05-26-2024 03:05 PM
Hello, I'm new on this forum.
I recently bought a used EF 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II USM from a store online thinking it would be the greatest lens I have ever owned from reading up on it a lot beforehand.
The lens looks like new and I intended to use it on a Canon R6 mk 1 with the original standard Canon adapter. But to my disappointment just around 30-40% (if I'm being nice to the lens) of the shots are in focus on the eye using Servo AF, face + eye-tracking, back button focus and using shutter speeds around 1000-2000th. I have tested this on my 5 year old daughter and my wife who have been walking, running and just doing normal things in the every day life and with this low amount of shots in focus in pretty disappointed.
I have tried all different cases for autofocus and to nap the eye tracking to different buttons. I do have two R6's and the results are the same on both bodies. The firmware is the latest on both bodies too.
I have a few other lenses like EF 100mm f/2, Tamron 24-70 f/2 G1, EF 100-400mm L mk 1, RF 24-240mm that I have done the same tests with. The 100mm f/2 gets more shots in focus by a great margin for example, about 75% in focus. I thought I had bought almost the best EF 70-200 f/2.7 lens out there, but shouldn't it perform better than this? Maybe I should have kept my old Sigma EX 70-200 f/2.8 without stabilization instead...
Sometimes it looks like the focus is on the eyelash, nose or mouth but sometimes the image is just soft. When shooting static objects or people been still it gets focus as I would expect it to. The problem is when tracking moving subjects. Could there be something wrong with the lens so it's unusual slow to track?
For example I had my wife walk mostly towards the camera from a distance looking both straight on and to the sides with her head and of 169 shots I got 52 in focus. When it gets focus it is fantastic, but shouldn't it get more shots in focus?
Is there still something I can try or change to get the results I know this lens can achieve or is it a case of trying to return the lens? I'm shooting my first wedding this summer and wanted to use this lens, but I don't want to feel unsecure if the lens will get the important shots in focus or not doing while under the pressure of the big day for the couple.
Thank you for your thought on this!
05-26-2024 05:01 PM - edited 05-26-2024 05:02 PM
What are the settings on the lens switches? Are you shooting through the EVF or with the rear LCD screen?
[EDIT] Has the image in the screenshot been cropped?
05-26-2024 05:11 PM - edited 05-26-2024 05:12 PM
Autofocus 1.2m to infinity
AF
Stabilizer on
Stabilizer mode 1
I've done both, but mainly using the EVF.
The screenshot photo has not been cropped.
05-26-2024 05:15 PM - edited 05-26-2024 05:18 PM
@Shebulba wrote:Autofocus 1.2m to infinity
AF
Stabilizer on
Stabilizer mode 1
I've done both, but mainly using the EVF.
The screenshot photo has not been cropped.
The EXIF in the screenshot appears to report this was captured in Live View. It you are using a tripod, then that is probably not an issue. It could an issue when you are shooting handheld with longer focal lengths.
The image seems uniformly OOF, which suggests camera shake.
05-26-2024 05:21 PM
Yes that should be correct that I used the LCD on that shot. But I've taken so many photos to try the lens out and out of them I've used the EVF the most and no tripod on any of them.
I have high shutter speeds, IBIS and stabilized lens, ut at least shouldn't be an issue in my mind.
05-26-2024 06:25 PM
Greetings,
Is it possible that any of this has to do with where the lens was purchased from? The OP mentioned "online store". Happens on 2 cameras, etc. Was the lens purchased from a authorized Canon dealer? Just posing this question so we have all of the information.
~Rick
Bay Area - CA
~R5 C (1.0.9.1) ~RF Trinity, ~RF 100 Macro, ~RF 100~400, ~RF 100~500, ~RF 200-800 +RF 1.4x TC, BG-R10, 430EX III-RT ~DxO PhotoLab Elite ~DaVinci Resolve Studio ~ImageClass MF644Cdw/MF656Cdw ~Pixel 8 ~CarePaks Are Worth It
05-26-2024 06:39 PM
I don't know. It was purchased from a small online camera store in my country that has good reviews. I haven't purchased anything there before.
