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Wildlife and Scenic Photography Equipment Recommendations

ashley84
Apprentice

Hi, I am to photography. For a very long time I have wanted to learn the art of wildlife and scenic photography. What advice do you have on equipment? I am starting from scratch any tips on what equipment I need and tips of capturing beauty of this earth, I would really appreciate any advice or where would be a good place to start. -Thank you-

29 REPLIES 29

You assumedly did not read one of my early posts with links to a R6 body and lenses that come in well within budget and allow money for extra battery, lens hood, etc.  I also note that I never suggested the R5, that was Ebiggs1 early comment.  To save you the effort, I shall re-post it here: (although I encourage you to read that whole post).

See this link:
Canon Refurbished EOS R6 Camera Body | Canon U.S.A., Inc.

Lenses are a bit trickier.  For scenic one tends to go towards wide angle, but for wildlife the opposite is very much true.  So, really you are looking at two different lenses, and preferably with a middle capacity to photograph general images like people, places and events.  So a lot to keep within your remaining budget. 
So my first suggestion would be a wide angle to moderate telephoto lens the Rf 24-105 STM, to cover scenic and social/travel photography
RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM (canon.com)
For wildlife the RF 100-400 STM is a great lens at a reasonable price.
RF100-400mm F5.6-8 IS USM (canon.com)

That combined cost of all three would come in at around $2,450, leaving you funds for things like lens hoods to offer impact protection, and to reduce lens flare when shooting more toward the sun, an extra battery, at least two full-size SD cards from reputable dealers, and optionally (and my preference) protect filters to avoid environmental damage like dust and salt abrasion or chemical reaction with the front elements of your lenses. For landscape work particularly you could well want to get a tripod as Thomas advocated.

I agree with my colleague Ricky that this is beginning to sound more and more like a rear-guard effort in favour of DSLRs.  Your arguments have not been balanced and you have pushed every possible argument for them, each of which I have refuted in term, without bias but with facts and not just my own personal opinion. 
By all means enjoy your own use of the DSLR system and advocate it where it is appropriate, I still do, but that does not blind me to recommending it for folks for whom it clearly has no value as a future photography platform.


cheers, TREVOR

The mark of good photographer is less what they hold in their hand, it's more what they hold in their head;
"All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

No Trevor, I don't skim your posts, I read them as written, in their entirety.

The R6 you linked to was $1400, it was body only. The RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM, $400 and the RF100-400mm F5.6-8 IS USM $650, that's $2450. Personally I always suggest the CarePak which would add an additional $420, protecting your investment would probably be in your best interest, now you've hit that $3000 mark. 

We haven't added cards (at least two of each), filters, case, spare, batteries or a tripod.For those beauty shots at the end of the day those longer exposures and landscapes really do benefit from a tripod as you suggested. If I had the money at some point I would add a gimble.

I didn't add hoods as both of the lenses you recommended come with hoods, this was an assumption as both have them pictured with the lens. My 400mm had a hood factory direct, but again an assumption.

The general consensus of wildlife photographers including myself often state that the 400mm is the bare minimum, most shoot in the 500 - 600mm range. You can get some nice pictures at the local zoo or sitting on a feeder but not really enough reach for practical applications in the field. I own the 400mm Canon and the 60-600mm Sigma, the Sigma performs exceeding better in the field.

Canon 90D refurb, like new, $970. Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 $853, Canon 24-105mm f/4 L IS $408, warranty $470. We have about a $300 savings and gained an extra 200mm in our telephoto lens.

Options are a beautiful thing. The 90D a great starter setup and to this day very much respected in the industry/ If the OP decides to upgrade to mirror-less the lenses are still a part of their stable.

The 90D will also allow the OP to use some lenses that that are simply fun to own. The Sigma 18-300mm macro as well as the Sigma 17-70mm ($345). The 17-70mm is also great for landscape and street photography. These two will not work on a full frame but will on the crop sensor. I own both and just purchased the Sigma 18-300mm for my daughter. Again options.

Additionally, there are also vastly more quality EF lenses available than RF. Over time that will change especially once Canon makes peace with party manufacturers.

