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Rebel T7 lenses for ice hockey

Hockeyfam40
Apprentice

Hello,

I am learning my new Rebel T7 camera and it came with a 18-55mm lens and a 75-300mm 1:4 - 5.6 lens. These came in the bundle with the camera.

We are trying to capture my son playing ice hockey. So it would be indoors and well lit. It’s fast paced so we are interested in getting another lens to help take better photos. Not trying to break the bank, so something that is affordable. $500-$800 range.

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

Accepted Solutions

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

"Rebel T7 camera and it came with a 18-55mm lens and a 75-300mm 1:4 - 5.6 lens."

You might have well guessed or were aware of the fact these are entry level or beginner level photography gear. The kit is designed for the average person to use under reasonable conditions. Moms or fathers that want great photos of general stuff like their kids, dogs, vacations, etc.  And, for that purpose it works very well. An indoor hockey game does not fall into that category though since it presents some special challenges. Fast action and low light levels for instance.

 

First, I would go to a game or two and use your gear and see what it is doing for you and not doing. To jump blindly into recommending a new lens is not a good idea and could possibly be incorrect and lead you in the wrong direction.

My guess is you'll discover your lenses are too slow but who knows without seeing the conditions of your arena. I will repeat this get DPP4 form the Canon web site remember it is free. And, also once again, Set a high to very high ISO number 1600, 3200 and even 6400. To start use P mode do not use any 'Creative mode" like "Sports" mode. You might also try Av mode where you set a fixed aperture and let the camera do the SS for you automatically. Use One shot not AF assist or other servo mode. Always set the file to raw and use DPP4 to u/l to your computer.

Once you try come back and let everyone know how it went. The a lens recommendation can be made.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

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10 REPLIES 10

shadowsports
Legend
Legend

Greetings,

In order for us to make good recommendations, can you please provide an actual budget.  $$$

~Rick
Bay Area - CA


~R5 C (1.0.9.1), ~R50v (1.1.1) ~RF Trinity, ~RF 100 Macro, ~RF 100~400, ~RF 100~500, ~RF 200-800 +RF 1.4x TC, BG-R10, 430EX III-RT ~DxO PhotoLab Elite ~DaVinci Resolve Studio ~ImageClass MF644Cdw/MF656Cdw ~Pixel 8 ~CarePaks Are Worth It

kvbarkley
VIP
VIP

How close are you to the action? Are the images from the 75 to 300 zoomed in enough?

what mode are you shooting in?

Generally speaking right on the glass. So maybe 100’ away at most when the action is on the other end, but probably 20’-30’ when I on the same side. Sometimes I am not zooming in because the image fills the area. Mostly shooting in manual mode. I’m still learning what they mean, but I have the aperture as low as possible, which is 4.0 on this lens. I use a fast shutter speed and iso around 800-1600.

Probably under $250. If that is even possible. We didn’t buy the most expensive camera, so trying to keep it budget friendly.

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

Here are the three most important things shooting sporting events. 1< location, 2> location and 3> you guessed it, location where you shoot from. Seriously, the second most important thing is know your sport. Knowing what is going on so you can anticipate what will happen next is hugely helpful. Guessing in photography lowers your success rate by a lot. On to number three, go d/l DPP4 form Canon and use it to convert and transfer your images to your computer and always, always shoot raw file and never use jpg. The things I just recommended are free they won't cost you a dime. Nice to save a dime or two these days!

My favorite and often repeated quote is, "The lens you have is always better than the lens you wish you had."

Set a high to very high ISO number 1600, 3200 and even 6400. Use One shot not AF assist or other servo mode. Always set the file to raw and use DPP4 to u/l to your computer.

No other camera setting beyond good focus is necessary but DPP4 will use those settings for the conversion to your computer, it is automatic and seamless so don't worry about that. However, you can set the white balance to daylight or night or cloudy or set it to Auto and forget it. You can also set a Picture Style or whatever setting you want but keep in mind raw does not save or use those settings, except for the conversion, you will set them yourself in your computer in DPP4.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

"Rebel T7 camera and it came with a 18-55mm lens and a 75-300mm 1:4 - 5.6 lens."

