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Moisture in lense

rockb
Contributor

Took a bunch of pictures the other day and many of them had spots in the pictures.  Took a look at the lense and there looks to be moisture in the lense. 

 

1.  Is there any way to fix this or is it shot?

 

2.  How would this happen?

 

IMG_9984.JPG

EOS 20D
13 REPLIES 13

TCampbell
Elite
Elite

Put the lens in a plastic zip-lock bag with dissicant packs in it.  

 

Dessicant packs absorb moisture out of the air... drying it so much that any moisture in the camera will be forced to evaporate (and ultimately will be absorbed by the dessicant packs.)

 

Once the packs absorb enough water they'll refuse to absorb more.  But many packs can be "recharged" (dried in an oven for several hours -- which forces the water back out of them so they can be used again.)  

 

 

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da

amfoto1
Authority

@rockb wrote:

Took a bunch of pictures the other day and many of them had spots in the pictures

 

 


However... The spots in your pictures almost certainly are unrelated to anything inside or on the lens.  What is in the lens or on its front or rear element will almost never show up in images... Those can increase flare and reduce resolution... But simply won't show up as "spots in the picture".

 

The spots you're seeing in your pictures are almost certainly caused by dust on the sensor. It needs a proper cleaning.

 

And, if you check the data for the pictures, I bet the spots show up most in the ones shot using a fairly small aperture such as f11, f16, f22. The smaller the aperture, the more clearly dust on sensor will show in images. Other images shot at f3.5, f4, f5.6 are less likely to show sensor dust or it will be more blurred down. Focal length matters, too.... With that lens you're more likely to see sensor spots at 28mm (normal to moderate wide, depending upon camera), than at 135mm (moderate telephoto).

 

A lot more info about sensor dust and how to clean the sensor can be found here: http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/

 

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

 





The option "Sensor Clean" is not listed in the menu (Neither are Custom Functions or Clear settings
EOS 20D

Which camera model is this?

 

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da

Canon recommends using a blower bulb, with the tip of the bulb held no further into the camera than the lens mount. This is described in the manual. The theory is that with bursts of air you can blow dust off the sensor.  The practice is somewhat different. Basically what you do is redistribute the dust inside the camera. If there's more dust on the sensor than around it, you'll probably end up with less dust on the sensor. However, this method can result in more dust on the sensor.

 

Any other method Canon will tell you not to try at home.  I'll repeat that. If you try other, or wet methods, you are on your own. If you get it wrong you will seriously regret doing it. You have been warned.

 

The dust isn't actually on the sensor itself. It's on the surface of a filter which is in front of the actual sensor itself.  This filter is very fragile and easily damaged.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@rockb wrote:
The option "Sensor Clean" is not listed in the menu (Neither are Custom Functions or Clear settings

Ah, a 20D. I had a couple 30D and had to clean their sensors fairly often (3 or 4 times a year), shooting a lot in dusty conditions.

 

Starting with 40D Canon has put "self-cleaning" sensors in their cameras. When you power the camera up, it runs a quick "ultrasonic" sensor vibration that "shakes" off dust. There's a slightly sticky strip alongside the sensor to "trap" specks of dust shaken off the sensor. That and improved coatings that reduce the ability of dust to adhere make the later models less prone to sensor dust problems But even they need cleaning occasionally.

 

I use cleaning methods such as are outlined at the link I provided above: bulb blower, wet cleaning, dry cleaning (brush & slighlty adhesive "lift off" tools), etc. A lighted magnifying loupe is very helpful, doing this. AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE using canned air or common cotton swabs inside any camera. Canned air is too strong a blast and can blow liquid propellant onto the sensor. Common cotton swabs (Q-tips) shed tiny, tough fibers that can get into and jam mechanisms such as a camera's shutter, resulting in costly repairs.

 

You will find a "sensor cleaning" mode in your 20D's menu. First you need a fully charged battery in the camera in order to be sure the camera will stay in this mode long enough to do the cleaning. You don't want it shutting down mid-cleaning, risking the shutter closing onto any cleaning tool you're using.

