@Ceddy wrote to FloridaDrafter: "Ok, I am very amateur in the photography world- so all of that is totally greek to me, so I will do what I can. Can you see the picture at all that I uploaded? I was able to re-size the photo."
Yes, we can see your image but a Raw file would be more helpful. There are sites that allow you to upload and share Raw files. The reason to share your Raw is so that we can get a better idea of what your settings were and to see it before editing and resizing. Turning your image into a JPG file to edit or resize can take a toll on quality and, in some cases, introduce noise or grain.
@Ceddy wrote to FloridaDrafter: "Thank you for the encouraging words, however, maybe I will need to add a different example. I am thinking maybe Shadowsports addressed my concern also by stating that I am set at 1/1600th on a static object. Should I not be doing that?"
Yes, different examples would help, preferably several shots with differing lighting and/or environmental conditions that you find troubling.
As for shutter speed being a problem, I guess it's possible, but IMO, for perched it is more unnecessary than a problem. I typically stay between 1/600th - 1/1000th, depending on the lighting and how much the bird is moving, like preening or looking around while foraging. It may cause a problem when shooting in the "creative" mode, Tv when letting ISO float (Auto ISO) because shutter speed will have a direct effect on the other 2 legs of the exposure triangle, but I noticed that you are shooting Manual Exposure mode (M), which I don't recommend as a beginner. I do up my shutter when shooting Birds In Flight (BIF), but even that depends on what effect I am after, for example, sometimes I don't want the bird to look "frozen" and prefer a bit of motion blur on the wing tips. It helps convey motion even though it's a flying bird ("The mind is a terrible thing", LOL!) Since it's wings are moving way faster than the birds body, the body will be sharp even if the wings blur.
@Ceddywrote to FloridaDrafter: "Should I not be using those settings together? Is OP mean operator? I am so NEW at this!!!! Thanks for your input and time!"
You are welcome!
Many of us use those combinations, just not all the time. Take note of the custom functions (C1, C2, and C3) on your functions dial. As the name implies, you can configure your cameras "still" shooting parameters and store up to 3 of them there. I store the settings that I use for H1 continuous, tracking, servo, eye detect, etc. in C1 and single shooting with the fine focus point, for peeking through branches an leaves, as my main setup (no custom function).
OP stands for "Original Post" or the thread starter 🙂
Another tip that I would like to pass along is a setting that may help you with exposure. It's called "Exposure simulation", except in the R7 it's referred to as "Display simulation". When enabled it will give you a very close approximation of your exposure. A good explanation is in your users manual on page 308. Meanwhile, press the Menu button and navigate to the Shooting 9 tab (Red camera, tab 9) and select "Display simulation", then select "Exposure"
Sorry if I have been a little too detailed, I do understand that you are a beginner. I just hope I haven't overwhelmed you with info... Feel free to ask away as there are many many fine folks on this forum!
Newton
