Thanks for posting this as a new thread, that helps us to help you.
Given you are new at this, the first thing to do is avoid manual mode for the time being. I would suggest using Av mode - which is aperture priority mode, and to set the ISO value to auto. (You can actually set a maximum ISO value for this in the menu system, and I would recommend no more than 3200). This means that the camera will control for you, two out of the three variables that you need to set. Since the aperture has a major impact on Depth of Field (DoF): how much of your image is in focus, this is how you isolate objects so that they are seen as the subject. The simple rule for relating the aperture value to Depth of Filed is that the smaller the f/value, the less DoF you have, but the more light is let in, so the camera can set a faster shutter speed, for example.
The next thing to realize is that autofocus has many options. The default autofocus will lock onto the nearest significant object and that may not be the one you want to actually have in focus. The standard method for doing this is to isolate the subject (you might zoom in to make it large in the display), and then HALF-PRESS the shutter button to lock focus. While continuing to half-press the shutter, recompose the subject within the image and fully press the shutter button. Don't press hard - the force of doing so will likely move the camera.
A lot of people, myself included, actually set the camera up for something called Back Button Focusing (BBF). You can find numerous videos for this on You Tube, but I recommend looking at Canon DSLR-specific ones to make sure the menus match. What this essentially does is allow you to find your subject, focus on it, and lock that setting by tapping a button on the rear, usually marked AF-ON. You can also lock exposure using the * button, and that allows you to control how light or dark the image will be. You can combine this with setting the focus system to select one focus point in the centre and the BBF will lock that for you. The benefit is that for a photo such as your example, you can focus on the baby's eye (which is the critical point), lock focus on that and recompose your image before taking the shot. This is used a lot by both portrait and wildlife photographers.
If you are keen to learn I would suggest looking at your local library on-line catalogue for an item called LinkedIn Learning. This is a site full of high-quality videos from professionals that will take you through all aspects of photography from the basics to very advanced subjects. The lessons are well set up and easy to follow. If you find the item in the library catalogue, that means you free access to an otherwise pay site. You open the link to gain access to the logon page and use your library credentials to access the site. Once there, just search for Photography to see a list of topics (it's massive). I recommend starting with Photography Fundamentals with Ben Long. Even if you don't have free access via your library, you can get a month free by going directly to the site, whichg is: https://www.linkedin.com/learning-login
cheers, TREVOR
The mark of good photographer is less what they hold in their hand, it's more what they hold in their head;
"All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris
