SL1 Rebel 18-55 IS Lens focus problems

[amatula]

Hi,

I had problems with getting people in focus and I posted on that; the problem is also wtih landscape. Even when other photographers use my camera this happens.

In the attached image (non-modified other than to decrease the photo size), I used the following settings:

high quality image (L)

spot metering

ISO 100

F8

Speed: 200

Focused on the mountains

With image stabilization on

Auto focus on

I can provide other photos, but they are all the same basically; with not being able to get good image quality/focus.

I am hand holding the camera as I am hiking. I hike and take photos so I am not going to be carrying a tripod; I am using high speeds (over 100).

I did not have this issue with my SLR cameras.

I really need a camera where it is easier to have good focus images. Would a 3/4s be better or is there another model that would be better? If I lose a bit of image quality that is OK. But I want/need focus.

Thank you for any insight/suggestions you can offer.

[amatula]

"She doesn't have to throw money at her 'problem'. She just needs to develop her skills with the gear she has."

I am just questioning because even my people shots were not in the focus I thought they should be, even when a good distance (say 10 feet) from the subject.  So I am not understanding the issue. It was suggested I use f.8 so I have been doing that, but thinking of experimenting too.  But with my old Nikon SLR (which was heavier, btw) I did not have the focus issues.

So, I am confused a bit 😞

I do agree there is still much to learn!

Thank you for your help!

Annie

[TTMartin]

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amatula wrote:

"She doesn't have to throw money at her 'problem'. She just needs to develop her skills with the gear she has."

I am just questioning because even my people shots were not in the focus I thought they should be, even when a good distance (say 10 feet) from the subject.  So I am not understanding the issue.

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Watching these videos by Canon's Rudy Wilson (at least the first two), will be truly eye opening for you, and will do more for you than any purchase of new gear.

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 1

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 2

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 3

[RobertTheFat]

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@Waddizzle wrote:

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I have used the M3, with adapter, with the Canon "pancake" lenses with excellent results.  After buying it, however, I used with a Rokinon 14mm manual focus lens, and discovered the camera has focus peaking in its' LCD display.  ...

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It's summer, and I'm reminded that any feature that requires you to use the LCD display isn't much use on a really bright day.

[Waddizzle]

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@RobertTheFat wrote:

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@Waddizzle wrote:

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I have used the M3, with adapter, with the Canon "pancake" lenses with excellent results.  After buying it, however, I used with a Rokinon 14mm manual focus lens, and discovered the camera has focus peaking in its' LCD display.  ...

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It's summer, and I'm reminded that any feature that requires you to use the LCD display isn't much use on a really bright day.

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Which is why I took advantage of the package that offered the electronic viewfinder.  Like I said, I discovered the focus peaking after began using it.

[amatula]

Thank you,

So the sensor is bigger; thank you That answered the question I just posted. Then I don't understand the 1.6 vs.2.

Yes; I do enjoy wide angle photography since the majority of my phots are outdoors: landscape or people.

Wondering if the light weight is actually hurting vs. helping. As I mentioned in another post, I did find with another hiker's heavier Canon.

Agian, thank you so much for your help!

Annie

[Waddizzle]

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@amatula wrote:

JPEG

I am shooting using the curve L setting (highest resolution) The camera says: 5184 x3456 {5148]

Thank you,

So the sensor is bigger; thank you That answered the question I just posted. Then I don't understand the 1.6 vs.2.

Yes; I do enjoy wide angle photography since the majority of my phots are outdoors: landscape or people.

Wondering if the light weight is actually hurting vs. helping. As I mentioned in another post, I did find with another hiker's heavier Canon.

Agian, thank you so much for your help!

Annie

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Shooting as JPEG is the easiest way to take photos.  Shooting as RAW is the easiest way to edit photos.  When you shoot RAW Canon's DPP editor allows you access to more ways to edit the photos, including correcting for lens distortions, exposure errors, noise reduction, etc.

What does 1.6 vs. 2 mean?  That speaks directly about image size, [and angle of view].  Before DSLRs came along, we had SLR cameras that used rolls of 35mm film.  The SLR camera contained mechanisms to precisely advance the film, but more importantly the camera would expose a precise amount of area of film  

The size and shape of the exposed area is the exact size and shape of the image sensor in a "full frame" DSLR camera, which are some of the most expensive DSLRs on the market.  By making the sensor the same size asthe  area of film that would be exposed [in a 35mm film camera] allows compatibility with older lenses.   Because the sensor was large enough to fill the entire image circle projected by the lens, the sensors were described as "full frame".  But, such a large sensor is costly to produce, especially one with high resolution.

