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Depth of field for video loss of sharpness with EOS 70D, 18-55 zoom lens

moonlight33
Enthusiast

Hi everyone, I've been on this forum previously for this matter but asking specifically if there are any options I'm missing? Thank you! Shooting video of natural scenes outdoors with Canon 70D, 18-55 zoom lens.  I am shooting intentionally at 24 fps and using 50/sec and holding my aperture between 8-11, because I've been advised here that the loss of sharpness is that this lens should only be set at F11 max, to hold sharpness.  My problem is that the depth of field is not enough and the final outcome is really limited.  I do need more depth of field, and focus about a third into the distance of the scene.  Do I need a better lens that will allow F22, etc.?  Also, does anyone have a suggestion for the best color setting...such as neutral, or faithful, or.....?  Depth of field is quite important for my project.  Even with a lens filter to deal with sunny conditions, (on my list to buy) it wouldn't solve the problem of depth of field if I cannot close down the lens past F11.  Your responses will be so helpful, thank you!

16 REPLIES 16

The latest video shoot (which I am going to re-shoot!)...looks embarrassingly poor...obviously over-exposed, despite fixing it in post...still obviously flawed.  Trying to figure out the best filter brand to purchase.  I'm using a tripod.There wasn't any wind issue this shoot...do have a weight on it and propped it against a sturdy fence as well. I just cannot understand how my film camera lens was so simple in regard to DoF. Thank you for feedback, I am going to also test out with another fps setting this afternoon. My instinct tells me the overexposure may be part of this.

Funny!  Thank you.  3.5-5.6 is what the lens specs are (18-55). 

Do you understand what that spec means?

it means that as you zoom from 18-55 the widest aperture changes from f/3.5 to f/5.6. 
Does your camera have an auto video setting? If so try that and at least verify that a proper video can be achieved. 

What you are describing is not a diffraction issue. 

John Hoffman
Conway, NH

R6 Mark III, M200 (converted to infrared), RF lenses, Pixma PRO-100, Pixma TR8620a, Lr Classic

Waddizzle
Legend
Legend

I agree with John’s reasoning.  You said rhat you focus one third of the way into the field of view. That’s good advice. This chart and illustration help to explain why one would do that.

IMG_5095.jpeg

IMG_5096.jpeg

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"Enjoying photography since 1972."

I will do some more auto testing and evaluate again, thank you for the suggestion.

Hello again, thank you for your expertise as I try to do the best with the equipment that I have.  I went back into my files to evaluate the settings and found that I had indeed shot a few video clips with the auto setting. I reviewed both clips side to side and created a new project in iMovie in order to set the saturation, levels, contrast, etc. as close as possible for a good comparison. The conclusion is frustrating. The auto settings did not provide forensics of shutter speed or aperture which was used (which they do for my manual settings in the camera), and the sharpness with the depth of field was a bit improved. So, obviously a bit more DoF was achieved, but minimal.  It was as if it was a bit more sharp in what was available, but more distance was not necessarily achieved.  Next, the video was more choppy of the ocean and birds, with noticeable static/electronic jittering on the water, leading me to believe that 50 shutter speed was not used. My manual settings, obviously over exposed from lack of a filter, was set at 50 and F-stop had been pushed to F16, which was beyond what I knew I should be doing to maintain the best sharpness.   In the next scenic shoot, similar setting but early evening, I still was overexposing without a filter but limited my F-stop to F10, to achieve better sharpness. I cannot say for sure that I achieved more sharpness, ...it seems pleasing, but not at all the depth of field which I hoped to attain.  I know from the previous mistakes that when I attempted F22 it was not successful.  Is this the result of my lens only? If so, by purchasing a zoom (which is needed for my projects) but a higher quality (wider aperture), will I succeed?  My background is film photography, I'm not versed in digital tech lenses or video, so your input is wonderful, thank you!

Hi again, I responded to the Waddizzle post regarding the auto setting. Thank you so much for your help.

EOS R6 V RF20-50mm F4 L IS USM PZ Lens Kit
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