A body surfer at Zuma Beach in Los Angeles takes one last breath before the "barrel" of the wave closes on him. It looks violent, but is actually one of the safer places to be when a wave is breaking....besides the shore.
A body surfer at Zuma Beach in Los Angeles takes one last breath before the "barrel" of the wave closes on him. It looks violent, but is actually one of the safer places to be when a wave is breaking....besides the shore.