@amatula wrote:
Thank you! This is all very helpful.
I just figured out how to post images.:) Here are two. To note: with both I used an older Sunpack UV filter. Both were hand-held.
Settings were:
Barn: ISO 200 F16 125 Manual mode
Other snow scene ISO 100 F22 80 Manual mode (wind was not blowing but note that the snow on the bottom of the photo appears blurred)
Metering for both -- center weighed
Picture style: standard
Image quality set to Large/Fine
I have other photos without the filter that have the same issue with not total sharpness throughout the photo.
With all photos I have the camera set to 18 mm
I am thinking of purchasing the 2.8 lens or an 1.8 but just want to be sure I can successfully photograph with this lens first.
Again, I really appreciate the help -- I do not recall these issues with my old Nikon film SLRs; so it is a new learning experience for me!
Annie
Buying an f/1.8 or f/2.8 lens will do nothing to help your images as the issue is you are using too small of an aperture (too high f/number).
One thing coming from a film camera to an APS-C digital camera that you have to understand is that all of the apertures you are use to using shift by one f/stop. So f/16 on your digital Rebel will give you the same depth of field as using f/22 on a film camera. And the same applies to diffraction so f/22 on your Rebel gives you the same amount of diffraction as using f/32 on your film camera.
Diffraction sets in early when using an APS-C sesnor. Optimum sharpness with your lens at 18mm is at f/5.6 and the further you stop down past that the more diffraction impacts the photo and the less sharp your image becomes. So it becomes a balancing act between maximum sharpness and adequate depth of field.
At wider angles lenses have a very large depth of field. I would suggest at 18mm you try using f/8. This still gives you a very large depth of field from about 4 ft to infinity, and will reduce diffraction as a factor in your image sharpness.
You also might want to try using the 'Landscape' picture style as this gives a little more sharpening.
edit: I would also try to bracket the distance of your focus point until you get more comfortable with the performance of your new gear. (i.e. bracket 5 shots with the focus varying between 5 feet and 1/3 of the way into the photo) Unlike with film this doesn't cost you anything, but, time.
