Dissappinted with the EF 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM

[Shebulba]

Hello, I'm new on this forum.

I recently bought a used EF 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM from a store online thinking it would be the greatest lens I have ever owned from reading up on it a lot beforehand.

The lens looks like new and I intended to use it on a Canon R6 mk 1 with the original standard Canon adapter. But to my disappointment just around 30-40% (if I'm being nice to the lens) of the shots are in focus on the eye using Servo AF, face + eye-tracking, back button focus and using shutter speeds around 1000-2000th. I have tested this on my 5 year old daughter and my wife who have been walking, running and just doing normal things in the every day life and with this low amount of shots in focus in pretty disappointed.

I have tried all different cases for autofocus and to nap the eye tracking to different buttons. I do have two R6's and the results are the same on both bodies. The firmware is the latest on both bodies too.

I have a few other lenses like EF 100mm f/2, Tamron 24-70 f/2 G1, EF 100-400mm L mk 1, RF 24-240mm that I have done the same tests with. The 100mm f/2 gets more shots in focus by a great margin for example, about 75% in focus. I thought I had bought almost the best EF 70-200 f/2.7 lens out there, but shouldn't it perform better than this? Maybe I should have kept my old Sigma EX 70-200 f/2.8 without stabilization instead...

Sometimes it looks like the focus is on the eyelash, nose or mouth but sometimes the image is just soft. When shooting static objects or people been still it gets focus as I would expect it to. The problem is when tracking moving subjects. Could there be something wrong with the lens so it's unusual slow to track?

For example I had my wife walk mostly towards the camera from a distance looking both straight on and to the sides with her head and of 169 shots I got 52 in focus. When it gets focus it is fantastic, but shouldn't it get more shots in focus?

Is there still something I can try or change to get the results I know this lens can achieve or is it a case of trying to return the lens? I'm shooting my first wedding this summer and wanted to use this lens, but I don't want to feel unsecure if the lens will get the important shots in focus or not doing while under the pressure of the big day for the couple.

Thank you for your thought on this!

[Shebulba]

I don't know. It was purchased from a small online camera store in my country that has good reviews. I haven't purchased anything there before.

Can anyone else chime in on how their hit rate is with shots in focus on the eye using Eye tracking on the R6 or even the R5?

[shadowsports]

Greetings,

I reviewed both shots.  One taken on a M6 mkI, the other an R6 mkI.

It looks like the cameras locked on to face or eyes in both shots.  I agree the shots are soft

Handheld using Tv 1000 @f2.8, I would expect better/more.  

I shot this yesterday using 1 point AF, SS 1/250th @f3.2

My Nephew is sharp, my Neice was slightly out of focus (just barely) as the camera locked on her bouquet.   They were walking towards me at the time.  I was walking backwards.  Step step pause snap, step step pause snap.  

Upon re-reading your thread, what Waddizzle mentioned could make sense.  The entire shot(s) looks uniformly OOF, and this could be due to shake.  Even with a fast shutter.  

I suggest you choose one of the cameras (R6) and reset its settings (main and custom), then retest.  If notable improvement is not seen, it might be wise to trade the lens, or at the very least take it to the place of purchase for more evaluation.   

[Shebulba]

Thank you for checking them out! I actually forgot I tested the lens with my M6II, I should have sent two photos from the R6 instead. 

So even using such fast shutter speeds it could actually be camera shake you think?

If I put the camera on a tripod and shot someone walking towards the camera, that would minimize the rush och camera shake at least? Maybe that could be a good way to test it.

I have reset the settings twice on the R6 but I can do it again and check.

[Shebulba]

I tried to shoot on a tripod this evening after work using 1/1250th shutter, f/2.8 and different focal lengths on my wife walking towards the camera. About 85% were sharp in the eyes! It was late in the evening though so the ISO was pretty high around 4000-5000.

I will try it again tomorrow. Maybe it is a user error after all?

[Waddizzle]

“ Yes that should be correct that I used the LCD on that shot. But I've taken so many photos to try the lens out and out of them I've used the EVF the most and no tripod on any of them.

I have high shutter speeds, IBIS and stabilized lens, ut at least shouldn't be an issue in my mind. “

Using a fast shutter speed is not a cure-all for camera shake, especially if you are shooting with the rear LCD, instead of a viewfinder.  Your samples are consistent with excessive camera shake, most likely as a result of using the rear LCD.  They are uniformly out of focus. That is a red flag for camera shake.

