@Cindy-Clicks wrote:
Ok, so I guess there is not much I can do other that having to adjust my shooting style to accomodate this camera. I have noticed that if I put it in any other program mode besides manual or apeture priority, it tends to always pick 2.8 for an apeture setting, which means a very narrow DoF. Funny how that did not seem to happen when I used my other camera.
If it did not happen with the other camera then you had more light. The camera meters the available light and works within the constraints you set when you use a semi-automatic mode such as Tv or Av mode. If you use Av mode then the camera will determine the shutter speed based on the meter reading. If you use Tv mode then the camera picks the aperture for you -- again based on metering. It can also boost ISO to compensate if you selected auto ISO (you can set a max ISO that it is not permitted to exceed) but if you pick a specific ISO then the only thing it can change is the aperture. The cameras likely meter the same given the same metering mode but you can choose evaluative, center-weighted, or spot metering.
But I am just going to trust that this will be a good camera and lens for both macro and portrait. I am always looking for the most bang for my buck and don't feel comfortable spending a lot of money on something that is so specialized in its use. I guess that is why I liked my old setup. I could take it and shoot almost any situation. I like to shoot anything and everything. I resist falling into a niche. I suppose that is why the camera store people had trouble steering me toward any particular camera.
The T3i is a generic camera in that it doesn't have optimizations for low light or action, etc. The 6D has a slightly better focusing system but is MUCH better in low light. It also is not optimized for action. In that respect it is a bit of a general purpose camera. What sets it apart is that it is a full-frame camera with excellent low-light performance (it can focus in significantly less light than your T3i and it can also shoot at significantly higher ISO speeds and still keep noise under control (much more than your T3i could handle.)
The 6D is a different animal and if I intend to keep it, I am going to have to get to know it a lot better than I do now. I am just disappointed that I will not be able to use it in the same manner as I did my T3i, as in now I can only use manual or AV. These cameras are expensive and have a lot of options. I feel if I don't use them, it is kind of like buying a TV and only using one or two channels.
You are struggling with basic exposure issues. I realize you say you've had a T3i and have been shooting for a while, but I don't think you actually understand how some fundamentals of photography work... e.g. exposure values and the exposure triangle, depth of field concepts, etc. When you take a shot, the amount of available light is whatever it is... which camera you are using doesn't do much to alter the exposure choices... sure one lens might have a lower possible f-stop value, etc. but I can use a hand-held light meter not made by Canon or Nikon or Olympus or anyone else and it can give me an exposure reading. I can then use that exposure in any camera I want. If the meter says I can shoot at ISO 200, f/8, and 1/800th then I can use those exposure settings (or equivalent exposures) in ANY camera brand or model. I really suggest you pick up some reading on those subjects. The Bryan Peterson "Understanding Exposure" book is highly recommended -- as is the Scott Kelby "Digital Photography" series of books.
I am not opposed to using a focul rail(or focus wheel) as LCambell suggested, but then again I fail to see why this lens has IS if you must use a tripod for macro. And some places do not allow tripods. Then what can you do? I would also like a suggestion about manual focusing. Back in the day when I had my OM-1 it was easy to do with the split line. It is much harder now to tell if it is in focus without a built-in gauge. Any other tips you might have that could help, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Film cameras with manual focus lenses tended to have the split-prism focus aid. Auto-focus cameras tend to not have them anymore (there are some companies that make focus screens that have them) I believe the Canon Eg-S super-precision focusing screen is compatible with your 6D. The focus screen has a matte texture which exaggerates the blur in out of focus areas making it easier to tell when the lens is focused (when focusing manually) -- however that particular focus screen needs more light and is designed for use with f/2.8 and lower focal ratio lenses.
Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da
