photos with flash way too dark

[FTG]

Hi, I got a Rebel T6s and have serious issues with flash photos in low light conditions. I use two differents lenses (kit lens 18-135STM and prime lens 50mm 1.8 STM). EXIF data shows me that flash has been fired, but the picture is completely dark. I have no idea what to do. I shoot the same image with the same adjustments several times and sometimes the flash fires correctly but most of the time does not. Anybody any idea? I was using a Lumix 4/3rd with Olympus lenses before and never had a any problem with that.

Every help is greatly appreciated. I uploaded an example image.

[TTMartin]

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@FTG wrote:

Hi, I got a Rebel T6s and have serious issues with flash photos in low light conditions. I use two differents lenses (kit lens 18-135STM and prime lens 50mm 1.8 STM). EXIF data shows me that flash has been fired, but the picture is completely dark. I have no idea what to do. I shoot the same image with the same adjustments several times and sometimes the flash fires correctly but most of the time does not. Anybody any idea? I was using a Lumix 4/3rd with Olympus lenses before and never had a any problem with that.

Every help is greatly appreciated. I uploaded an example image.

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Try taking the same photo in 'Green Square' Auto Mode and see if it comes out.

There are lots of things that impact exposure in general and exposure with a flash.

Things to keep in mind your on camera flash can have a range of only a few feet depending on the ISO and aperture settings.

Your metering mode can substantially impact proper exposure (stick to evaluative metering).

Canon has flash metering and exposure compensation that is independent of the cameras metering and exposure compensation, so be sure you check both of those settings. 

That's just a starting point of things to look at.

[ebiggs1]

Are you sure the flash 'actually' fired?  That sample photo doesn't look like it did.

[Waddizzle]

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@ebiggs1 wrote:

Are you sure the flash 'actually' fired?  That sample photo doesn't look like it did.

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Despite what the EXIF data shows, I wondered the same thing.  The balloons seem to be reflecting overhead light fixtures, but nothing from the camera flash. 

I wonder if the internal flash was fully charged.  Light flicker from the articial lighting may have fooled the camera, too.  It's also interesting how the background seems perfectly exposed, and not well focused.  Makes me wonder which shooting mode the camera was set for and where did it lock focus.

[Waddizzle]

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@Waddizzle wrote:

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@ebiggs1 wrote:

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Despite what the EXIF data shows, I wondered the same thing.  The balloons seem to be reflecting overhead light fixtures, but nothing from the camera flash. 

I wonder if the internal flash was fully charged.  Light flicker from the articial lighting may have fooled the camera, too.  It's also interesting how the background seems perfectly exposed, and not well focused.  Makes me wonder which shooting mode the camera was set for and where did it lock focus.

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I take that back.  I think I might see the camera's flash on the orange ballon, towards the lower left and on one of them closest to the camera.  The one shot you posted where the flash fired is good example of how far [or how short] the internal flash can reach.  You must be using the 18-55mm camera kit lens, because most lenses are longer, and would cast a shadow from teh flash being fired.  In addition to being low powered, the built-in flash doesn't raise itself high enough to clear many lenses.

Your ambient lighting in the second pair of photos appears to be incandescent [WB=Tungsten], so that should probably rule out artificial light flicker fooling the camera into making an incorrect exposure.  Flourescent light flickers at line voltage frequencies.  Some solid state light sources flicker, too.

Another possiblity [or user error] that I have found all too easy to make is accidently locking the exposure settings, which can stay locked for several seconds, or much longer.  The [ * ] button at the top right can lock exposure, AEL/FEL if your thumb accidently presses it as you hold the camera.  Check the EXIF data to see if it reports FE Lock as ON or OFF.

If the flash works consistently when the camera is in Green [A}, Automatic, mode, then the camera is probably working just fine, and other circumstances are causing the inconsistent behavior.  Just remember to allow several seconds between shots for the flash to fully recharge, which you seemed to do.  That's what makes me question exposure lock or flash exposure lock..

[kvbarkley]

Do you have it set for wireless flash? It might be trying to control an external flash that is not there.

[FTG]

Thx. I left everything at factory settings and did a complete reset, so I don't think this is the problem.

[TTMartin]

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@FTG wrote:

Thx. I left everything at factory settings and did a complete reset, so I don't think this is the problem.

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Try taking photos in Green Square Auto mode. NOT Program mode. Green Square Auto will rule out it being camera settings.

FYI, there are up to 4 different places you need to reset to completely reset the camera. 

[Waddizzle]

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@FTG wrote:

Thx. I left everything at factory settings and did a complete reset, so I don't think this is the problem.

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Try using the flash in Automatic, Green [A], mode.  As noted, this mode disregards many camera settings, and determines its' own settings to use, instead.

Your EXIF data reports you are using Partial Metering.  Use Evaluative Metering mode when shooting handheld.  Your shutter speed when using the flash may occasionally be too slow.   So, set your Flash Sync Speed, which is found under the camera 1 menu, should be set to [1/200 - 1/60 sec. auto]

[RobertTheFat]

Canon's E-TTL algorithm takes the attitude that blown highlights are to be avoided at all cost, so that effectively all flash is fill flash. The effect is that only enough flash power (and duration) will be applied to make the brightest element in the picture look properly exposed. So the usual trick is to expose for the ambient light in the background and let the flash take care of the subject. That can work very well under normal lighting conditions, including backlit scenes outdoors, but of course it renders E-TTL flash nearly useless outdoors at night.

The obvious solution to this problem is "If you don't like it, don't use it." I.e. if E-TTL doesn't do the job, set the flash to manual exposure mode and the flash power to a level that gives you, as nearly as possible, the result you want. I believe that some (most? all?) E-TTL flash units have a mode you can set that will read the reflected light and shut the flash down automatically when the nearest object is correctly illuminated. That's the way the better flash units worked back in the film days, and it keeps you from having to worry about guide numbers and subject distance.

One other situation in which I've found that E-TTL does work well is with bounce flash. Because the light bouncing off the walls and ceiling lowers the contrast of the scene, it mitigates the downside of exposing for the highlights.