The M6 does not have a standard viewfinder, although an add-on accessory is available.  While the 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is able to function with an M6, it is not the best of pairings.  Excessive camera shake is hard to avoid and probably inevitable shooting handheld.   I own an M3, BTW.

The primary job of IS, Image Stabilization, is to stabilize the image for AF system and the viewfinder / rear LCD.  This is what the IS spends 99.99% of its time doing.  The act of stabilizing the image for a photo only takes a small fraction of a second.

Your sample shots are inconclusive because of the shooting technique.  Seeing how the lens works with DSLRs, I strongly suspect the lens is just fine and technique is the likely fault.  If your subjects are moving, then your camera/lens combo is moving with them.

I suggest that you take actual test shots from a stable platform like a tripod or even a table.  Use the built-in 2-10 second shutter delay function.  Let us know how the photos turn out.

BTW, there is a recommend technique for holding a camera.  Keep your elbows tucked into your body when you are shooting handheld.  Doing so not only provides more stability point to support the camera, but it reduces the chance of someone bumping your elbow and knocking the camera out of your grip. 

[Shebulba]

Thank you for helping out.

I forgot I shot one of the photos with the M6II actually and should have sent two photos from the R6. I do think I did use the EVF on the M6II though. 

I will test it from a tripod. Is it possible to use servo AF with the timer though? Maybe I can stand behind the tripod and press the shutter myself?

I will let you know how it works out. Thanks!

[Waddizzle]

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@Shebulba wrote:

Thank you for helping out.

I forgot I shot one of the photos with the M6II actually and should have sent two photos from the R6. I do think I did use the EVF on the M6II though. 

I will test it from a tripod. Is it possible to use servo AF with the timer though? Maybe I can stand behind the tripod and press the shutter myself?

I will let you know how it works out. Thanks!

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It is not possible to use Servo AF with the shutter delay timer.  If you are not pressing either. the [SHUTTER] or the [AF-ON] button, then the AF system is ideal.  

Using a tripod?  I would suggest capturing a couple of shots using One Shot AF and the shutter delay timer with a still subject.   Then take a photo of someone walking toward the camera using AF Servo.  

The latter will require that you press the shutter to acquire the subject and lock focus. You will need to maintain a button press until you take the shot.  The shutter delay timer is not needed in this scenario.  

[EDIT[. Disable the IS on the lens when you are using a tripod.

[Shebulba]

I have captures som shots in One Shot I believe that was sharp and with still human subjects the focus is good on the eyes most of the time.

Therefore I thought to use a tripod while photographing someone moving to eliminate camera shake.

[Shebulba]

Iv tried shooting from a tripod this evening in Servo AF with my walking to the camera using 1/1250th shutter speed and f2.8. About 85% of the shots were sharp in the eyes!

I will try it again tomorrow in better light, but now I'm feeling (and hoping) it's actually user error? Maybe I need to work on my technique with large lenses then...

[Shebulba]

Hello again and thank you all for your responses and help so far! When using the lens on a tripod (IS off) and doing the same tests as before (person walking towards the camera) and then I do get about 80% of shots in focus. I did the tests a few times and in different days.
These results felt better, but still is not over 80% the shots in focus. I hope Im not to hard on the lens but should it not be one of the best 70-200´s out there?

Testing it again using different auto focus cases and tweeking them from test to test the results are down to about 50% in focus, and this drives me crazy! I have tried everything I can imagine and still the results is not better than this. I still use high shutter speeds 1/1000th and above and without a UV-filter on. It is like the autofocus can´t keep up with moving subjects. I have tested a lot on my 5 year old daughter and I feel that If i can´t get her sharp in focus when she is moving how could I then do sports like soccer (if I want to do that sometime) and get the players in focus?
Am I asking to much when looking at the photos and rating if the image is sharp or not depending on if the eyes are sharp and in focus? 

When looking where the autofocus points are they are all over the place, mostly on the person but so many times not on the eyes (yes the eye tracking is still on as before). Should the focus and autofocus boxes not be on the eyes more often? 

I hope this all makes sense. I am really thinking about ditching this lens and even try out a Sigma 70-200 2.8 Sports or Tamron 70-200 2.8 G2. The RF version is over my budget.
Thank you for reading and if someone have any last suggestions I appreciate it very much!