My T2i has a shift to blue which can be corrected in photoshop. No cause. How can it be fixed?

[Econprof79]

Just came out of no where. It may have been gradual but not sure. The camera was droped two days before this happened. Nithing else is wrong on the camera. I have been told it is the senor or the board. But not sure it can be a board since solid state is either working or not.

Any suggestions on how to fix it. A $200 repair bill seems over the top since I could live with it if need be

Thanks for any suggestions

Cheers

FT

[cicopo]

Verify that your White Balance setting is AWB or whatever you used before this crept in. 

[Econprof79]

The current setting is sRGB. There is only one other choice: adobe RBG. I think it was sRBB previopulsy.

The white balance setting is dead center on the grid between the 4 axis. I have not tried to used the custom white setting which might be an option if you think that will work. Or I could fiddle with shifting the white balance grid to the RED or GREEN, if you think that would work

I was going to photgraph a pure white sheet of paper to see if the blue shift shows up. But I tried that briefly and it doesn;t seem to even though it clealry shows up in a landscape especially w shadows and with people skin tones.

Thanks for the suggestion but perhaps you could comment on the above

Cheers

FT

[RobertTheFat]

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@Econprof79 wrote:

The current setting is sRGB. There is only one other choice: adobe RBG. I think it was sRBB previopulsy.

The white balance setting is dead center on the grid between the 4 axis. I have not tried to used the custom white setting which might be an option if you think that will work. Or I could fiddle with shifting the white balance grid to the RED or GREEN, if you think that would work

I was going to photgraph a pure white sheet of paper to see if the blue shift shows up. But I tried that briefly and it doesn;t seem to even though it clealry shows up in a landscape especially w shadows and with people skin tones.

Thanks for the suggestion but perhaps you could comment on the above

Cheers

FT

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You need to spend some time with your user manual. "sRGB" is a color gamut setting; it has nothing to do with white balance. And the white balance setting that Cicopo was referring to has values like "Daylight", "Cloudy", "Shade", and "Auto"; it isn't a point on a graph between red and green. The blue cast that you're seeing could be a symptom of a WB setting of "Tungsten" applied to a picture taken in daylight. In any event, you have to know what the terms mean in order to make sense of anything we might be able to suggest.

[Econprof79]

Thanks for the suggestion I now see what you were refering to. The camera was set at fluorescent (4200K) not AWB. Daylight is 5000k and tungsten is 3200K. Is the 4200k setting enough to provide a blue shift, especially in shadows (which I think is suppose to be set at 7000k? 

Also do you recommned AWB vs manually setting for each situation. I am curious how the AWB knows it is shooting in shade or indoors.

Thanks

FT

[RobertTheFat · Accepted solution]

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@Econprof79 wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion I now see what you were refering to. The camera was set at fluorescent (4200K) not AWB. Daylight is 5000k and tungsten is 3200K. Is the 4200k setting enough to provide a blue shift, especially in shadows (which I think is suppose to be set at 7000k? 

Also do you recommned AWB vs manually setting for each situation. I am curious how the AWB knows it is shooting in shade or indoors.

Thanks

FT

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I've always used AWB, but I shoot only in RAW mode and therefore can adjust the color later if necessary. AFAIK, the camera just looks at the overall color temperature of the scene and chooses its WB setting accordingly. The better cameras do a better job, but all of them get it fairly close most of the time. The one possible drawback to AWB is that whenever you make an adjustment in post-processing, you're subtracting light, so there's a good chance that you'll have to turn up the brightness. So if you know that you're using only a particular type of light and you don't trust the camera to get it right, setting the WB manually might give you a better exposure.

BTW, in Canonland daylight is 5200K, but you're right that tungsten is 3200. (My own experience, though, is that tungsten light can range down as low as 2500K.) I don't believe Canon's "white fluorescent" setting has a defined color temperature; it's biased to correct for an imbalance in most white fluorescents that leaves images with a color cast. (I believe it's either pink or green.) So that's a bad setting to choose manually unless you're sure of your light source.

[ebiggs1]

Just reset your camera to factory defaults. See your manual as to how but removing the battery(s) for a while will do it.  That way you will know if it is you or the camera.

[ScottyP]

AWB is a safe bet in most situations. As Robert says, the ability to tune WB in post is one huge argument in favor of shooting RAW. I sometimes set a WB anyway to reduce headaches and save time in post. Particularly if there is one kind of light I will be in for the whole shoot (cloudy day or sunny day or shade for example).
I also use Daylight WB if I am shooting in the "golden hour" before sundown because AWB will wipe out and neutralize much of the nice lovely warm tones, which seems a shame even though you could artificially warm the image back up in post.