Every lens lists the minimum focus distance possible with that particular lens. There is a mark on the camera body which represents the position of the sensor plane. The mark looks like a circle with a line drawn through it horizontally (the horizontal line marks the plane of the film (for film cameras) or sensor plane (for digital cameras). On your T5 that mark is located next to the point where the neck strap attaches to the left side of the camera body (printed on the top of camera).
The minimum focus distance (MFD) is measured from that mark. So if a lens says it's minimum focus distance is (I'll just make up a number) 2 feet away... then the subject must be at least 2 feet from that mark.
There are, of course, ways to shoot subjects at even closer distances (which should be readily apparent based on the number of close-up images you've probably seen).
There are a handful of ways to do this and a variety of price points.
1. One of the least expensive ways is the use of a "close-up diopter" or "close-up filter". This is a piece of glass that threads onto the front of your camera lens. Think of it like reading glasses for your camera (because that's basically exactly what it is). Just like reading glasses, it lets the camera focus closer than is otherwise possible. They aren't very expensive, but there is a downside... you might notice a very slight degradation in optical quality near the edge of the glass and an effect called color fringing (the technical name is "chromatic aberration" and is usually just abbreviated as "CA"). This is the effect that you get when you shine a line through a prism (as any Pink Floyd fans would have seen on the Dark Side of the Moon album cover).
Canon makes two different higher quality (but also more expensive) close-up filters that use two optical elements instead of one. They are optically arranged to create something called an "achromatic doublet" where the second element is shaped completely different and exists for the sole purpose of correcting for the CA problem. It delivers sharper close-up images than any single-element close-up filter.
2. Another method is the use of something called an "extension tube". Extension tubes are also very inexpensive because they don't contain any glass. It literally is just a hollow barrel. You attach it between the lens and camera body and it's purpose is simply to position the lens farther away. When you position a lens farther away, you naturally shift the entire focus range of that lens closer. This substantially reduces the minimum focus distance... but it also shifts the maximum focus distance closer (meaning the lens will not focus to "infinity" when an extension tube is attached.)
While you can find some VERY cheap extension tubes, there are some minimums... the cheapest have absolutely no electronics at all and that's not good because it means the camera body cannot communicate with the lens. Not only can it not control the focus motors (not a big deal if you plan to manually focus anyway) but it also means the camera body cannot control the aperture blades (and that IS a big deal if you want good exposures and more depth of field.)
So if you look at extension tubes, make sure they have the electronic contacts to pass through the communication between body and lens.
3. The best way is also the most expensive way... this involves using a true "macro" lens. Some zoom lenses have a "macro" range, and those lenses focus closer, but not nearly as close as a true macro lens (a true macro is never also a zoom lens). The least expensive true macro (by Canon) that works with your camera is the Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM. I think it's around $400 but it does produce incredibly sharp images. True macro lenses are typically designed to resolve very fine detail and will typically appear to be noticeably sharper than other lenses.
There are more ways such as free-lensing, lens reversing mounts, etc. but those have problems of their own. If you want something a bit more straight-forward I'd suggest:
a) get the close-up diopter a if on a budget (usually $25-75 depending on brand, etc.)
b) if funds can stretch a little more, get the Canon 250D Close-up lens. This is about $90 and it's hands-down the best close-up diopter on the market (nobody else makes a doublet configuration).
BTW, close-up filters have to be ordered in the diameter that matches your lens' filter threads. If you pop off the lens cap, usually the diameter is printed on the inside. For the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II lens that came with most Canon T5 cameras, that size is a 58mm diameter thread.
c) If you can afford to spend more money, the Canon EF-S 60-mm f/2.89 Macro USM is a much better solution. But that's a full lens (not just a filter) and the cost is about $470 (unless you can catch a sale, buy a refurb, find it used, etc.)
Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da
