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How do I save an image from Photoshop so I can transfer it back to the 70D?

AlKoch
Contributor

How do I save an image from Photoshop so I can transfer it back to the 70D?

I am trying to use Photoshop to modify a picture I took with the 70D and then transfer that modified picture back to the 70D.  I am using ImageBrowser Ex and the problem is that when I select that modified image and try to Transfer it, ImageBrowser Ex tells me that "A still image that cannot be displayed on the camera has been selected."

I have simplified the problem by just opening the original image file and immediately saving it to a new file without changing anything but even that "unmodified" file fails.  Apparently, Photoshop is changing something when it does the Saves As but I can't see what the problem is.

Note that I have also tried just using Windows to manually copy the Save As file to the memory card but the picture doesn't appear in the "Picture Preview" when I put the card back in the EOS 70D.  This also happens if I copy the original image file to the card.  I suspect the problem is that the EOS 70D has some sort of "file index" that isn't updated with info about these files if they are just manually copied to the card.

Can someone please tell me how to Save As out of Photoshop so I can transfer the new file back to the 70D using ImageBrowser Ex?

Thank you.

23 REPLIES 23

Well the fact of the matter is that IF one takes the time to add the authors name or copyright info to the field provided in the menu system that's a good place to start. Again I add my email address there too to simplify things but I'm more concerned about loosing a card full of photos than my camera. A thief won't care how many ways you've added your info because they have no interest in returning it. Cameras do however get forgotten on busses, in taxis etc. so it's never a bad idea to try to help a finder with contact info.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."


@cicopo wrote:

Well the fact of the matter is that IF one takes the time to add the authors name or copyright info to the field provided in the menu system that's a good place to start. Again I add my email address there too to simplify things but I'm more concerned about loosing a card full of photos than my camera. A thief won't care how many ways you've added your info because they have no interest in returning it. Cameras do however get forgotten on busses, in taxis etc. so it's never a bad idea to try to help a finder with contact info.


You're right about the name and copyright notice, of course. But it gets back to Scott's point that the finder needs a fairly sophisticated understanding of modern cameras to know where to look. Incorporating the contact information into a picture is a good deal more straightforward.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

Thank you to everyone who replied. I appreciate all the suggestions for alternative ways to get an “ID” on my camera. I can see now that I made a mistake by using the “ID” as my reason for needing to transfer an image file back to the camera because it got everyone thinking in the wrong direction. I have additional reasons for needing to transfer a modified photo image back to the camera. (For those of you who insist on knowing my reason, I take photos for a client, upload them to Photoshop and make changes and then I need to show the changed photos to the client and then take new pictures. The easiest way to do this is to transfer the modified photos back to the camera and then use the camera’s HDMI output to display the before and after pictures at the client site on a TV screen).

 

So, returning to my original question can anybody help me understand why I am no longer able to transfer an image that has been saved out of Photoshop back to the camera? As I said in my initial post, I know this can be done because I did it in the beginning but my notes have been lost.

 

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you.

I am going to "guess" that in order for this feature to work, at a minimum the image would probably have to be stored in JPEG format (don't save it as a .psd, .tif/.tiff, or anything that the camera will not natively recognize.  The camera only recognizes .CR2 (which is only a valid input format for Photoshop... not an output format) and JPEG.  That leaves you with JPEG (a ".JPG" file) being the only possible choice.

 

Additionally... I have heard that images shot and stored on a card in one camera, then transferred to another Canon camera (but a different model) and will not display.  This MAY (but I'm not certain) be due to different resolutions.  In other words, the JPG file may have to be stored in the same resolution that the camera used.

 

 

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da


@TCampbell wrote:

I am going to "guess" that in order for this feature to work, at a minimum the image would probably have to be stored in JPEG format (don't save it as a .psd, .tif/.tiff, or anything that the camera will not natively recognize.  The camera only recognizes .CR2 (which is only a valid input format for Photoshop... not an output format) and JPEG.  That leaves you with JPEG (a ".JPG" file) being the only possible choice.

 

Additionally... I have heard that images shot and stored on a card in one camera, then transferred to another Canon camera (but a different model) and will not display.  This MAY (but I'm not certain) be due to different resolutions.  In other words, the JPG file may have to be stored in the same resolution that the camera used.

