Cannon SX170 IS telephoto shots

[MrB]

Can this IS system prevent camera shake at max. zoom while hand held?  I have a Nikon Cool Pix with eletronic IS that blures every shot unless on a tri pod.  Unacceptable!

[cicopo]

I don't know the max zoom for it nor do I intend to look it up because there is a simple rule which dictates the answer and that rule is that to "usually" prevent blur from camera shake you need to use a shutter speed = to or faster than 1/focal length. That means that if the focal length is 300 mm you need to use a shutter speed of 1/300 or faster . To get that you can adjust the camera's ISO & aperture BUT you can't exceed the built in limits so IF you don't have enough light to use the right shutter speed you need to hold the camera very steady such as with a tripod. 

However the introduction of IS (also known as OS, VR & VC) changed that "slightly" in some instances At best the IS in a consumer grade P & S might control shake by 2 stops (2 steps lower of a shutter speed) but I seriously doubt it would be perfect any slower if in fact it can do a full 2 stops. It doesn't help when shooting a moving target while panning. There are lenses with built in IS capable of helping while panning but they are expensive compared to a P & S camera.

[MrB]

Thanks....my Nikon Cool Pix. S4100 wide 5x zoom set on auto ISO....daylight...about 20 ft. from still subject...zoom in for a close up of subject....I must be extreamly careful of camera shake when pressing the shutter or I get a blured image.  At wide shot, no problem.  This camera makes taking a photo so frustrating I'm ready to toss it.  I have taken pictures for years and aware of "moving" the camera upon shutter release.  The IS helps me as I'm getting older, but this camera is a problem.  HELP!!

[MrB]

Thanks for your post.  The max. Zoom is approx. 450mm (from 28mm) equal to 35mm standards.  Since the camera is an auto PS...I will have to over ride it's auto setting when zooming.  I think this camera will allow me to do so.  My Nikon that is causing me problems does not have anything but full auto mode.  A Nikon Cool Pix S4100, Wide 5x zoom..P&S touch screen.  I purchased it on the web...I should have gone to a store and tried it out firsthand.  The $50. Or so I saved buying it on line was lost overall.  I wanted a small P&S camera I could take fishing or with me on my motorcycle trips..Something to shoot land scapes and zoom in on tight shots.  The Nikon was the wrong camera.  I think the Cannon SX170 will do the trick..But I'm going to try it out at a store first!  Thanks for your help!  

[cicopo]

Using some simple numbers just for comparison think of the 5X zoom as being from 30 mm to 150 mm (30 X 5) so at 30 mm you can get away with a shot at 1/30 seconds or faster but for 150 mm you now need to be at 1/150 or faster for the same result when talking about the effect of camera shake on the photo taken, SO at 480 mm you will need a minimum of 1/500 for a similar result.

Now let me ask you whether you hold the camera up against your face & use the viewfinder or are you holding it out & looking at the LCD to compose. Everyone wants hold it out there but that's terrible technique even at wide angle shots & it will pretty much guarantee poor results while zoomed to the long end. At long zoom lengths it's critical the camera be steady, and how you hold it & your body are very important. It's even a good idea to lean against things like a door frame, wall or pole or even a tree to stay steady. Good results come from good technique & an understanding of the minimum shutter speed needed to get a sharp photo from whatever camera you're shooting.

[MrB]

Cicopo...Again, many thanks for your help!  Never heard of the "math principle" you gave but it makes sence.  It will be a HUGE help with future shots and cameras.  My Nikon P&S does not have a view finder, therefor, must be held away from the body to compose in the LD screen...then press down on the shutter...OR... I can choose the touch screen mode to trip the shutter by tapping the back of the camera's screen.  No way to change Fstop or shutter speeds that I'm aware of.  I can change ASA settings and have found asa 400 gives pretty good color range in photos for shade/daylight shots.  Change to asa 100 and again blured telephoto.  Any telephotos taken in the future will have to be asa 800+ and not at all in low light .

Crap....So much for pocket size travel cameras, if one cannot over ride the "Automatic" settings for control, why bother.

Would you have a small easily carried P&S in mind that you would think of trying?  

[cicopo]

To be honest I don't try to keep up with all the P & S models unless I'm researching a new camera for underwater use & for now I'm still very happy with my G9. I do however like the reviews at the site I'll list & it's where I go when I'm in the hunt for a new one.

http://www.imaging-resource.com/camera-reviews/canon-cameras/canon-powershot

Obviously there are 2 schools of thought when looking at P & S cameras & one is to shop for one that is super simple & the other is to find one that lets you take control IF you want but can also be used in an auto or program mode. The camera makers have made it very easy to go the full auto route but learning a few basics & trying them out can quickly improve the results of those willing to experiment with the different functions.