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5D Mark III and 100-400mm IS II images never sharp

wells440
Apprentice

Hi Experts,

 

I need some help. I've tried everything I know. I've done the AF Microadjustments test and it came out great. Both wide and telephoto. I've removerd the filter. I've shot on a tripod with and without the IS on my lens. I don't know what else to do. I have attached a photo of an eagle that I cropped. It was approx 100 yards away. He was still and I was resting on a fence. As you can see, it's not very sharp. All my pictures come out like this, not tack sharp. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Eagle Test.jpg

29 REPLIES 29

cicopo
Elite

At that distance I suspect you've cropped away a big part of the file. We'll need a lot of info on how you take your photos. ISO, SS, Aperture and mode used, weather conditions (humidity, wind etc). Shooting RAW or jpg? Method to post process etc.  

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Thank you cicopo for responding so quickly.

Yes, I've found out with this full frame, I crop away a lot when bird shooting. I use Lightroom 5 to PP and shoot RAW. The eagle shot was sunny day with little wind. Approx 11:30 am so sun was high at the eagles left.

1/1000 @ f/8 400 ISO 560mm(400mm + 1.4x)  I was approx 75-100yrds away, hand held with IS on the lens.

I would say it's the distance but it seems anytime I shoot over 25-30yds, I lose a lot of sharpness. Even when I shoot with my 24-70mm lens, I don't get that tack sharpness. Maybe I expected more from the 5D Mark III. The camera is brand new, 2 months old. Thank you.

Can you retry at ISO 100 or 200?  Higher ISO not only produces grain but it also lowers the amount of detail captured. ISO 800 is not all that high on a 5d3, but you are cropping aggressively which will expose any lack of detail.  

 

I don't have a full answer/solution but I do know that getting closer (or a longer lens) so you crop a whole lot less will help, as will shooting at lower ISO.  Avoid backlighting (tough for a bird I know) because the subject will be dim and lose detail and color and contrast. 

Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

I'll suggest that you test your set up at what I call a reasonable distance before doing much else. Mount it on a solid tripod & shoot some samples from 60 feet & then about 100 feet with & without the TC. Carefully examine those & if they are soft it's gear or settings but if they are sharp distance to subject is your problem amplified by atmospheric haze & minute camera shake.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

You might find this helpful too.

 

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=857871

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

A couple of things, remember the camera is not 'tack sharp'.  The lens is. Of course a better camera will make a great lens better.  But the better camera is not going to make a average lens better.

The first version of the ef 100-400mm is an average lens.  I suspect that is as good as it gets at that distance.  The resolving power of any lens goes south at that kind of distance.  Unless the subject is huge.  Like the Moon.

 

Now that is not to say you can't do some things to help it.  That also depends on your technique. So first suggestion is, get closer.  Make very sure you don't mis-focus.  For that shot use only the center focus point.  And of course the extreme cropping is a no-no.  Like Scott said the lower ISO numbers are going to be best but I doubt you can see any difference between 100 and 800 on a 5D Mk III. The 100-400mm needs to be stopped down at least one stop to be at its best.

 

MFA at that distance is not likely a big factor since DOF will increase (unless you missed your focus point).  And you know never use any filter on that lens.  It simply doesn't have the IQ to give up.  It goes without saying don't use any tele converters either.

Big always do point is use the hood.  All the time.  Every time!

 

Now about your 24-70mm?  Is it first version or second?  Can you show me a sample from it that isn't sharp?  Also don't strip the EXIF from it.  The second version of that lens is one of the sharpest lenses I have ever used and used.  The first version is just an average lens.  Don't get me wrong here it is a good lens, used one for years, it just isn't in the same league as the new version. 

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

I have both Canon 7d and 5d mark iii, when using 100-400 lens all images from 7d tack sharp, all settings. However when using 5d mark 111 all images are soft, all settings.

Is there a software update for 5d markiii? Or particular setting that will correct.Very dissapointed with the 5d.

 

You might look into AFMA, auto focus micro adjustment.  Do a search on YouTube for "Dot Tune Focus Adjustment".

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."

Will do. Thanks,

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