cancel
Showing results for 
Show  only  | Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

7D Mark ii

LesWurse
Enthusiast

I have a 7D Mark ii on the way (with some sort of manual) and am wondering if there is a good "how to" source for learning how to print out 10 fps shots on my Windows PC laserjet printer.

Thanks in advance,

leswurse

3 ACCEPTED SOLUTIONS

"Explore the "proof sheet" features of some post editing software."

 

The proof sheet feature will do what you want.  It is the same exact thing as a contact sheet.  Lightroom can do this easily.  Just a few mouse clicks and it is done for you.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

View solution in original post

Yes - I just finished reading an article about burst rate vs fps and "throughput" speeds. Sounds like I'll have to invest in some serious heavy duty memory cards.

Thank you all for your help!

leswurse

View solution in original post

I have a 7D2 - unless the football play ends within 2 seconds, your buffer will stall if you're shooting RAW.  Plus, at roughly 25MB per frame, you'll fill your cards pretty fast.  Use JPG. 

 

Most venues (football, baseball, soccer, etc) I shoot 700-1,500 frames - most at 10fps. Most bursts are less than 10 frames.

 

For the single shots or 3-5 frame clips that you know you want to really sweat over, shoot both RAW and JPG.  Do some experimentation for yourself - shoot both.  Then in post, process both and see if the time spent, disk space taken, and buffer limits reached justify - for you - shooting RAW over JPG.

 

If you're doing portraits or landscapes, or just about anything but action, use RAW if you're into post processing.

 

Get & READ - 7D-Mark-II-AF-Guide.

 

Read and study the Cases.  Mr Biggs is correct - if you're steady enough and you can use the single center focus point, do so.  If not, use the expanded center (4-8 surrounding the center). The zones are OK, but you'll get focus on the wrong subjects enough to make you frustrated - especially if you are zoomed in.

 

Above all - read these boards and ask questions.

 

 

PJ
(Grampy)



"Photography is a money-sucking black hole, and I'm approaching the event horizon"

View solution in original post

12 REPLIES 12

...one more thing...(heh...heh...):smileytongue:

 

When you're shooting action you're probably in AI SERVO.  If you start shooting BEFORE the players actually start moving (like your focus point is on the QB and you start shooting to capture the center hiking the ball) AI SERVO is expecting movement and will actually rack the focus in & out after the first exposure until it senses movement.  It's not much, but just enough to soften the focus.  Once the moving, AI SERVO will lock on and track.  You'll be better off if you change a button (I use the "*" button) to switch to ONE SHOT when pressed.  That way, with the button pressed the focus won't change while there's no actual movement, then release it when movement starts and let AI SERVO take over.

 

Also, make sure you're on CASE 2, or have at least set tracking sensitivity to -1 so that as the player of interest is momentarily blocked by the referee or another player, focus won't shift to the interfering object.

 

 

PJ
(Grampy)



"Photography is a money-sucking black hole, and I'm approaching the event horizon"

Thank you - yet another technique I need to print out and practice with. It's obvious you have developed some really effective approaches to live action photos.  I'll be back with stories of successes, failures and more questions.

Regards,

leswurse

"Explore the "proof sheet" features of some post editing software."

 

The proof sheet feature will do what you want.  It is the same exact thing as a contact sheet.  Lightroom can do this easily.  Just a few mouse clicks and it is done for you.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!
Announcements