I find that my pictures are very noisy even in the focus area

[KLM2801]

I find that my pictures are noisy to look at in the focus area in 100% and worse in 200% zoom.
I see it even with low ISO (ISO100) and using tripod.

Am I just expecting too much of a Rebel?

I shoot in manual mode, usually with auto focus in RAW.

I have a Canon T6s with the following lenses: Canon 50mm f1/4, 24-70mm f2/8L and 70-200mm f2/8L. The noise is there using all the lenses.

Should add that the Canon Service Center as looked at it and found that the adjustment of the AF assembly was incorrect, causing the focus to operate improperly. They made Electrical adjustments on the AF assembly. But I just can't see the difference on my photos before and now.

I have attached a few examples:

[Peter]

Without seeing a raw file it seems normal. 200% zoom is nothing you will need to use. About your AF, why don't you use the center point for a picture like that? Then no other AF points will interrupt.

To get less noise with a sensor from Canon you should:
1. Exposure to the right
2. Don't use wider aperture than f/2,8-f/4 because of the ISO boost.

3. Keep the sensor cool. Video recording will make the sensor warm.

[ebiggs1]

"Am I just expecting too much of a Rebel?"

Maybe, yes!  You have a real nice bag of lenses.  Remember noise is camera and resolution is lens.  At 200% you are bringing both into the photo.  If you need to crop to 200%, you need the get closer or use a longer lens.  That is asking a lot of both.

Photos exposed with "proper" light will exhibit less noise.  Pushing the exposure to either side of correct will start to bring issues to the photo.

A DSLR sensor has a limit as to the latitude it can render correctly.  This is called dynamic range or DR.

Shadows and highlights become more or less apparent depending upon the level of contrast in the scene. The level of contrast is determined by the quality of light. Hard of soft. Example of hard light is the Noon day Sun. Soft light is a cloudy day.

Since a camera can't capture the total DR.  One of two things happen.

1. Shows the detail in the shadows and over expose the highlights.
2. Shows the detail in the highlights and under expose the shadows

The key here is to fit your scene in that DR limit.  The rest you can handle in PS.  I see you are a PS user so you have the best there is to do your post editing.

[kvbarkley]

Think about it. at 100% zoom you are seeing a 1-1 relationship of pixels to screen. At 200 % the computer has to fill in half the data. You are testing your computer's interpolation, not your camera.

[KLM2801]

I have bought good lenses and I hope to buy a pro camera, maybe later when the new 5D is on the market. But I would like to deliver sharp photos in the meantime, that can be printed!

The reason I am talking about 200% is not that I want to crop that close. I am just using the zoom to check how well the photo will print. Some people have said to me if it is sharp in 200%, it is good for print. My photos are noisy at 100%... I have printed some posters and it does not look good.

I try to use proper exposure every time.  
Usually I first set the ISO depending on the light conditions, then my aperture, which I know should not be at it’s widest, then I adjust the shutter speed so the exposure is right. If my shutter speed gets to be too slow in achieving the right exposure, I go back and adjust the ISO and sometimes the aperture (which I know I sometimes get too wide).

I do many Taekwondo photos and it is usually in poor lighting conditions so I have a high ISO setting to achieve a faster shutter speed and I accept the photos to be a little under exposed, so I do some adjustment in LR and PS.
I expect some noise on these photos!

But not in well light conditions with low ISO setting and so on I don’t expect the amount of noise that I am getting right now.

I will do a more controlled tests today.

[Waddizzle]

"I have bought good lenses and I hope to buy a pro camera, maybe later when the new 5D is on the market. But I would like to deliver sharp photos in the meantime, that can be printed!" 

Not unless you are printing really large prints, and I mean really, really large, I think your photos should print out just fine at more conventional sizes: like 8x10, 4x6, or even 11x14.

[ebiggs1]

"... I do some adjustment in LR and PS."

You know about the NR feature in LR?  Do you use it?

"I have printed some posters and it does not look good."

Posters?  How big are "posters"?  Printing big can be the same thing as editing and observing at 200%.  This is tough for any camera.  If big posters are your deal, you may want to check out the 5Ds.  Mega pickles matter in this case.  The 5Ds has nearly 51 MP.

[KLM2801]

I use NR function in LR a lot and it does help!

I have been printing posters as big as 36*24.You guys are right, my 24.20 megapixels is not enough here!

I still can’t get pass the amount of noise I get on my photos viewing in 100%.

This one taken today: iso100, 120mm focal length, f/6.3, 0.4sec (on tripod with 2 sec delay).

[Peter]

Then upload a raw sample. You can use filedropper or dropbox.

[Waddizzle]

Whenever I want to be certain of critically sharp focus, I always manually focus by using LiveView on a tripod.  I have found that the AF system can get it very close, but not always, tack sharp at 200%.

The shot of the flowers is practically a macro shot.  Macro shots should be manually focused.  In fact, those flowers would have looked even better had you taken a series of macro-like shots, each focusing on a slightly different distance from the camera, and stacked them.  Below is a link for to an online tool for calculating depth of  field.

http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html

I have found that online DOF tool to be invaluable when planning many shots.