beyond f/8.0 for the aperture. The manual shows f/3.4 to f/8.0 for Av and M.
I think I will try 1/100, f/8.0, and ISO 100. Then maybe 1/250?
My 'old' Nikon will go up to f/8.3.
Thanks again.
11-15-2016 11:34 AM - edited 11-15-2016 11:35 AM
@AuntFrahn wrote:Thank you so much for taking the time to respond.
However, when I tried to use those settings, I cannot get beyond f/8.0 for the aperture. The manual shows f/3.4 to f/8.0 for Av and M.
I think I will try 1/100, f/8.0, and ISO 100. Then maybe 1/250?
My 'old' Nikon will go up to f/8.3.
Thanks again.
Use this chart....
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value
... to figure out equivalent exposure settings.
Remember, the "Looney 11 Rule" is a starting point, not a law. Take photos with slightly different settings, so that you can review them later to see what worked best. If you take all of your photos at the same setting, they will all come out good, or all will come out bad, or most likely somewhere in between.
11-15-2016 03:24 PM
I was out in the desert for an hour or so and just shot with AUTO.
After downloading, I'll check what the camera thought the setting should be against the chart.
Then, tonight I will practice moon shots again keeping the info in your link in mind.
Thanks again,
11-16-2016 10:48 AM
I tried a few settings last night for the moonrise at 7:27 AZ time and then the moonset this morning at 6:45.
Both are ISO 100. The ones with higher ISO didn't turn out so well.
Both are at f/8.0. The others at f/6.5 and f/5.6 weren't quite so good, but I didn't do all combinations.
The moonrise is 1/200 and the moonset at 1/125.
I set to manual focus, but didn't realize that it wasn't always manual. Maybe it changed when I adjusted something else.
It's a new camera and I have never shot on manual focus before.
Used my sturdiest tripod.
Set the timer.
Still would like sharper detail.
11-16-2016 11:18 AM
Those shots look a bit better than my first attempts. I guessed at what to do. Not having the lens in manual is common oversight. I do it all the time. You'll get more chances in coming nights, and again with the December super moon.
I think you did fairly well. Have much trouble with the tirpod, and aligning the camera. The moon MOVES.
11-16-2016 11:46 AM
[Those shots look a bit better than my first attempts. I guessed at what to do. Not having the lens in manual is common oversight. I do it all the time. You'll get more chances in coming nights, and again with the December super moon.
I think you did fairly well. Have much trouble with the tirpod, and aligning the camera. The moon MOVES.]
Thank you.
Cool..another super moon.
Yes, a big problem setting up the tripod for me. I set the timer for 3 shots when the 10 second interval goes off and every picture shows the moon in a different place! I keep looking at it saying, "Hey! I didn't even touch the camera or tripod."
Thanks for your help.
One other question about that chart. From what I can tell, if I pick one EV, say 15 direct sunlight, then reading across that row it will show the suggested shutter speed for each f number.
Then, if you don't have f/11 on the camera, find the settings you want for f/11 - 1/125 - and look at the corresponding shutter speed for f/8.0 which would be 1/250. Does that make sense?
The real question is, where does ISO come into play?
Thanks again for all of your help.
11-16-2016 11:56 AM
ISO is just another factor, like lens speed or Aperture.
ISO 100 allows for the least amount of noise, but requires the most exposure.
As you double ISO, the amount of exposure required halves.
But, at high ISO's - depending on the camera and your preference - there is more noise in the image.
Like everything it is a tradeoff.
I was out shooting birds in flight the other day, and bumped up the ISO to get a shorter shutter speed since I was handholding a monster lens.
11-16-2016 12:39 PM
[As you double ISO, the amount of exposure required halves.]
Something else I read about using the reciprocal of the ISO to determine the shutter speed.
[I was out shooting birds in flight the other day, and bumped up the ISO to get a shorter shutter speed since I was handholding a monster lens.]
Thanks for the input.
So much to keep track of unless you do it all of the time and it comes naturally.
Just finished reading a book about rodeo photographer Louise Serpa. The book title was one of her most often used quotes, "Don't Never Pay Attention"
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