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EOS RP photo aren't as sharp the ones from my EOS M50

kingsahibkhan
Apprentice

Hey i realized that a lot of my RP photos arent as sharp as my M50 at further distances and a lot of times my RP photos are blurry and i never experienced the same with my M50. 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ggc239v1EpPc3rZ9zn2lJ78--hZNbHOf?usp=sharing

The picture at the pier was with RF lenses and as you can see it cannot focus well at all. The other pictures are with a EF 50mm. The clarity of the walking person in with the m50 is just far higher than the people in the RP photo. Please take a look and see if you agree. (zooming in makes the biggest difference.)

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

p4pictures
Whiz
Whiz

I have had a look at the 10 CR3 images on the google drive folder. I have a couple of observations to add to the excellent points raised by my colleagues above.

From the images all that are with the EOS RP use Neutral picture style, the EOS M50 use auto picture style. This might account for two elements, the flat colours of the EOS RP images but also the sharpness difference. When set to Neutral style the sharpening is set to zero. A camera set to auto picture style chooses between standard, portrait and landscape, all three of these have sharpening set to more than 0. I found a sharpening value of 4 in each of the M50 files. Since I had the RAW images, I selected auto picture style for the EOS RP images and this improved the colour and the sharpness of all of them.

Next I noticed that the framing of two shots looked similar. M50 gas station.CR3 and RP gas station.CR3. When I checked the EOS RP was set to 1.6x crop mode, so then we are comparing a 6000 x 4000 pixel M50 image with a 3888 x 2592 pixel RP image. I'm not surprised to see a different level of detail in the two pictures.

I noticed that some shots are captured with high aperture values, mostly on the EOS RP, this can lead to diffraction loss and the EF 50mm f/1.8 STM is not at it's best when heavily stopped down.

My suggestion to more accurately compare the images is much the same as the others above.

Standardise the test images, use a tripod to mount the cameras. Set both to the same exposure, AF and Picture Style settings. 


Brian
EOS specialist trainer, photographer and author
-- Note: my spell checker is set for EN-GB, not EN-US --

View solution in original post

37 REPLIES 37

its not shake, even on a hard surface, with a timer, wuth single spot focus,  the pictures are blurry from a distance. 

kingsahibkhan
Apprentice

I uploaded photos from today. For two of them(the pic of the 2 ladies and the pic of the woman all the way in the back)  the camera was on a 2 second timer on a hard surface. For the one labeled cuzzo, he was sat only 10 feet away from me and came out very soft. 

Tronhard
VIP
VIP

I have spent some time looking at the new photos and I agree they definitely are not as sharp as I would expect.
However, it would be helpful to do the analysis if you can approach this is a scientific basis such as:
*  try to shoot something constant that we can compare in a static form so we can really eliminate the variables - something like a brick wall, with clear hard points vertically and horizontally.
*  since you are still shooting using the LCD, can you PLEASE try shooting the same scene, with the same settings (put it in M mode) and use BOTH the LCD and then the EVF, using the technique we have suggested.  I get you want to shoot with the LCD, but that's not helping us isolate the issue if you keep that variable running.
*  While you shot Girl Sitting Down image using a timer, I am not sure of the stability of the ledge on which the camera was perched.  If you shoot a static object can you try placing the camera on a box or other solid, flat object.

These are pretty standard procedures for testing image quality and I would be doing the same myself.  I'm not trying to say this to annoy you, I am trying to get rid of the variables.  Also, please don't change the names of the images, it is easier to sort and isolate them by file name

Finally, a few questions about the gear to drill down into that.

What brand adapter is the EF-RF adapter?
Are you using any filters on your lenses, if so what type and brand please?
(try taking images without any filters attached and identify them as such)
Is there anything wrong with your EVF that you cannot use it?

Did you purchase the RP new or used?
If used, did you test the camera before accepting it, and if so, were the images sharp?
Did it ever take sharp images?  If so, has anything happened since then to the camera?


cheers, TREVOR

The mark of good photographer is less what they hold in their hand, it's more what they hold in their head;
"All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

I bought it used but i did test it but i never really tested anything that was a far distance away. In fact i just looked over all the photos i didnt delte since i bought the RP and only things at a distance are blurry, everything that seems to be within 5-10 feet usually comes out perfectly fine or slightly soft, thats with the EF 50mm and the RP 24-105... Its as if the camera can compute whats in front of it but once somewthing goes further away it just struggles. 

So, for all we know the camera is damaged.  Let's hope not...

In the meantime, until you try the shots as I suggested, you can answer my questions about the gear - are you using any filters on the lenses?


cheers, TREVOR

The mark of good photographer is less what they hold in their hand, it's more what they hold in their head;
"All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

No filters, Viltrox adapter, I did do EVF and same issue, the techniques( honestly i realized its just the basic stuff i always do when i put a bigger lens on my m50) did nothing for me, i never said i cannot use it  I just prefer LCD...

Look its not the shake, i tried out my cousins R10 which weighs close to that of the RP and my pohotos came out fine on it(even a bit better than my m50). Its 90% the body or the firmware. 

I would discontinue the use of the 3rd Party Mount adapter. Use the Canon brand Mount adapters. 3rd Party Mount adapters cause all sorts of problems. Those are known to cause problems. At one point Canon forced 3rd Parties to drop their Mount adapters and lenses. Also you should be using One Shot instead of Servo AF. Servo AF has no focus lock like One Shot does. In Servo AF the camera will fire the shutter even if the picture isn't in focus. What aperture are you shooting at on the RP. If it's a very wide open aperture such as F/2.8 the shallow depth of field is causing things to be out of focus. So I'd stop down to something smaller. Such as F/7.1 or F/8 to see if it improves.

-Demetrius
Bodies: EOS 40D (Retired) & EOS 5D Mark IV (Current)
Lenses: EF Trinity, EF 50mm F/1.8 STM, EF 70-210mm F/4 (Brought out of Retirement) & EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
Speedlites: 420EX, 470EX-AI, 550EX & 600EX II-RT

Yea, it wont change the issue. I used the same setup on the R10 and the difference was huge. This RP has issues.

The R10 just like the M50 is a crop sensor camera. You won't have the same shallow depth of field as the RP. For instance F/1.8 on a crop sensor camera will not have the same shallow depth of field as a Full Frame camera. So you really can't compare the 2 different sensor sizes. Unless you stop down the lens more on the RP.

-Demetrius
Bodies: EOS 40D (Retired) & EOS 5D Mark IV (Current)
Lenses: EF Trinity, EF 50mm F/1.8 STM, EF 70-210mm F/4 (Brought out of Retirement) & EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
Speedlites: 420EX, 470EX-AI, 550EX & 600EX II-RT

I dont know, in the new photos i put up the f stop was high f11-f14ish, that didnt fix anything.

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