I get it you don't agree, I'm OK with it. I figured I would simply respond and discuss other options for the OP. 

And both you and Ricky would be incorrect in your assumption, you know what they say when you assume.


Marc
Windy City

R3 ~ R5 ~ R6 Mk II ~ R50
Lenses: RF Trinity and others
Adobe and Topaz Suite for post processing

Personal Gallery

Having asserted that one cannot get a viable MILC solution, you are justifying it by choosing different items from those I listed and would frankly say are not necessary. The care pack @ $420 is something I would expect a high-end user or professional to purchase rather than a beginner, and would be down my list of things to spend money on: Canon offers at least a year warranty on new gear as I understand it (over here it's five years).   I would expect a care pack to be practical where one is dealing in relatively high-risk activities, such as shooting in all weathers and conditions and that is not normal for starters, but one can provide protection via covers etc. at a far lower price than a care pack for such activities.   I have shot as a professional and amateur for 44 years now and have not broken a lens or body yet - so, it's about risk mitigation.

Because the image shows a lens hood does not mean it comes with one.  If you click on the What's in the Box object, you will see they provide only front and rear caps.  Canon have consistently got flak for this habit of not including hoods with non-L grade lenses.  I purchase them to protect the front along with a protect filter. I get 3rd party hoods at a fraction of the Canon price because they are just a bit of plastic but I do get decent filters.

I had allowed the $550 for the items I list and and I don't see need for a gimble - that is more appropriate for moving objects like birds or aircraft.  For someone starting out that is a luxury - I have spent most of my life shooting wildlife and scenic and on the rare occasions when I use a tripod, I have used a ball head without feeling the loss.  Remember, this is to get them going, not spend money on non-essentials.

Yes, at full frame, the 100-400 is a starter lens, and the OP is a starter and much depends on what kinds of wildlife they intend to shoot.  I used to shoot large macro mammals, especially predators, but now I live in NZ I am mostly limited to birds, because NZ has no native mammals except for a small bat. So, I do shoot long for open spaces, but in bush (i.e. forest to others) it's usually much closer.

However, depending on what the shooter produces, which is why I list it as a critical question, the high probability is that they are going to learn with digital output, and that has implications.   If they are intending to shoot for social media or digital display, they can simply crop a FF image in post or shoot in 1.3 or 1.6 crop mode.  At 1.6 crop the 20MP sensor on the R6 renders a 7.8MP image.  Most sites will simply downsize the images below that themselves - this one has a max limit of 5GB, for example.

If they choose to print, the conventional wisdom suggests that they will start with smaller prints rather than very large ones detailed ones that are going to be examined at nose distance, but most people appreciate an image at a comfortable viewing distance. So, how big a print can one make with such a resolution?  Here is a chart:

Tronhard_0-1706228446508.pngsource digitalphotographylive.com

Essentially, at 8MP, one can make a very good print up to around 12"x8" that will do for pixel peepers, but 16"x12" for normal viewing.  A 20MP sensor will deliver around 18"x12" for high quality and 27"x18" for normal mortals.

One can play with the numbers to spend back and forth, but the basic question remains above all...
What is the future potential for someone starting out, choosing between a DSLR platform that has shown absolutely no new developments in 4 years, and is eroding its offerings (there are precisely 6 DSLRs of all model levels and 34 DSLR lenses of all price points for sale on the Canon site), or a MILC one that is continually adding new lenses and bodies all the time?   

Not only are those MILC bodies representative of a platform that has a future, but they already surpass the performance of many of the higher-end models of the DSLR platform - IBIS, face and eye tracking, better sensors to mention just a few.  I dealt with this at some length but it doesn't seem to gain traction for you.

Yes, one might well spend less on DSLR gear, and there is a lot of it out there right now and for good reason, but that does not make it the best choice for someone starting out.  As to EF lenses, one can use them on an R-series body via an adapter (I still shoot with them from time to time) but that will not work out the other way.  MILC bodies will still work with optics to be released in the future - both by Canon and likely third-party suppliers - there are strong indications that Sigma will make some sort of announcement about RF mount lenses in February, for example.

