05-21-2017 09:35 AM
Okay, so it could be me - I'm not a total noob, but who knows. Been shooting with my Canon Rebel T3i for several years. Mostly used my 55-250 kit lens and at times I got some tack sharp photos from that lens
Regarding my new 100-400 vii lens, I have yet to get a crisp shot - the shots are just okay to me. Granted I am hand holding the camera and lens when trying to take photos, and it is a bit heavy (mostly of birds and wildlife) but I do have the IS on. I usually shoot on M but lately I've been using TV mode - my photos are okay but they just are not sharp enough. I have it on AF - and sometimes it takes a few seconds to focus.
Even with my tripod, again, the shots are okay - some are passable, but I know what sharp is as I've taken a few with my 55-250 and so far I'm not cutting it.
I usually have the lens to full zoom at 400 and I try to keep the shutter speed at least 400 as I've read the focal length should be reciprocal to the shutter speed. My histogram looks great quite often...
Question/Issues: Perhaps I am too far away from my subject? Birds are so skittish so I usually stand maybe 20 feet away.
I thought with the larger zoom that meant I wouldn't have to be as close to my subject .
So am I too far away?
If someone has a few moments, perhaps I can get some advice or point me to a great website....Thanks very much.
05-21-2017 10:16 AM - edited 05-21-2017 10:27 AM
Because of manufacturing tolerances you may need to do an AFMA. Your camera does not support Auto Focus Manual Adjustment. The best thing you can do is return the lens in exchange for another and hope you get one that matches your camera, or upgrade to a camera that supports AFMA. Your lens is a good lens, it just needs help matching you camera.
What AFMA does is allow you to change where you are focusing in relation to the subject. If you are focusing slightly in front of or behind the subject you'd be able to make an adjustment to be spot on.
Even with a pro level camera, sometimes AFMA must be done to match lens and camera. This isn't a problem with the camera or lens. This has to do with manufacturing tolerances.
The good news is that maybe you are able to upgrade the camera to one that supports AFMA. As far as IS goes... I recommend leaving it off for moving subjects. Also, try using AP mode instead of TV. For birds, especially small ones, you need a faster shutter than 1/400. Much faster. Set for widest aperture in AP mode, have good light, and see what happens.
05-21-2017 08:58 PM
05-21-2017 10:48 AM - edited 05-21-2017 10:59 AM
@Summerlee340 wrote:Okay, so it could be me - I'm not a total noob, but who knows. Been shooting with my Canon Rebel T3i for several years. Mostly used my 55-250 kit lens and at times I got some tack sharp photos from that lens
Regarding my new 100-400 vii lens, I have yet to get a crisp shot - the shots are just okay to me. Granted I am hand holding the camera and lens when trying to take photos, and it is a bit heavy (mostly of birds and wildlife) but I do have the IS on. I usually shoot on M but lately I've been using TV mode - my photos are okay but they just are not sharp enough. I have it on AF - and sometimes it takes a few seconds to focus.
Even with my tripod, again, the shots are okay - some are passable, but I know what sharp is as I've taken a few with my 55-250 and so far I'm not cutting it.
I usually have the lens to full zoom at 400 and I try to keep the shutter speed at least 400 as I've read the focal length should be reciprocal to the shutter speed. My histogram looks great quite often...
Question/Issues: Perhaps I am too far away from my subject? Birds are so skittish so I usually stand maybe 20 feet away.
I thought with the larger zoom that meant I wouldn't have to be as close to my subject .
So am I too far away?
If someone has a few moments, perhaps I can get some advice or point me to a great website....Thanks very much.
1/400 is way too slow of a shutter speed for bird photography. The 1/focal length applies to camera shake, not moving.
subjects.
I normally use 1/1600 for bird photography and Mode 3 on the IS.
05-21-2017 11:42 AM
05-21-2017 01:15 PM
05-21-2017 01:18 PM
@Summerlee340 wrote:
Great photos,TTM. Thanks for your reply. Right now I am not trying to get action shots of the birds - I am after crispness so I've been taking photos of them when they are stationary (which doesn't last that long!) and then looking at my photos to see how they look. Do you think I should still up my shutter speed even though I am taking them when they're still?
Yes, you should up your shutter speed, bird are seldom truly still even when they are sitting in a tree.
Minimum shutter speed should be 1/800 and since you're not use to holding that large of a lens closer to 1/12000.
05-21-2017 06:12 PM
@Summerlee340 wrote:
Great photos,TTM. Thanks for your reply. Right now I am not trying to get action shots of the birds - I am after crispness so I've been taking photos of them when they are stationary (which doesn't last that long!) and then looking at my photos to see how they look. Do you think I should still up my shutter speed even though I am taking them when they're still?
Two things that, to me, are the most important to get sharp photos...
1. The closer you are the better - fill the frame
2. As high a shutter speed as possible (1/2000 or faster if at all possible)
Do these two and you still have problem with sharpness then start thinking there's something wrong with the lens or other equipment.
When I first got my 400mm f/5.6L lens I couldn't get a single sharp pictures for the first 3 days even on a tripod...I was close to returning the lens until I properly learn to use it. Prior to using the 400mm FL, I was using the 70-200mm, sometimes with the 1.4X extender with razor sharp results...400mm is a whole another level, especially on a cropped sensor. I had a cheap $50 tripod...it was no help at all as it was quivering in the wind and under the weight of the lens. You need to invest in a more decent tripod.
For unmoving subjects, minimum shutter speed should be at least 1/1000...and remember the faster the better...In time you can slow down but it will take practice. I can now shoot at 1/320 with decent results but that's after many years of practice using proper breathing techniques.
@Also, I'm willing to bet that for most of your very sharp pictures @ FL250, most are taken at close range. You simply get more details closer in - so get as close as possible.
@Here is what the 100-400mm v II can do. This was taken with a 7D Mark II handheld @ 400mm, 1/400, f/5.6, ISO 500. I adjusted clarity, vibrance and saturation in photoshop but otherwise unsharpened.
05-21-2017 08:54 PM
05-21-2017 09:20 PM
Hello diverhank,
Here are three unedited uncropped photos that I took after I read everyone's comments today about upping the SS, etc. Still handheld (next stop, use tripod). Settings: 1/1000, Manual mode, 400mm Auto ISO. They still do not look tack sharp. Perhaps I should take tons more as several people have mentioned not every photo is a keeper. Thanks again.
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