What are your thoughts or practises as it pertains to using filters on your lenses

[March411]

The topic continues to show up and we always get a couple of responses. I'm hoping this thread will build a consensus from the members that frequent the community to assist guests that come to the site looking for assistance.

I do use a high quality clear filter (B+W) when I am shooting in areas where dirt, sand or water may be thrown onto the front element of the lens.

For the most part I don't use any filters unless I'm looking to achieve a special effect. Three I always have with me are  infrared (IR), Graduated Neutral Density (GND) or Circular Polarizer (CPL). These normally get mounted in the field. I always use a hood, mostly to protect the front element against damage. 

[justadude]

"I'm curious what situations you would use the CPL and whether my use case of haze is one of them."


I know you weren't asking me, but I'll offer my two cents.  Haze is the only reason I use them these days.  A hazy day by the Great Lakes, they really help quite a bit.  When I lived in Colorado, and when I visited again last year, the CPL was on my lenses just about every time we went up into the mountains.  They really help keeping distant peaks from being washed out against the closer peaks.  

[March411]

My results this far have been mixed and I have been sidelined because of weather and a new hip. I would say that right now I haven't been overjoyed with the results but you have pointed out why I may be having some challenges.

I'll most likely be reaching out to your for some help and I appreciate the offer.

[SignifDigits]

Always happy to get any advice.  Sounds like my application for using the CPL. Thanks!

[ebiggs1]

" I know some people with monochrome sensor cameras that do use some color filters for effects, that's a different thing."

They should learn how to use Photoshop. Photoshop editing adjustments offer greater precision and flexibility than a fixed spec color filter. The only one that is difficult do miminc in PS is the ND.

[justadude]

"The only one that is difficult do miminc in PS is the ND"


Add the infrared filters to this.  You can do fake infrared in Photoshop, but to people that shoot infrared, the fake IR stands out pretty badly.  

[ebiggs1]

"You can do fake infrared in Photoshop, but to people that shoot infrared, the fake IR stands out pretty badly."

Any filter effect in Photoshop depends on how adapt the user is at using PS. I am good at PS but I have friends that use it for their living which make me look like rank beginner. I doubt anyone with less PS experience could tell if it was real or if it was PS.

And, "The only one that is difficult do miminc in PS is the ND", not impossible just more difficult especially if the location where you are shooting is difficult. I.E., if the camera can't get the shot you can't edit it in PS.

The fact that it is more and more difficult, to even impossible, to tell if an image has been altered or edited in PS, or is in fact 'as shot' is going to be a problem in the future. A real problem. You can see this already going on and it is only in its infancy now.

[SignifDigits]

Filters are an interesting and controversial subject, especially when brands are brought up and specifications.  There really just a few primary manufacturers of the glass: 

• Schott (Germany - generally considered the best - owned by Carl-Zeiss-Stiftung) 
• Hoya (Japan) 
• AGC (Asahi Glass Company - Japan)
• NiSi (China)

Depending up on the grade you could easily find more than one of these within a company product line.  Hoya is rumored to have used Schott B270 glass in their NXT Plus filters.  And since Hoya manufactures glass I think that's pretty high praise for Schott glass.  So my filter selection is limited to those using Schott glass.  Schott, like many others, offers varieties - B270 being the most commonly used, but also Xensation and BK7 (the latter two used by Marumi, as well as B270).   

Anyway, in trusting glass to be "flat" (and parallel) I am personally persuaded that Schott delivers that most consistently.  I believe those that use Schott glass include (definitely not a full list):

• B+W (MRC and Nano)
• Heliopan (may be the the only brand is 100% Schott glass)
• Breakthrough (X3 and X4)
• Marumi (Exus Mark II Lens Protect, DHG Super Lens Protect, DHG ND 64) 
• Hoya (formerly NXT Plus, but perhaps not now)

So then it comes down to coatings for glass.  That is most often outsourced on lower end filters.  That doesn't mean it's bad.  Zeiss may be the one doing the coatings for others, for instance and they are top-notch.  Those that perform it in-house claim a "leg up" over the competition as their coatings are proprietary.  Sometimes, no doubt, that is true.  All of those that use Schott glass claim to perform their own in-house lens coatings.  I would personally not hesitate to purchase any of those above, except Hoya.

