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T5i Continuous shooting setting

Transmanjoe
Contributor

When i enter the mode setting,and change to continuous mode seting,it works fine

When I turn off the camera,It reverts back to single shot

Is this the way it is,or can I lock it in some way?

Thanks

Joe

9 REPLIES 9

ScottyP
Authority
Mine has always stayed set. I had no idea it would reset.

What mode are you shooting in on the dial? It stays set in TV and Av for sure. Not sure about green box auto or P mode.
Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

Transmanjoe
Contributor

Hi Scott

Thank's for replying

Mine is in the green box mode(scene intel auto)

If this is the way it is,it won't be the end of the world.

But it would be nice if I could lock it in

Joe


@Transmanjoe wrote:

Hi Scott

Thank's for replying

Mine is in the green box mode(scene intel auto)

If this is the way it is,it won't be the end of the world.

But it would be nice if I could lock it in

Joe


Part of the point of the "green box" (full auto) mode is that it's designed to be somewhat foolproof to avoid someone changing settings and getting the camera into a state where it's configured to do strange things and they have no idea what they did or how to undo it.

 

SO... green-box (full auto) mode REALLY limits what you can change and it's not at all surprising that it immediately reverts back to "safe" settings as soon as you power it off.

 

If you use "Program" mode (P" on the dial) it will use the same exposure algorithms as full auto, but things will stay as you leave them (just remember what you do to the camera because it also wont make any attempt to undo what you did.)

 

If you learn to get out of auto mode and shoot either in manual -or- learn how to control the elements of the exosure using Av and Tv modes, you'll have much better control over the artistic nature of the exposure.  You'll be able to create deliberately shallow depth of field to have a tack-sharp subject and blurred background... or a sharp exposure from front to back... or freeze motion... or deliberately "blur" parts of an image to imply motion.

 

The two most frequently recommend resources to learn to do this are

(1) "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson

(2) the "Digital Photography" series of books by Scott Kelby (that's five volumes by now.)

 

 

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da

Transmanjoe
Contributor

I think I'm coming to the conclusion there are certain settings where continuous mode will stay set,

and other setting where it reverts back to single shot,and has to be reset to continuous

Joe

It definitely stays set in TV or AV modes. (Shutter priority or aperture priority).
Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

Take it as a sign it is time to leave the green box behind. TV and Av are not much more work at all, and they let you take more direct control of the images, and you don't have that oddness with the disappearing shooting modes.
Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

ezpop
Rising Star

Continous shooting setting will stay on in the Creative zone, including Program Mode, Shutter Priority Mode, Aperture Priority Mode, and Manual Mode. Sport mode will have burst mode.

Transmanjoe
Contributor

Hi Everybody

Thank's for all your replys

I'm 58, a Automatic Transmission Rebuilder by trade, and have always carried  a camera with me.

Most of my picture taking is at the drag strip

The camera I used last year was my Wife's Sony 380

On auto I got some decent picture's,the time or two I decided to leave auto didn't go so good

The funny car is one of my better pictures (on auto)

So I'm learning,one step at a time.

The reason I got the T5i from the A380, is the T5i has video,you can take a picture while  you are shooting video, and has a better burst mode,that I use for wheelstand's of the line.Also the A380 had a 18-55MM lens,The T5i has a 18-135 MM lens

Thanks

JoeAtco 2 040.JPG

The camera will tend to go for "safe" exposures in full-auto.  It follows something called the "program line".  In dark light the camera will maximize aperture so it can increase the shutter speed.  But once a safe shutter speed for the focal length is achieved, it'll start stopping-down aperture and increasing shutter speeed in equal amounts.  

 

In "program" mode it'll also follow the "program line" by picking an initial exposure identical to what it would have done in full-auto... except program mode allows you to override the exposure if you want on a per-shot basis.

 

In Av or Tv mode, you pick the aperture or shutter speed and the camera will set whatever you don't set.  

 

And then there's manual mode where you set everything.

 

For moving cars, I prefer Tv mode and I like to do "panning" shots.  This involves setting a moderately slow-ish shutter speed (e.g. perhaps 1/40th) and then following the car with the lens as it passes.  This results in a tack-sharp car... but the background has motion blur so that the "still" photo implies the sense of speed and motion.

 

Here's an example (although this car was moving so slowly that I had to dial the shutter speed down to 1/15th (hand held) to get the shot.

 

But to do these types of shots... you have to get out of full auto-mode.  The camera wont "know" that your'e trying to deliberate create a sense of motion and it's tendancy to pick "safe" exposures will end up with an exposure that isn't slow enough to allow the wheels and background to blur.  These do take some practice ... but get easier as you do more of them.

 

VO3A3059.jpg

 

VO3A3602.jpg

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da
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