Are you trying to understand the switches?
I do not know of any "tutorials" per se, but can run you through what they do and why you'd care.
The lens has four switches on the side.
The top switch is a focus-range limiter. In the 1.4-infinity position it will use the full range. In the 2.5-infinity position it will not attempt to focus on close objects.
The next swtich down is the auto-focus / manual-focus switch ... common to all auto-focus lenses. You probably are familiar with that one already.
The next switch is turns the image stabilization on or off. All image stabilized lenses have one of these as well, so you're probably familiar with it.
The final switch is the most interesting... this changes the stabilizer mode.
Mode 1 provides full stabilization and this is the mode that works like just about every other lens with image stabilization. Most of the time, this is the mode you want.
Mode 2 is a special mode useful for "panning" shots. This mode is intended for situations where you're tracking a subject moving horizontally across the image. You don't want the stabilization to fight you as you track, but you don't want to completely switch off stabilization either. Basically you need to track in the horizontal direction, but stabilize in the vertical direction -- that's what mode 2 does.
This shot was taken with an EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM (original... not the "II") using image stabilization mode 2.
To get this shot, I slowed the shutter speed down to only 1/40th sec. This is normally too slow to "freeze" action, but in this case I want to imply motion. The camera is not still ... I'm using the camera hand-held at this speed and I'm tracking the rider by "panning" the camera down the street with the bike. The image stabilization will correct for any minor up/down movement of the lens, but will not attempt to correct for sideways movement (because of course we WANT the lens to be sweeping sideways).
When the shot it taken at this slow shutter speed, we get a blurred background and we also get blurred spokes on the bike -- which really helps convey the motion in the shot even though this is a "still" camera shot (no Photoshop effects here.)
Panning shots do take some practice and plan to get a lot of bad ones. I use "continuous" shooting and take a burst of shots as the subject moves past me, then evaluate to decide which one ultimately is the strongest image.
Ditto. Tim. 
There has been lots written about IS and the bottom line is, it is usually a good thing. Mounting on a tripod is really the only time it may work against you.