I get your points of view, but I think you tend to cherry pick items to support your case - like confusing professional needs and characteristics with those of starters.  Many of the things you say are necessary are, IMHO, not so.  If the OP wants them they can get those at a later date when they have proven the have outgrown their initial gear.  

In the end we are both expressing points of view and that is not a bad thing, I think we need to wait to get some feedback from our OP rather than beat the topic to death.


cheers, TREVOR

The mark of good photographer is less what they hold in their hand, it's more what they hold in their head;
"All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

"now I live in NZ"

I'm jealous, freezing in Chicago.

I will not go into a lengthy response because I must not be clearly articulating my thoughts. I'm not cherry picking and I'm not arguing, I am simply offering options which differ from yours. The perfect example is: I believe a CarePak would benefit a starter much more than someone that has owned equipment for many years.

We know to stay clear of the sensor, how to setup or bring the camera back to factory setting, maintaining the lens contact points and most importantly to ensure that the equipment is securely handled and stored. A lot of room for mistakes as a starter. But if you did not buy the CarePak your have $ 400 to work with and I would have a little over $700. If that's the case you could take that 100-400mm out of your purchase plan and add 150-600mm and extend your reach.

I simply believe in options and as I already stated the 90D continues to be a fan favorite, great price point, is rugged and takes incredible images. You believe that ship has or should have sailed. I'm OK with that but know that but believe I should be able to express my opinions without people believing I have a secret agenda or an axe to grind. My goal was to simply give a different perspective and offer options.

And confusing professional needs and characteristics with those of starters, I believe that again I did not clearly articulate my thoughts or you possibly misinterpreted what I stated. Using the 90D as the example, I believe this body would suit both the professional and novice well, simple, rugged, easy user interface, large sensor and the options for glass are vast. 

It was good talking to you Trevor.

Again, no disrespect intended but we can agree to disagree.


Marc
Windy City

R3 ~ R5 ~ R6 Mk II ~ R50
Lenses: RF Trinity and others
Adobe and Topaz Suite for post processing

Personal Gallery

Collegial? Not hardly verbose, yes.

 

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

"...  I would not invest in DSLR equipment at this point, especially so if starting out new.

Even if they are not strictly "legacy" now, they will be in a very short time (e.g. as such cameras get closer to the 10 year mark).  Note that 10 years is not an absolute; it could be shorter.

The only exception is that if one already has DSLR equipment and employ workflows that are very specific to them."  

Spot on and great simple advice 🤔

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

March411
Mentor
Mentor

"I have always maintained that if a camera or lens produces great images, it will continue to do the same as long as it is not damaged."

I would strongly agree!


Marc
Windy City

R3 ~ R5 ~ R6 Mk II ~ R50
Lenses: RF Trinity and others
Adobe and Topaz Suite for post processing

Personal Gallery

But that's not the point of our differences.  If one already had made an investment in that equipment, I would seek a reason to change, but in this case that is not true.  So it is not a case of enjoying what one has, it's all about what is the best investment for the budget, the purpose now and in the future.  The DSLR is definitely not the future...

I shall leave it at that.


cheers, TREVOR

The mark of good photographer is less what they hold in their hand, it's more what they hold in their head;
"All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

I totally agree. I still use a DSLR and will until it or I die. However, it has to be said that starting form ground zero mirrorless is the logical way to go.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

March411
Mentor
Mentor

Again we can agree to disagree. DSLR maintains a 30% market share and as you stated if it's still working....

And just a thought, the market saturation of EF equipment may be due to the fact that the DSLR market was established 1987 with the rollout of EOS. I was told by a Canon rep they sold somewhere around 3 million units annually since that rollout. I didn't ask if that was world wide or US sales.

Some of what you posted to support your position for MILC is not in line with a novice/beginner. The functionality and learning curve is much greater on the MILC and may diminish a persons enthusiasm.

It is better to keep something simple, rather than complicated, its the KISS theory


Marc
Windy City

R3 ~ R5 ~ R6 Mk II ~ R50
Lenses: RF Trinity and others
Adobe and Topaz Suite for post processing

Personal Gallery

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