@Maria wrote:
Thanks everyone! My understanding is that Nikon's do meter on the active / selected AF point(s). It's one of the reasons I considered switching a while back. I do a lot of backlit portraits so using anything other than spot metering will not give me an accurate reading.
Right now with my Canon I basically have to look at my LCD to check if my subjects face is exposed properly which means that every time we move spots I have to take 'test shots'... It's a big waste of time.
I tend to shoot at f2.8 and not that far from the subject so sometimes focusing and recomposing will result in an image that is not sharp.
I was hoping that with the mirrorless line Canon took the opportunity to address metering.
If there is a solution other than my constant test shot approach please let me know!
No need to switch brands or even take a test shot. You're making Spot metering more difficult than it needs to be.
With your Spot meter centered on the subject, half press the shutter release to activate the meter and then press the AE Lock (*) button. This will retain whatever exposure the Spot meter determined for some 10 or 15 seconds, during which you can recompose as you see fit, focus and take the shot. Very simple and it works great for one or a few quick shots of a backlit subject.
Practice this a little and it soon becomes second nature.
If you are going to be shooting a series of shots of the subject, I'd recommend using the above to make a test shot, then reset the camera to manual mode (no Auto ISO) and set everything yourself. Once that's done, you can shoot away without concern, until the light changes or you and the subject move to different lighting.
If you need to shoot really fast, try Evaluative metering. It gives sort of a "semi" spot metering effect. While it measures the overall scene, it puts extra emphasis on the area right around the subject. Depending upon how much of the image is filled by your subject and how strong the backlighting, it can work pretty darned well.
I love backlighting, look for it and use it a lot. It's often helpful with portraits, so that subjects aren't "squinting" against the sun and look relaxed. Rim lighting can be nice, too.
I agree with Wadizzle, though, that sometimes fill light is needed. In the image below, it was simply the sun bouncing off a white painted wall to my left that served as fill (shot would probably have been impossible, without that fill light)....
Or, sometimes flash is needed, such as with this backlit subject...
All the above were done using Evaluative metering... not Spot.
Along with Spot metering and AE Lock, you can use any AF setup you like... Pre-selecting a single off-center point will usually give you the best focus accuracy. Keep in mind that your particular cameras have one dual axis/high performance AF point at the center. The 6D's other ten AF points, and the T1i's other eight AF points are all single axis and slightly lower performance. (Regarding the older film SLR... if I recall correctly it has three AF points, but whether all are singe axis or dual axis or a mix, I simply don't know.)
Some newer DSLRs including the 6DII, 80D, 90D, T7i, 77D use a 45-point AF system where all points are the higher performance dual axis type. 70D and 7D use 19-point, all dual axis type. 7DII use 65-point, all dual axis type.
***********
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7DII (x2), 7D(x2) some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & ZENFOLIO
