01-06-2014 05:23 PM
Recently, my EOS Rebel T3i is taking longer to take pictures than it used to 2 years ago when it was new. It takes longer to focus and eventually may not take the picture. It is frustrating to say the list. This happens when it's on Auto Focus.
Is there a way to reset the camera to its factory/original settings?
Thank you.
Kenorad
Solved! Go to Solution.
01-06-2014 06:24 PM
There is a way to reset back to factory settings... however that typically has little or nothing to do with the amount of time it takes the camera to focus.
The focus time is largely depending on the amount of available light on your subject... also the amount of "contrast" in your subject (subjects with complex structure or patterns are easier to focus on then plain surfaces (e.g. the sky... or a plain white wall would be an example of a low contrast subject.)
Also.. the amount of light that the lens collects is based on the lowest possible focal ratio for that lens. If you are using a kit lens (EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6) then your focal ratio is f/3.5 at the 18mm end... and f/5.6 at the 55mm end.) If you were to use... say... the EF 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 lens then it would collect SUBSTANTIALLY more light (the f/1.4 lens collects 16 times more light than a kit lens at the 50mm focal length... that's a HUGE difference.)
Lastly... are you forcing the camera to use a specific focus point or are you using a specific focus point. The center point can generally lock focus fastest. On your T3i, the center point is the only "cross type" focus point. All the other points are single-axis points.
01-06-2014 10:46 PM
It's mostly about the available light to focus. You don't necessarily *need* a low focal ratio lens (but it helps).
Also... many Canon speedlight flashes have focus-assist capabilities (even if you don't want to use the flash as a flash). E.g. a Speedlight 430EX II emits a red focus-assist beam that makes it very easy for the camera to focus on your subject even in the dark. The Speedlite 320EX has a visible (LED) light (not a red pattern beam).
Also... don't forget that it is actually OK to ask your subject to move over to a location with better light. This of course depends on what you're shooting... but if you are able to control where you shoot, you may as well move to a location where the available light favors the shot.
01-07-2014 01:02 PM - edited 01-07-2014 02:03 PM
Hi Kenorad,
You might try cleaning the electronic contacts on the rear of your lens. That can help with focus performance.
Usually it's finger or lubricating oils that get onto the contacts, which are gold plated so cannot oxidize or corrode. To safely clean the contacts, I recommend using a clean, soft rag lightly moistened with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (cheap "rubbing alcohol" is fine) to wipe the contacts. Just be sure to keep off the lens optics and don't touch the mirror or other things inside the camera. You might check that the spring loaded "pins" inside the camera, corresponding to the contacts on the lens. Gently press each of those pins. It should move and spring back out easily.
Also you mention using manually selected individual AF points... which is the most accurate method. On your camera the center AF point is more sensitive than the others, so when you need the best performance try to use only that one.
***********
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM
01-06-2014 06:24 PM
There is a way to reset back to factory settings... however that typically has little or nothing to do with the amount of time it takes the camera to focus.
The focus time is largely depending on the amount of available light on your subject... also the amount of "contrast" in your subject (subjects with complex structure or patterns are easier to focus on then plain surfaces (e.g. the sky... or a plain white wall would be an example of a low contrast subject.)
Also.. the amount of light that the lens collects is based on the lowest possible focal ratio for that lens. If you are using a kit lens (EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6) then your focal ratio is f/3.5 at the 18mm end... and f/5.6 at the 55mm end.) If you were to use... say... the EF 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 lens then it would collect SUBSTANTIALLY more light (the f/1.4 lens collects 16 times more light than a kit lens at the 50mm focal length... that's a HUGE difference.)
Lastly... are you forcing the camera to use a specific focus point or are you using a specific focus point. The center point can generally lock focus fastest. On your T3i, the center point is the only "cross type" focus point. All the other points are single-axis points.
01-06-2014 09:29 PM
This is very helpful. I am using the kit lens (EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6). Most often, I am forcing the camera to use a specific focus point. It appears that I will benefit more by using an f/1.8 or f/1.4 lens. That's my understanding, hope that is correct.
Thank you very much, Tim.
Kenorad.
01-06-2014 10:46 PM
It's mostly about the available light to focus. You don't necessarily *need* a low focal ratio lens (but it helps).
Also... many Canon speedlight flashes have focus-assist capabilities (even if you don't want to use the flash as a flash). E.g. a Speedlight 430EX II emits a red focus-assist beam that makes it very easy for the camera to focus on your subject even in the dark. The Speedlite 320EX has a visible (LED) light (not a red pattern beam).
Also... don't forget that it is actually OK to ask your subject to move over to a location with better light. This of course depends on what you're shooting... but if you are able to control where you shoot, you may as well move to a location where the available light favors the shot.
01-06-2014 11:35 PM
Excellent, Tim. You've been very helpful. I appreciate your help.
Ken
01-07-2014 01:02 PM - edited 01-07-2014 02:03 PM
Hi Kenorad,
You might try cleaning the electronic contacts on the rear of your lens. That can help with focus performance.
Usually it's finger or lubricating oils that get onto the contacts, which are gold plated so cannot oxidize or corrode. To safely clean the contacts, I recommend using a clean, soft rag lightly moistened with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (cheap "rubbing alcohol" is fine) to wipe the contacts. Just be sure to keep off the lens optics and don't touch the mirror or other things inside the camera. You might check that the spring loaded "pins" inside the camera, corresponding to the contacts on the lens. Gently press each of those pins. It should move and spring back out easily.
Also you mention using manually selected individual AF points... which is the most accurate method. On your camera the center AF point is more sensitive than the others, so when you need the best performance try to use only that one.
***********
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM
01-07-2014 01:09 PM
@amfoto1 wrote:Hi Kenorad,
You might try cleaning the electronic contacts on the rear of your lens. That can help with focus performance.
Usually it's finger or lubricating oils that get onto the contacts, which are gold plated so cannot oxidize or corrode. To safely clean the contact, I recommend using a clean, soft rag lightly moistened with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (cheap "rubbing alcohol" is fine) to wipe the contacts.
One important tip to add. The gold plating on the contacts is thin. Don't use anything abrassive to clean the contacts. Canon also mentions that even a pencil eraser is abbrasive enough to remove the plating -- so don't use an eraser either.
A soft, gentle cleaner is best.
01-07-2014 01:10 PM
I appreciate your help, Alan. I will do all that and hopefully, there will be improved performance.
Thank you very much.
Kenorad
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