 


I suspect that Tim is on the right track, but with a fairly wide range of possibilities in the details. For example, Photoshop, whatever other changes it makes, is probably adding to the Exif data, and it may be that the camera is confused by any Exif additions that it couldn't have made itself. In any case, maybe you should pose the question in an Adobe forum if you haven't already.

 

But I'm a bit confused by the nature of the requirement. If I were doing what you're doing, I'd take along a decent laptop or a high-resolution tablet (like a Surface Pro 3) to show my proofs to the client. The way you're doing it seems amateurish, to say the least. If you're going to do a job professionally, you need to be professionally equipped. And by your own account, you're not.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA


@TCampbell wrote:

I am going to "guess" that in order for this feature to work, at a minimum the image would probably have to be stored in JPEG format (don't save it as a .psd, .tif/.tiff, or anything that the camera will not natively recognize.  The camera only recognizes .CR2 (which is only a valid input format for Photoshop... not an output format) and JPEG.  That leaves you with JPEG (a ".JPG" file) being the only possible choice.

 

Additionally... I have heard that images shot and stored on a card in one camera, then transferred to another Canon camera (but a different model) and will not display.  This MAY (but I'm not certain) be due to different resolutions.  In other words, the JPG file may have to be stored in the same resolution that the camera used.

 

 


You might be on to something here with resolution.  Here's some food for thought.

 

I went through a similar exercise with my T5, some cropped photos, and later on with some white balance photos.  When I first got the camera, the only image editor I had was PaintDotNet.  Similarly, I wanted to crop some photos and load them back into the camera.  The camera could not find them, nor would it not show them. 

 

I had similar issues with some white balance photos I had.  I had taken pictures of some "white" surfaces, and cleaned up the smudges on the surfaces using PDN.  I was trying to reload photos back into the camera that had different aspect ratios and resolutions than what the camera could produce.

 

I used my CAD software to import the images, and then exported them at the exact pixel resolution as what the camera produced.  Now the camera could find and display them without any issues.  I had initially cropped the photos to save memory space, but  not anymore.  Now I carry a tablet to show pictures to people.

--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

What about posting the photos somewhere on the web and then just accessing with your smart phone to show people?  Bigger screen, smaller and liter than the camera, and the process is not so fiddley.

 

Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?


@AlKoch wrote:

Thank you to everyone who replied. I appreciate all the suggestions for alternative ways to get an “ID” on my camera. I can see now that I made a mistake by using the “ID” as my reason for needing to transfer an image file back to the camera because it got everyone thinking in the wrong direction. I have additional reasons for needing to transfer a modified photo image back to the camera. (For those of you who insist on knowing my reason, I take photos for a client, upload them to Photoshop and make changes and then I need to show the changed photos to the client and then take new pictures. The easiest way to do this is to transfer the modified photos back to the camera and then use the camera’s HDMI output to display the before and after pictures at the client site on a TV screen).

 

So, returning to my original question can anybody help me understand why I am no longer able to transfer an image that has been saved out of Photoshop back to the camera? As I said in my initial post, I know this can be done because I did it in the beginning but my notes have been lost.

 

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you.


 

Put the SD card in your card reader on the computer. Copy the .JPG you want on the camera from your computer into the most recent subfolder under DCIM folder. Path should be some thing like EOS_DIGITAL ( E: ) > DCIM > 100CANON

Hi TTMartin,

 

I tried this and it does not work.  You can refer to my original post for details.

 

Thank you.

 


@RobertTheFat wrote:

@ScottyP wrote:

I know my parents, for one example, though very honest and of the best intentions, would never ever be able to return your camera if they were expected to read it off the memory card due to the fact they couldn't figure that out.


 

 

Seriously, though, looking at the pictures is a traditional way of trying to find the owner of a lost camera. That goes back even to the film days, when the finder had to get the film developed.

 

 


How many people really  did that on FILM?  Not only would it require your Good Samaritan to be dedicated enough to develop your film, but it would also require you to take a photo of your ID on every roll of film.  Makes that luggage tag look awful good, anyway.  😉

Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?
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