EF 50mm as a second lens for a R7 with 18-150mm Kit Lens

[jomerkod]

Ive got some important indoor events coming up and need to capture some crucial shots for a friend. The lighting will likely be quite poor (think candles and dimmed lights.)

Was wondering if getting a second hand EF 50mm f/1.8 STM was a good idea to not miss some of those shots. It will be quite cheap about 100 USD for adaptor and lens together.

Or do you think the kit will do fine. I'm a novice, but its a very important event. I've seen some threads suggesting a "nifty fifty" being a good second lens to the 18-150mm kit

[jrhoffman75]

At that price I am guessing that it is not the Canon EF-RF adapter. Folks have reported problems with the non-Canon adapters (I have no direct experience).

Set your zoom lens to 50mm and check that you can get the coverage you will need. Depending on what you will be shooting 50mm may not be wide enough.

If 50mm will work for you I suggest you get the RF 50mm f/1.8. 

[shadowsports]

Greetings ,

I am in agreement with John.  The RF-S 18-150 Is a great lens, but you are not going to be happy with the images shot indoors by candlelight.

If you owned EF glass, then buying an adapter (Canon only) might make sense.  If you're going to buy the 50mm by the RF.  The difference in price is negligible and it's best to stay native when possible.

A 50mm f1.8 can do pretty well indoors in low light. On a crop sensor body. It will give you a field of view equivalent of 80mm.  How far are you going to be from your subjects?  Since it's a prime, you will need to use your feet to compose your pictures.  If you have clear line of sight to your subjects, a tripod might be a good idea too 

[ebiggs1]

"Was wondering if getting a second hand EF 50mm f/1.8 STM was a good idea ..."

I wouldn't do it. The only thing a 50mil prime has to offer is the faster aperture all the rest is down hill from that. It is just a difficult FL to live with made worse on a cropper.

A $100 bucks for both lens and adapter isn't much to lose so do you feel lucky? If its a hundred bucks you don't need what the heck.

[stevet1]

jomerkod,

The 18-150 is a variable aperture lens. What that means is that at its fullest "zoomed out" position of 18mm, the widest aperture you can set is f/3,5. At its fullest "zoomed in" position of 150mm, the lowest aperture you can set is f/6.3.

In a real low-light situation, you want as much light gathering aperture capability that you can get. The lowest aperture you can set with the 50mm is f/1,8. However, lenses don't work their best at their lowest aperture. Most lenses have a "sweet spot" at around 1 to 2 stops narrower than their lowest setting. That means on a 50mm lens, it will work best at f/2,8 to f/5.0 or 5.6. Some say its "sweet spot" is f/5.6. I personally have been happy when mine is set at f/2.8

You have to ask yourself how much difference you might get between f/2.8 with the 50mm and f/3.5 with the 18-150mm.

Since the aperture on an 18-150 lens changes as you increase its focal length, I do not know at what focal lengths the 18-150 changes its minimum aperture. I do not own one, Perhaps someone who does can advise you better.

What is the minimum aperture at 50mm? Does it jump to f/4 or f/4.5 or even f/5.0? Now you're looking at the difference between f/2.8 and f/5.0 perhaps, and if the "sweet spot" is one or two stops above its minimum, it might even be higher than that.

It's a juggling act between how much you can zoom, and what kind of light gathering capabilities you'll get.

In your situation, for $100, I'd be inclined to get the 50mm and ''zoom with your feet":, if you can.

Steve Thomas

[shadowsports]

Here are those stats, which is why I mentioned the RF-S 18-150 would not provide acceptable performance indoors in candlelight 🕯

• 18-18mm = f/3.5
• 18-27mm = f/4.0
• 28-34mm = f/4.5
• 35-44mm = f/5.0
• 45-61mm = f/5.6
• 62-150mm = f/6.3

  Your mirrorless body deserves RF glass.  Your call. 🤔

[ebiggs1]

"I'd be inclined to get the 50mm and ''zoom with your feet":, if you can."

Zooming with your feet can be a real challenge in some events. The "... if you can." part becomes a factor. I have shot events for my entire photographer career life span. Not knowing what "events" the OP is considering but finding out whether mobility on your part is possible or not needs to be addressed before hand.

Back when I started my career zooms were not as good as they are today and primes were what we all used. That has changed now and primes do not offer any advantage over zooms for the most part except some have a more open aperture. Not all though consider the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art Lens. There are others.