I personally prefer Schott glass and no longer buy Hoya. That said, they would definitely be in second place.

Now that I went and spend all that $$ and energy on filters I pretty much screw them off first thing before I shoot.  I might as well have bought the Amazon brand.  But, since I'm imperfect and mess up all of the time and sometimes forget to screw them off, perhaps so good filters is a good thing!  I've definitely experienced entropy, and sometimes even cause it for others.

[JFG]

Good afternoon everyone,

Like shadowsports, I keep a good clear filter on every lens I own.  I do it primarily to protect my lenses from dust, smudges, scratches, water, oils etc..  It's a personal choice to use a lens filter or not, and I respect all that use one or don't use one.  Having said that I'd like to clarify that a high-quality clear filter that transmits 99% of light can affect sharpness, but whether you'll see the effect depends entirely on the filter's optical quality, not the light transmission number.  Factors that actually affect sharpness are: 1) Glass quality, is the real defining factor.  Cheap filters introduce micro-aberrations, reduced contrast, and softening.  Premium filters (B+W, Hoya HD, Breakthrough, Canon Protect) use optically flat, polished glass that keep sharpness essentially unchanged.  2) Coatings:  Multi-coated filters reduce flare and ghosting.  Poor coatings give veiling haze and perceived softness.  3) Flatness and parallelism occurs when the filter isn't perfectly flat or parallel, it bends light slightly and softens fine details. This is the biggest difference between a $15 filter and $90 one.  4) Light transmission and sharpness:  99% transmission only tells you how much light passes through, it does not tell you:  How flat the glass is; How well it's polished;  How good the coatings are and whether it introduces aberrations.  Real-world takeaway: High-end Clear/UV filters show No visible sharpness loss on modern sensors, even 45-60MP.  Low-end filters give Noticeable softness, flare, and reduced contrast, especially shooting into light.  lf you want protection without image degradation, stick to top-tier protective filters.  I'm very careful with my stuff, however shet happens.  

You baby your gear like it's a newborn made of glass and unicorn tears.  You use lens caps religiously.  You clean it with microfiber cloths softer than an angel wings.  You store everything in padded  bags that could survive low-orbit reentry,  And then, the universe rolls its eyes.  Because the moment you're extra careful, that's when the chaos gods clock in.  You tip toe around puddles and step straight into one while saving the camera.  You wrap the strap around your wrist three times and still manage to clothesline yourself.  You check the lens cap twice and somehow shoot an entire session with it still on.  You baby the lens and the cheap filter you added for "protection" decides to shatter out of spite.  You set the camera down gently and gravity says, "Cute. Watch this".  It's like the universel whispers, "Oh, you're being careful? Adorable.  Let me introduce you to entropy."  But hey, if nothing ever went wrong, we'd have fewer stories, fewer laughs, and way fewer reasons to buy new gear.  And we photographers do love new gear.

CameraCarelesAMyth, HandledWithLoveDroppedByLife, EntropyHatesPhotographers, ShetHappensIn4K, MicroFiberAndMayhem, TheUniverseSaysHoldMyBeer, GearBab.ysitterPrlobems...

[ebiggs1]

"I believe those that use Schott glass include (definitely not a full list):

• B+W (MRC and Nano)
• Heliopan (may be the the only brand is 100% Schott glass)
• Breakthrough (X3 and X4)
• Marumi (Exus Mark II Lens Protect, DHG Super Lens Protect, DHG ND 64) 
• Hoya (formerly NXT Plus, but perhaps not now)"

You've used and tested all these brands of filters. My hat is off to you for that.

[ebiggs1]

"But hey, if nothing ever went wrong, we'd have fewer stories, fewer laughs, and way fewer reasons to buy new gear."

OSHA used to come into the plant where I worked to check out all the machinery. After they got through with all the safety measures nobody got hurt on the equipment for sure. They made it so safe we couldn't use it. Perhaps not 100% camera/lens but it does demonstrate a point.