 

If the camera has never had its sensor cleaned, it almost certainly will need a "wet cleaning" to remove adhered dust and oils from the sensor. Ebiggs is 100% correct... You actually are cleaning a filter that sits directly in front of the sensor itself and this cleaning must be done properly with the right tools. If you are at all uncertain of your skill and abilities doing it, might be better left to a pro at a camera shop. Read everything at the above link and decide if you want to invest in the proper tools and learn to do the cleanings yourself, at your own risk... Or if you would be better taking it to a shop or sending the camera to Canon Service Dept. and paying a bit for them to clean it. (Without the cost of shipping, if needed, a single, simple, professional cleaning usually costs about 1/3 to1/4 what it would cost to buy the tools and supplies to do it yourself. In other words, after having it cleaned professionally 3 or 4 times, in terms of cost alone you might have been better off buying the stuff and learning to do it yourself.)

 

After cleaning use common sense... Change lenses in as dust free conditions as possible. And when lenses are off the camera, keep the rear lens cap and camera body caps on. Keep those clean, too.

 

Finally, any specks of dust seen through your camera's viewfinder are just on the mirror or the focus screen, and will not show up in your images (at the instant of exposure the mirror is momentarily lifted, covering the focus screen, before the shutter opens). There's some very slight chance that dust on mirror or focus screen might migrate around and eventually find it's way past the shutter onto the sensor. But it's mostly just a minor nuisance so you should never try cleaning the mirror or focus screen yourself, with anything more agressive than a puff of air from a bulb blower. Both the mirror and the focus screen are easily damaged. So leave any more intensive cleaning of those to the pros, to avoid costly repairs.

 

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

 






@amfoto1 wrote:


And, if you check the data for the pictures, I bet the spots show up most in the ones shot using a fairly small aperture such as f11, f16, f22. The smaller the aperture, the more clearly dust on sensor will show in images. Other images shot at f3.5, f4, f5.6 are less likely to show sensor dust or it will be more blurred down. Focal length matters, too.... With that lens you're more likely to see sensor spots at 28mm (normal to moderate wide, depending upon camera), than at 135mm (moderate telephoto).

 

Maybe it's just my witlessness, but I don't see why any of that should be true. If the spots are on the sensor, their image doesn't pass through the lens, so how do the aperture setting and focal length affect it in any way? I'd expect the spots on the sensor to be in focus, even if no image at all were being projected by the lens. What am I missing?

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA


@RobertTheFat wrote:

@amfoto1 wrote:


And, if you check the data for the pictures, I bet the spots show up most in the ones shot using a fairly small aperture such as f11, f16, f22. The smaller the aperture, the more clearly dust on sensor will show in images. Other images shot at f3.5, f4, f5.6 are less likely to show sensor dust or it will be more blurred down. Focal length matters, too.... With that lens you're more likely to see sensor spots at 28mm (normal to moderate wide, depending upon camera), than at 135mm (moderate telephoto).

 

Maybe it's just my witlessness, but I don't see why any of that should be true. If the spots are on the sensor, their image doesn't pass through the lens, so how do the aperture setting and focal length affect it in any way? I'd expect the spots on the sensor to be in focus, even if no image at all were being projected by the lens. What am I missing?


You know, I honestly don't know why it occurs... I just know that it does.

 

If you put a wide angle lens on your camera, set it to f/22, and take a shot of a plain subject such as the blue sky or a white wall, some specks of dust will almost always show up in your images.

 

OTOH, if you put a moderate telephoto lens on your camera and use it at f/2 or f/2.8, taking a shot of the same plain subject, you usually won't see any dust specks at all. Or, if you do, they will be extremely out of focus "blobs". 

 

The aperture used actually makes more difference than the focal length, though both play some part. Maybe someone else can tell us both why this happens.

 

But there's another good reason to avoid super small apertures anyway... diffraction. On an APS-C camera, assuming an 8x10 print, diffraction starts to "rob" fine detail when smaller than about f/7.1 aperture is used. On a full frame camera, making the same 8x10, diffaction starts to have an effect beyond about f/10. The reason for the difference in formats is simply because to make that 8x10 the full frame image is less magnified than the crop sensor image. The FF image is enlarged roughly 8X, while the APS-C is enlarged about 13X.

 

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Alan Myers is absolutely correct, again, about the dust showing up worse at smaller apertures.

When the lens is stopped down to say f16, f11, etc, the light rays coming from the lens are more perpendicular to the sensor. Because the angle (AOA) is straighter.  The dust specks can cast a direct shadow on the sensor.  The specks will become more fuzzy and may disappear altogether at f1.4, f1.2 or even f2.  Now you know why dust show up in your photos with smaller apertures.

 

"Maybe it's just my witlessness, ..."

 

Witlessness?  Is that a word?  OK!  Smiley Very Happy

 

BTW, remember the dust is not actually on the sensor.  It is on the filter that is in front of the sensor.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!
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