I would drop the ISO to 400. My preferred aperture is around 8.0 or 9.1. I won't say other apertures and ISOs are wrong as obviously they work for others and their equipment. Since you have set your aperture and ISO, you only need to worry about the shutter speed. With still life that isn't much of a problem provided nothing is moving.
Move the lights back and turn them onto the products. In the sample shot, you are wasting the light by having it bounce away from the camera. Let the lights reflect off the products to the camera. That usually means closer to the axis of the camera. That also helps remove stray light reflecting into the lens. Make sure your backdrop is non reflective. I would use more distance between the subject and the backdrop, but that is something you might need to play with. My suggestion is having the lights at 90 degrees to each other with the camera in the center at 45 degrees to the lights.
A tripod is preferred in still life and is required with slow shutter speeds. If you don't have one, then using a folded up blanket or large towel on a platform or table can work. Either use a remote shutter or set the camera for delayed shutter. That removes any camera shake caused by pressing the button. Using a table and recording straight to a computer also helps and you can see right away what you have.
While an expensive, graphite $350 tripod is nice, you just need something that is steady. If someone else is buying, get the expensive one. If you're buying, then anything in your price range can be made to work. A hint with the cheaper tripods is to bend the legs out a bit. That helps to stop any vibration. Collapsing the tripod and setting it on a table beside a computer works too.
I prefer a longer lens (EF 100mm, f-2.8) set up a few feet from the subject. That opens up my depth of field somewhat. It also allows room to rearrange the display as required without bumping the tripod. However, as mentioned, even a kit zoom lens will work if that is all you have. If the subject is small, such as a ring, you will want to use a macro lens and get closer. For something very small, get closer but at least 25% further away than the minimum focus. So if your minimum focus is 20", set up 25" from the lens to the subject.
If you are doing a lot of different subjects, use small cards with the part number or description on them. Place the card at the edge of the shot. That way when you go through them later you can identify what the object is. Crop out the card and label the photo with the part number. Last year I led a team photographing everything in our warehouse for a sales catalogue. That trick came in handy.
Just remember there is no "only way" to do it. If my suggestions work for you then great. If you like someone else ideas then go for it. Just do what works the best for you and trial and error helps a lot.
Good luck.
