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lens for 7d mk11

greyhorse
Contributor

I just purchased the 7dmk11 and looking for ideas for what lens to get along with the kid lens.

I shoot mostly family events landscrape skyscrape grandsons sporting events and horse racing.

Doesn't have to be canon lens. Thanks

Donald
10 REPLIES 10

cicopo
Elite

You'll most likely need 2 lenses to cover most of that PLUS the kit lens. You'll need an ultra wide such as the Canon 10-22 or 24 whichever it is or something similar (Never used the Canon but it is very good) plus something in the 70-200 or 70-300 range. What is your budget & is really low light going to be a common part of the sports type events?

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Well to start budget around $2,000.00

 And there will be some low light.

Also forgot to say there will be some wildlife and nature.

Donald

Nikon will introduce the D7 in about twelve years, so unless you are a time traveler, I presume you are referring to the Canon 7D, and specifically the Mark II, a.k.a. Mark Two. Smiley Wink

 

I am not sure what you mean by "kid" lens. You may have meant "kit" lens, but as I am unfamiliar with the kit lens available with some 7D Mark II cameras, will not consider it here. If you like the lens packed with your new camera, you may well wish to disregard much of what I say here. 

 

You have specified a very wide range of shooting, that could easily justify the outlay of many thousands of dollars. The 7D Mark II is a very capable sports/action/bird/wildlife camera, that "deserves" really good lenses. At the ultra-wide end, a need implied by the landscape-skyscraper part, the two Canon-made choices are the EF-S 10-22mm and EF-S 10-18mm. If you have a kit lens starting at 18mm, the latter might well be the better choice. My personal choice is the EF-S 10-22mm, as I find its full zoom range useful, and when I bought it, the 10-18mm did not yet exist, anyway.

 

Because my widest lens can zoom to 22mm, it made sense for my next zoom lens to be the quite versatile EF 24-105mm f/4L. 24mm is not very wide, on a camera with an APS-C sensor, but a zoom lens that starts in the "normal" focal length range, and zooms to about 80mm or 100mm, and can focus at a very close distance, is very useful for my on-duty crime scene images, and I had noticed that many nature photographers use it, and one noted food photographer likes it, so I acquired a pre-owned EF 24-105mm L last year, and it has not disappointed.

 

I could shoot just about everything I "needed" to shoot, with my EF-S 10-22mm and EF 24-105mm lenses, which fit within your $2000 limit. (In actual practice, macro is very important to me, and I do use a macro lens often, but you did not mention a need for macro.)  I cannot address horse-racing, which is probably best shot with lenses that far exceed your stated budget. Sports, in low light, is not a modest-budget proposition! Low-light sports lenses start with the 70-200mm f/2.8 options, with the better of Canon's two choices costing more than $2000 US.

 

To be clear, I am sharing information on the lenses I use, not attempting to provide conclusive advice. This is a way, not the way.

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

You did not mention what lens you got with it.

From what you said, the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens along with the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM Lens would be a killer outfit.  It "alomst" meets your two grand limit.

 

If you got a lens that is close to the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM, just add the EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM Lens.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Sorry about the type error. Yes I was asking about the 7d mk11. The kit lens was the 18-135m.m. Also is it better to have a battery grip or not have one?

Thanks

Donald

I'm sure there are differing opinions on the battery grip but in my view it's most important function (which isn't one I use) is the fact it includes a shutter button that's a lot more comfortable to use in Portrait Mode. My 1 series bodies have that too but I rarely shoot in Portrait Mode. Some may suggest one for more battery power while others may suggest the extra weight makes it easier to hold the camera / lens steady.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

"Also is it better to have a battery grip or not have one?"

 

I greatly like the addition of a battery grip. I consider it a necessary option.  One feature not already mentioned is how it makes the camera feel in your hand.

Plus if you get some bigger lenses as in a big tele the balance will be better.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@greyhorse wrote:

Sorry about the type error. Yes I was asking about the 7d mk11. The kit lens was the 18-135m.m. Also is it better to have a battery grip or not have one?

Thanks


LENSES:

 

Seeing that you have the 18-135mm, some good zooms to complement it would be EF-S 10-18mm IS STM and EF 100-400L IS USM Mark II. Alternatives are the EF-S 10-22mm USM, EF 70-300 (several models), EF 70-200mm (several models to choose among: f4 & f2.8, IS and non-IS), or EF-S 55-250 IS (two versions, the STM has better auto focus performance).  

 

The above has particularly large aperture for low light shooting, A few of the zooms are f2.8, but if you want larger than that you may want one or two fast primes, too: EF 28/1.8 USM, EF 35/2 IS USM, EF 35/1.4L USM, EF 50/1.4 USM, EF 50/1.2L USM,  EF 85/1.8 USM, EF 85/1.2L USM II all would be good, useful possibilities. Third party, Sigma 30/1.4 DC, 35/1.4 DG "Art", 50/1.4 DG "Art", 85/1.4 "Art".

 

The  EF-S 10-18mm is a neat ultrawide that's a real bargain for $300.  (That's about half the price of the even nicer EF-S 10-22mm).

 

The 100-400mm Mark II is a new model that's getting great reviews and is a nice step up from the older version it's replacing, but at $2200 is a bit more than your budget. The original 100-400mm is still a pretty good lens that can still be found for about $1700.

 

Third party ultrawide zooms abound: Sigma 8-16mm, 10-20mm (two versions), Tamron 10-24mm, Tokina 11-20/2.8, 12-28/4 (and the Tokina 11-16/2.8, 12-24/4 they recently superseded) are all possibilities.

 

There are a number of third party telezooms, too: Sigma has two versions of their new 150-600mm, and the 120-400mm and 150-500mm lenses being replaced are still widely available. Tamron also offers a 150-600mm. If the above are larger and heavier than you want to carry around, both Sigma and Tamron also offer 70-200s.

 

BATTERY GRIP

 

I use a battery grip on all my DSLRs. I appreciate having twice the batteries for longer shooting sessions, but my main reasons are the vertical grip and controls for portrait orientation shots. And it's true, the little bit of extra mass of the grip and its batteries helps balance when using big glass on the camera.

 

Even tho I rarely do so, I prefer a camera with a removeable grip (like 7D) that can be removed to make the camera a little lighter and/or more compact.

 

There are Canon OEM battery grips, as well as cheaper third party grips. Personally I stick with Canon's own because I've heard and read about some issues with the third party on various camera models over the years.

 

It really comes down to personal preference, whether or not to use a battery grip. I like using one, but as you can see from other responses, not everyone feels the same as me. So, best I can suggest is give it a try and see for yourself.

 

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

 





 

 

RexGig
Enthusiast
I derive little benefit from a battery grip, because my thin hand and fingers all fit comfortably onto the body, as-is, and my left eye is dominant, so when I shoot in "portrait" orientation, I rotate the camera opposite from most shooters, placing the grip's shutter release in a useless position. This leaves battery options as the sole benefit of a battery grip, for me. Of course, the needs of others will vary. Do what benefits you.

I do have a battery grip for the original 5D, which I have probably tested, for proper function, but never used after that. I have battery grips for the Nikon F6 and D700, which are useful, enabling me to use the huge, efficient EN-EL4a battery, made for the D2/D3-series cameras. Notably, the D700's MB-D10 grip, unlike most battery grips, is a well-made, with a wonderful build quality, and, at least for me, enhances the camera's overall handling, unlike most battery grips I have handled. Handling qualities are a personal thing, as indicated previously.
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