That's what I do all summer long. Just shot a big Gas Turbine Jet event last week & am still processing photos. Key things to learn are to expose for the aircraft & not the sky so knowing how to use exposure compensation is VERY important. In most cases you want to use Tv mode for prop blur or rotor blur but you can sometimes get by using sport mode. The other key thing is to remember to switch back to the correct setting for whatever is going to fly after changing to a different setting.
Recommended shutter speeds are prop planes 1/800 & lower (start high & work your way down during the day if you're getting good results) to as low as 1/400 with no real need to go lower because the model engines rev much higher than full scale aircraft. Heli rotors are slow (around 1800 RPM) so the max should be 1/400 but no higher & preferably 1/320 or slower. Easy to do in a hover but near impossible during a 3D demo. Jets 1/1000 to 1/2000 & remember to lower it after the jet lands. Use AI Servo, drive set to High, All points against the sky BUT (I think I remember you saying you bought a 7D2) assign expanded center points to a button on the back & use that for take offs & landings. My 7D2 will switch from the aircraft to things in the background, tall grass etc when there's more than just a plane against the sky.
Also from memory you don't have a long lens so stick to things near the flight line vs far out. There is usually lots of activity along the flight line with high & low speed low passes or maybe some 3D aerobatics. If you eventually start shopping for a long lens I'm very happy to declare that the Sigma 150-600 C has been amazing this summer & was able to keep up with all the high speed passes at last weeks event, including some in the 300 MPH range. I used it on both my 7D2 & 1D4
