Where do you attach studio lighting on the 70D? Not Speedlight.

[optics_bokeh]

To the hot shoe, it's not only for Speedlights.

Of course what you atach to the camera depends entirely on your setup.

[jane703]

So on the 40D there was a plug in on the side of the camera for the lights - I have two Versalights - will I be able to connect them to the camera as is or will I have to get something to connect them?

And thank you for the quick reply.

Jane

[TCampbell]

You need a PC-cord hot-shoe adapter.  They are fairly inexpensive.

You can get a version which slides into the hot-shoe and provides the PC-sync cord socket -OR- you can get the same adapter but with a Canon E-TTL hot-shoe on it (it passes through signal) so that you can mount a flash (or other accessory) on the camera and still trigger off-camera flash via the sync cord.

I noticed Vello makes both versions... the one that offers the E-TTL hot shoe is $30 and the one without is $15.

Canon makes a specialized version but it's intended to control off-camera E-TTL speedlights which is not what you have.

[amfoto1 · Accepted solution]

The 70D doesn't have a standard PC Sync socket built in, if that's what you are trying to connect.

You  have several choices, either to be able to use a cord or to trigger the strobes wirelessly:

1. You can get an adapter that fits into the hot shoe, that provides a socket for a standard PC Sync cord to connect. If you are using multiple studio strobes, you can get a splitter to be able to hardwire all of them to a single cord leading to the camera, or you can use the cord to one primary strobe and trigger the others optically (see below). Or...

2. Many studio strobes have built in optical triggers. If yours do, you can use those. If they don't have built-in, there are relatively low cost optical triggers that can be added. These can be fired with any flash, even the one built-into the camera (set on low power if you don't want the flash to have any or much effect in the image). You may have to set the built-in flash to Manual, so that it doesn't fire a pre-flash (for TTL/ETTL metering purposes) that would trigger the studio strobes too early to sync with the camera.

3. You can get a wireless "radio" setup to trigger your studio strobes. The transmitter for this also fits into the hot shoe of the camera, and there are corresponding receivers that connect to your studio strobes. If using more than one strobe, one method would be to get a receiver for each one. There are various brands of radio triggers:

4. Or you could set up a hybrid of radio and optical, using a radio transmitter on the camera and one strobe with a radio receiver, and triggering the others optically. As mentioned, many studio strobes have a built in optical trigger, but if yours don't there are low cost optical triggers available (Wein "Peanut", for example).

Note: Most studio strobes fire more slowly than portable flash. I don't have 70D, but from using other Canon APS-C with studio strobes I imagine you will have to keep to 1/160 or slower shutter speeds to properly sync with the strobes. (Portable flash syncs at 1/250 or slower, or even faster shutter speeds if High Speed Sync or HSS is available and used. Studio strobes do not support HSS.)

Note: One problem with with optically triggering strobes is that any flash firing in the vicinity will trip the trigger and cause the strobe to fire. This can be a real problem if other photogrpahers are using flash nearby.

Note: In order to connect a sync cord, radio triggers or optical slave triggers you'll have to check your studio strobes connectivity. Many use a RCA style jack or mini-jack. Others use a two-pronged household style connector. There can be other types of connecting sockets, too. Some radio and optical slave triggers come with a variety of types of connectors. Others might need adapters. Try to use as few adapters and connections as possible, since those can to lead to less reliability.  

EDIT: Okay, JTL Versalight are a monolight and appear to have a built-in optical slave, if you wanted to use that to trigger the second one. You'd only have to use a cable or radio trigger with the primary, your choice, so long as using the optical slave trigger isn't a problem. I can't tell from the illustrations and info on the JTL website what connectivity they use for radio triggers, but it's probably something fairly standard.

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

[jane703]

Thanks for the information - at least I know I'm not crazy.  I have a wireless adaptor and two speedlights, but I really like the studio lighting with softboxes.  Guess I will add the adaptor to my christmas wish list.

Happy shooting over the holidays.

[joearndt]

You could use hot shoe for mounting it over your camera. You could use it on camera LED Lights. Check out DVcity. 

[tauyeung]

1. Use a hot shoe to PC sync adaptor in the camera's hot shoe.
2. Connect the PC sync cable from the flash unit to the PC sync adaptor.
3. Set [A2: Silent LV shoot.] to [Disable]. The flash will not fire if Silent LV shoot is set to [Mode 1] or [Mode 2].
4. Exposure mode set to M. Shutter speed set to 1/60-1/125 sec. Set aperture according to the ASA/distance guide table on the flash unit.
5. Turn off Live View if necessary.