So, manufacturers began making smaller sensors that were proportionally smaller than a full frame sensor.  Once you use a smaller sensor in a camera, the lens projects an image circle that is much larger than the sensor.  The sensor only "sees" just the center portion of the entire image.  The net effect of this arrangement is that the smaller sensor will seem to be zoomed in on the image compared to a full frame sensor.  The amount of apparent zoom can be measured as a ratio, and is frequently described as an "equivalent 35mm focal length."

This ratio is often called "crop factor".  What does 1.6 vs 2 mean?  Those numbers are ratios that described the "crop factor" of the camera's sensor.  If I use a 50mm lens on a full frame camera, then I capture an image that has a "35mm equivalent focal length" of 50mm, where the term "35mm" is describing 35mm film.  If I use a camera with an APS-C sensor [1.6x crop factor] with that same 50mm lens, I will get an image that has a "35mm equivalent focal length" of 80mm, which reflects the apparent zoom [angle of view] that I referred to just above. 

While crop factor may sound like a good thing [free additional focal length, which wildlife photographers love], the smaller image sensors will frequently have smaller sensing elements [pixels] on their surfaces.  Smaller sensor elements means less light can be captured [per pixel], which means less contrast and detail.  Think of the individual sensing elements as a test tube.  The image sensor has thousands upon thousands of pixels [test tubes] arranged in neat rows across its' surface.  Instead of light falling on the sensor, imagine that it was rain falling on the rows of test tubes. 

The full frame image sensor has deeper [wider] test tubes, each of which can collect far more water before overflowing than the more shallow test tubes used on smaller sensors.  This is why images produced by full frame cameras can have more dynamic range [contrast] than APS-C sensors, or other types of smaller sensors.  It is also why you will typically get better performance in low light [conditions] with a full frame sensor.

[TTMartin]

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@amatula wrote:

So the sensor is bigger; thank you That answered the question I just posted. Then I don't understand the 1.6 vs.2.

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The larger the crop factor the smaller the sensor.

So a very tiny sensor in a point and shoot camera or cell phone will have a crop factor of around 6.

The reason you don't hear about crop factor on those cameras is they have a fixed lens, so they do the calculations for you and tell you what the equivelent full frame lens is. Look at the front of the lens of this Canon PowerShot ELPH 510 HS.

You can see that it actually has a 5.0mm-60mm lens. That camera has a crop factor of 5.6 X. But when you buy it, Canon does the calculations for you (5.6X5mm=28mm and 5.6X60mm=336mm) and tells you it is a 35mm film equivalent: 28 (W) - 336 (T) mm lens on the box. 

The crop factor is just the number the actual lens size has to be multiplied by to give you the 35mm equivalent. The smaller the sensor the more you have to multiply the actual lens size. So a 4/3 camera has a smaller sensor than your SL1, so you have to multiply it by a larger number (2X vs 1.6X).

[amatula]

Thank you, everyone!

I was also speaking to a friend of a friend. And he mentioned holding my camera in the palm of my hand to decrease camera shake. He also mentioned a cable or wireless release for it.

And I am going to demo some lens and see what a difference that makes.

And last, yes, I would love to learn Lightroom (and / or advanced Photoshop) if classes are offerred locally. I have been looking.

I appreciate everyone providing valuable input!

Annie

[jrhoffman75]

[Waddizzle]

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@amatula wrote:

Thank you, everyone!

I was also speaking to a friend of a friend. And he mentioned holding my camera in the palm of my hand to decrease camera shake. He also mentioned a cable or wireless release for it.

And I am going to demo some lens and see what a difference that makes.

And last, yes, I would love to learn Lightroom (and / or advanced Photoshop) if classes are offerred locally. I have been looking.

I appreciate everyone providing valuable input!

Annie

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A release cable is pretty useless without a tripod.  In fact, the built-in shutter timer serves the purpose for me.

If you have used Canon's Digital Photo Professional, then Lightroom is FAR more flexible and powerful version of that program.  I invested in it primarily for lens correction on non-Canon lenses.

I think Photoshop requires a bit more artistic talent than Lightroom.  If you want to "repair" or "create" images, then PS is probably the program to use.  I have both.  I only use PS to "fix" an image, like removing something unwanted from image.