High speed continuous shooting

[Maximus]

What are some settings and techniques you use for this?

[TCampbell]

I use this for "panning" shots.  If you're not familiar with "panning" shots, this is where your lens is following a moving subject moving (usually sideways) through your scene.  Rather than fix the frame relative to the background (which would blur a subject if the shutter wasn't fast enough) you "pan" with the camera to fix the frame relative to the subject so that it's the background which blurs and the subject is (hopefully) sharp.

For an example, see:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/thevirtualtim/8981989420/

When I took that shot, I put the camera in AI Servo (focus) and set the focus priority (this is on a 5D III) to "Case 2" (track objects, ignoring obstacles) and used zone focus.

But since I wanted to deliberately blur the background (and wheel spokes) I slowed the shutter on this to 1/40th.  That's normally too slow for an "action" shot, but great for a "panning" shot.   The lens (70-200 f/2.8L IS) had image stabilization on... but IS isn't a guarantee of stability... it merely tilts the odds in your favor.

To tilt the odds a little more in my favor, I use continuous shooting mode.  

In the above shot, the burst took 11 frames.  Of those 11 frames, three of them looked particularly good.  Most others were blurred... not due to missed focus, but do to non-steady tracking while "panning" the cyclist.  

3 useful shots out of 11 frames is close to a 1 in 4 ratio.  Stated differently, had I only took a single frame, there'd be a 75% chance of that one shot being blurry.  By using continuous mode, I'm taking enough shots that the odds are I'll get some usable frames.

[Maximus]

Thank so much for the detailed reply! I will definitely set up and try out what you mentioned. I wondered what other people were achieving as a success rate. Did you put the iii on manual and set it all up yourself? I have been experimenting with TV. The shots that I am after are roller coaster drops and log flume drops. Things like that. We got to Disney and ill ride once and then I start picture taking!

[TCampbell]

I did happen to be in manual exposure mode, but I also use Tv for these things.  If subjects will be moving in and out of shadows, Tv would be better since it'll adapt to chaning light.

The keeper rate is nothing to do with the camera... that's me.  To pull off a panning shot, I have to use a shutter speed below what would normally be considered a "safe" speed for a hand-held shot and then sweep the camera (from right to left in that last example) at the exact same speed that the rider is moving.  Any errors in how fast I'm sweeping/panning the camera and while the camera may have locked focus nicely, the shot will still come out blurry due to my tracking error.

When you start learning to "pan" you can start with a slightly faster shutter and work your way down to slower speeds as you get the hang of it -- you're trying to develope a nice smooth fluid sweeping motion that matches the speed of your subject.

[Maximus]

Cool. Will do. Any specific reason you use a slower shutter? Is it for an effect in the picture?

[TCampbell]

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@Maximus wrote:
Any specific reason you use a slower shutter? Is it for an effect in the picture?

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Yes.  Check the link in my post above to my photo posted at Flickr.  

Notice that in this photo, the rider is tack-sharp, but the background is well-blurred -- specifically a motion blur showing sideways movement.  Also the spokes of the bicycle wheels are well-blurred.

This deliberate blurring implies a sense of motion and speed into the image that wouldn't be there had this been shot at a fast shutter speed.

Had the camera been steady at this slow speed, the background would be sharp but the rider would be blurred.  By "panning" (following the subject with the camera) it's possible to get a "sharp" subject and a blurred background.

Panning takes practice.  You have to develop a fluid movement as you sweep the camera at the same rate your subject is moving.  If you haven't practiced, you may not get any "keepers" (in which case, use a fast shutter speed so you'll at least get some shots.)  As you get used to panning you'll find it's not diffiult -- it's like learning to play a sport or a musical instrument... a bit of practice makes a big difference, but then it eventually starts to get easy.

I don't suggest you take 100% panning shots and no fast-shutter spots (especially when starting out).  You want to at least have a guarantee of coming away with some good sharp shots whether the shots imply motion or not.  If you can get some good keepers that also imply the sense of speed and motion you can think of it as a nice bonus on the day!

[cicopo]

The rules of action photography are different for different venues. Motorsports & aviation like some things in sharp focus but need other things blurred to show that what you shot is moving. In track & field you can freeze everything & it still looks great. This link will explain some of it plus how I set up my cameras when covering the events. Note the major change in background blur as the shutter speed gets lower.

http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=147971

In motorsports freezing the car, background & wheels / tires makes the car / bike etc looked like it's parked rather than at speed.