You might have well guessed or were aware of the fact these are entry level or beginner level photography gear. The kit is designed for the average person to use under reasonable conditions. Moms or fathers that want great photos of general stuff like their kids, dogs, vacations, etc.  And, for that purpose it works very well. An indoor hockey game does not fall into that category though since it presents some special challenges. Fast action and low light levels for instance.

 

First, I would go to a game or two and use your gear and see what it is doing for you and not doing. To jump blindly into recommending a new lens is not a good idea and could possibly be incorrect and lead you in the wrong direction.

My guess is you'll discover your lenses are too slow but who knows without seeing the conditions of your arena. I will repeat this get DPP4 form the Canon web site remember it is free. And, also once again, Set a high to very high ISO number 1600, 3200 and even 6400. To start use P mode do not use any 'Creative mode" like "Sports" mode. You might also try Av mode where you set a fixed aperture and let the camera do the SS for you automatically. Use One shot not AF assist or other servo mode. Always set the file to raw and use DPP4 to u/l to your computer.

Once you try come back and let everyone know how it went. The a lens recommendation can be made.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

"Probably under $250. If that is even possible."

Now we both know that is not going to happen but what I suggested is free so try it first.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

I agree with Ernie that there is nothing in your price range that is going to be significantly better than the 75-300 you have because you are within its focal length range, particularly with the APS-C size sensor in your T7.

The major question is illumination because what looks bright to us is often still "lower light" for cameras when shooting sports.  I just shot the state round of HS volleyball at a very nice university arena but even with f2.8 lenses the correct exposure ISO was between 1600 and 2500 depending upon the exact spot on the arena floor using 1/1000 shutter speed.  For almost every sport, I shoot in manual mode with ISO set to auto to complete the exposure triangle and this works very well BUT for hockey you would either have to set your light metering to spot or set the ISO to fixed and make minor exposure adjustments in post.  At least for starting out learning to shoot hockey, I would check the needed ISO during pre-game warmup and fix it at that level rather than having auto ISO tied to the focus point because it will be too easy for it to horribly underexpose since the reflection off the ice will result in severe underexposure of the players.  Zoom in on a player during warmup with ISO in auto, note the value if the exposure looks correct upon review, and set that as your fixed ISO value.  The lighting should be close enough to even across the rink that you can correct in post (shoot in RAW as Ernie instructed and then in DPP you can correct for fairly significant illumination differences and the actual variance from optimal should be well within the adjustment range available in post).

A significant difference between your T7 and lens from a high performance sports camera body and lens is the focus acquisition speed.  It will focus quickly enough IF you anticipate the action and give the combo a decent chance to acquire focus. 

The one sport I really don't like to shoot is volleyball because it isn't a sport that is easy to "predict" like football, basketball, etc. so I lean a lot harder on camera performance with this sport and I always say a special thanks to the magical elves at Canon every time I finish shooting volleyball because the extreme responsive AF case III of the 1DX III and the fast focus performance of the 70-200 f2.8 and 300 f2.8 prime lens allow the camera to compensate for the photographer.  You and the camera are always partners in a system and in some cases the camera relies more upon your knowledge and ability while in other cases you can lean into the capabilities of Canon's technology with their advanced bodies.  Hockey is fast but nothing like volleyball so you should be able to acquire some nice photos and as Ernie advised, shoot a couple of games before looking at different gear.  I would strongly advise checking with the coach to see if you can shoot one of their practice sessions which will give you the opportunity to try different settings without the pressure of trying to capture action in the actual competition.

Rodger

EOS 1DX M3, 1DX M2, 1DX, 5DS R, M6 Mark II, 1D M2, EOS 650 (film), many lenses, XF400 video

Tintype_18
Authority
Authority

I have the same kit. Look at the various settings and take lot of photos. Evaluate the photos as to the best ones and the relevant settings. Two grandkids run cross country. I have set the speed to experiment. Caught one with both feet off the ground. Experiment as digital has loads of photos on a card. Have fun while doing it.

John
Canon EOS T7; EF-S 18-55mm IS; EF 28-135mm IS; EF 75-300mm; Sigma 150-600mm DG
Holiday
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