Can anyone else chime in on how their hit rate is with shots in focus on the eye using Eye tracking on the R6 or even the R5?
05-27-2024 09:57 AM - edited 05-27-2024 10:25 AM
Greetings,
I reviewed both shots. One taken on a M6 mkI, the other an R6 mkI.
It looks like the cameras locked on to face or eyes in both shots. I agree the shots are soft
Handheld using Tv 1000 @f2.8, I would expect better/more.
I shot this yesterday using 1 point AF, SS 1/250th @f3.2
My Nephew is sharp, my Neice was slightly out of focus (just barely) as the camera locked on her bouquet. They were walking towards me at the time. I was walking backwards. Step step pause snap, step step pause snap.
Upon re-reading your thread, what Waddizzle mentioned could make sense. The entire shot(s) looks uniformly OOF, and this could be due to shake. Even with a fast shutter.
I suggest you choose one of the cameras (R6) and reset its settings (main and custom), then retest. If notable improvement is not seen, it might be wise to trade the lens, or at the very least take it to the place of purchase for more evaluation.
~Rick
Bay Area - CA
~R5 C (1.0.9.1) ~RF Trinity, ~RF 100 Macro, ~RF 100~400, ~RF 100~500, ~RF 200-800 +RF 1.4x TC, BG-R10, 430EX III-RT ~DxO PhotoLab Elite ~DaVinci Resolve Studio ~ImageClass MF644Cdw/MF656Cdw ~Pixel 8 ~CarePaks Are Worth It
05-27-2024 10:09 AM
The autofocus should easily keep up with someone walking towards you. I get groups of people running directly towards me while using this lens, shooting rapid fire, and most of the images are tack sharp. I've used this lens on the Canon 60D, 80D, RP, and R6 Mk ll. Great results on all of them for sharpness, better detail on each model moving up the line, of course.
I do not think it is that your camera's focus system cannot keep up, but I also agree with Rick about resetting one of the cameras and trying it - just in case something was changed while customizing it for you.
05-27-2024 10:50 AM - edited 05-27-2024 10:53 AM
“ Yes that should be correct that I used the LCD on that shot. But I've taken so many photos to try the lens out and out of them I've used the EVF the most and no tripod on any of them.
I have high shutter speeds, IBIS and stabilized lens, ut at least shouldn't be an issue in my mind. “
Using a fast shutter speed is not a cure-all for camera shake, especially if you are shooting with the rear LCD, instead of a viewfinder. Your samples are consistent with excessive camera shake, most likely as a result of using the rear LCD. They are uniformly out of focus. That is a red flag for camera shake.
The M6 does not have a standard viewfinder, although an add-on accessory is available. While the 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is able to function with an M6, it is not the best of pairings. Excessive camera shake is hard to avoid and probably inevitable shooting handheld. I own an M3, BTW.
The primary job of IS, Image Stabilization, is to stabilize the image for AF system and the viewfinder / rear LCD. This is what the IS spends 99.99% of its time doing. The act of stabilizing the image for a photo only takes a small fraction of a second.
Your sample shots are inconclusive because of the shooting technique. Seeing how the lens works with DSLRs, I strongly suspect the lens is just fine and technique is the likely fault. If your subjects are moving, then your camera/lens combo is moving with them.
I suggest that you take actual test shots from a stable platform like a tripod or even a table. Use the built-in 2-10 second shutter delay function. Let us know how the photos turn out.
BTW, there is a recommend technique for holding a camera. Keep your elbows tucked into your body when you are shooting handheld. Doing so not only provides more stability point to support the camera, but it reduces the chance of someone bumping your elbow and knocking the camera out of your grip.
05-27-2024 11:16 AM
Yes that's what I'm thinking.
I habe actually reset the R6 two times and tried with the stock settings without to me noticable improvements. Maybe it's an idea to try it again.
Do you think it is because of camera shake they are soft even though using such high shutter speeds?
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