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Need advise on how to set up manual

I’ve had a t6i Rebel for a few years now, and I own 3 lenses but don’t feel like I’m getting the most out of my camera. My photos seems to always be blurry when I zoom into them. How can I fix this? Can anyone recommend numbers for the settings I can set to???


That is not exactly how photography works.  There isn't any "recommended set of numbers of the settings" that will give you sharp photos.  The next best thing, however, are the Automatic settings in the Basic Shooting modes.  Let the camera figure it out.  But, that takes all of the fun out of it, and usually results in so-so looking pictures.


Without knowing what it is you are doing now, there is no way I can advise you on what to do in the future.  Without knowing what lenses you are currently using it, it is hard to advise you on how to use them.  Maybe you need a better lens.  Maybe you need to stop zooming in real far into photos and peeping at the individual pixels, because that never looks good.


Maybe you need to brush up on the basics.  Check out the link in the first post in this thread. 


It links to the CanonUSA YouTube channel.  They published an "EOS 101" series of 13 short videos, which teach you the basics of photography.  You will want to set you camera up on a tripod next to you when you watch them.  You may also want to watch them more than once, too.  There is a lot of good info to absorb.

"The right mouse button is your friend."


Can you post one of these images? How far are you zooming in?

Watch this tutorial a couple of times to get the idea how it all ties together. It's not long & should help a lot.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Another good, free tutorial course is available on YouTube HERE for the beginner is by National Geographic Photographer Australian Chris Bray.  He covers the whole subject, broken into topics one can view in bite-sized chunks.

cheers, TREVOR

Before you ask us, have you looked in the manual or on the Canon Support Site?
"All the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

I have a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM Lens, Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Telephoto Zoom Lens, and the lens that comes with it

@ersaen5195 wrote:
I have a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM Lens, Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Telephoto Zoom Lens, and the lens that comes with it

The first lens is an excellent unit and should render super sharp images.  The75-300 lens is aruably one of Canon's worst efforts and to my knowledge does not have image stabilization, something I would expect of a zoom of this range, you would probably get better results by using the 70-200 and cropping...


I assume you mean by "the lens that comes with it" the EF-S 18-55 kit lens?  There is an alternative kit lens, the excellent EF-S 18-135 IS STM lens.


I would strongly encourage you to explore the links provided by responders and perhaps consider joining a local camera club or society.  If you are serious, consider taking a course if one is locally available.

cheers, TREVOR

Before you ask us, have you looked in the manual or on the Canon Support Site?
"All the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

Yep! The lens makes a BIG difference in photo quality. I have a Rebel SL2 kit from Costco. It came with 18-55mm f4-5.6 IS STM, 75-300mm F4-5.6 II, and 50mm f1.8 STM lenses. I purchased an EF-S18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM lens a few months later. Even tripod-mounted and with the same exact camera settings, the 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM lens takes MUCH better quality photos than the other lenses.

in Davie, FL

Just for starters, using your 200mm lens the shutter speed should remain above 1/350 second and more is better. Using the

300mm it has to be above 1/500.  Now these are basic starting points for sure.  Everything in photography is conditional.


Sometimes it may be difficult to maintain a high enough ISO to use the 75-300mm unless lighting is ideal.  The result is a blurry photo. Since you have the best zoom lens made, I would abandon the 75-300mm. Sell it for what you can and move on.


Basically two things control blurry images.  The lens and you.  The camera plays a very small role in this.  It is nothing more than a device to capture what the lens saw and what you told the lens to see.


Samples would be good!

EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and several lenses!

Agree with Ernie that since you have the excellent 70-200 f2.8, the 75-300 isn't what you want to use.  If you feel the need for a little more focal length, then the 70-200 with a 1.4X is still preferable to the 75-300 because the bare 70-200 is so sharp and the degradation that occurs with the extender is so minimal that it still produces great quality.


My usual hiking setup has long been a 24-70 f2.8, 70-200 f2.8, and the 1.4X.


Pay attention to the shutter speed as Ernie advised and also PRACTICE releasing the shutter without shaking the camera.  Standard assists include bracing your body or the camera against an available object to help you keep it steady.  Most of the time I am shooting fast action with fast shutter speeds so camera shake isn't a concern but on those occasions where I am pushing the shutter speed, light, focal length, and ISO combination then I will briefly hold my breath in the moments before I press the shutter release.  You may find a combination of mirror lockup, silent shutter mode, and delayed shutter release MAY be helpful to you under some very trying lighting conditions.  Since "developing" is free with digital, experiment to find the method that works best for you and then practice that method to perfect your holding/capture technique.


A really common mistake for new and old photographers alike is to get so excited at the possibility of capturing a unique moment that excess haste ends up spoiling that moment with motion blur, a horribly wrong exposure, and/or framing such that a key part of the scene is missing. We all miss fleeting opportunities and I would rather miss it entirely than end up with a mediocre image of what could have been a great scene.


One lesson I learned early in sports photography is that if you are too slow in setting up a key action shot, you aren't going to capture it and at that point the best move is to get a good capture of the result and remainder of the play instead of staying a step behind the entire sequence because of being "focused" on something that already happened.



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