Depending upon the content captured in panoramas, it will be crucial to determine the nodal point (aka no parallax point) of your lens and camera combination. This allows for easy compositing since objects in the scene will correctly line up.
What follows is my workflow. Note that there will be other brands and less complex setups you can use. Though you'll minimally need a tripod, nodal slide and an environment with both near and far veritical lines that you can overlap.
Gear
Really Right Stuff - tripod, ball head, leveling base* and nodal slide.
* the leveling base was necessary since I didn't have the center column configured. With the fixed apex setup, I adjust the three legs independently to raise/lower the overall height. And then re-level it which is much easier to do with a leveling base.
EOS R5 II with 135mm f/1.8 L (IS Off), f/16, 1/250s, ISO 400
C-stand with 1/8" wooden dowel fixed at the top with strips of black gaff tap (sorry, captured image is blurred). This gave me both light and dark areas to make it easier to see it overlapped atop distant lines.
Setup
While you typically use two vertical lines, I used three. The C stand with dowel was the closest vertical line (just outside the hyperfocal distance). A road sign in the distance was the middle vertical line, and a vertical line atop a very distant object was the furthest point (overlayed with pink lines):
Camera was always in its horizontal position (to give the largest degree of movement when panning left-to-right).
The nodal slide has graduated markings, so now just a matter of determining the best value for the camera/lens combination:
From my older 5D IV with EF 135mm f/2, I knew it would be somewhere between 20 and 50mm, but I still started out with more extreme values of 100mm and 0mm.
Using live-view, I panned to one extreme where all vertical lines were near the left edge of the frame. And, noted if there was any shift in them in how they overlapped). Then panned to the other extreme to see how things were near the right edge of the frame.
As an example, here are closeups of what I saw when the nodal slide was at 25mm. So when at the left edge of the frame, note that the dowel was off-center of the sign's post (slightly left). And the opposite when at the right edge of the frame.
You thus want things such that there is virtually no shift at all from one extreme to the other.
It was thus just a matter of doing a divide and conquer to converge on a value to use on the nodal slide.
e.g, when set at 50mm it had the opposite outcome when on 25mm. Thus, some point between 25 and 50mm would be the best setting.
I finally settled on around 30 to 35mm (results in this range were too close to ovserve any differences, so any value would be good.
This value is marked down in a shared document (also synced to my phone), so I have access to it wherever.
Very helpful.
I made this pano standing on the deck of a moving tour boat holding the camera. I used EOS 80D and Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM. Since there was the paralax that you have avoided, I used hugin on Debian Linux to do the stitching. It is 6 images at 100mm. 1/2000 second.
If one selects the control points manually, hugin is able to deal with paralax. But it would be much easier to do it as you have written.
https://www.rsok.com/~jrm/2019_Alaska/2019aug07_glacier_IMG_8743c.html is one image of the same glacier and the page contains a link to the pano.
