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Please Help - why are pics not in focus and sharp?

Maria
Enthusiast

I have a 24-70mm f/2.8L lens and am finding that it is not as sharp as i'd expect.  I'm sure it's me and not the lens so hoping someone can help me understand what i'm doing or not doing correctly.

 

I'm attaching a picture as an example...hand held...here are the settings:

EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM

59.0mm

1/640 sec;   f/2.8;   ISO 400

Shutter priority;   Spot metering

shot with 70D

 

when you zoom into the tree it is cleary not in focus/sharp ;(

 

I've tried at differen shutter speeds but still having the same issue... going to try different apertures next...

 

 

 

treetest.jpg

 

____________________
Body: Canon 6D, Canon T1i, Canon Elan II,
Glass: Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM, Canon 70-200 f/4 IS II, Canon 16-35 f/4, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro.
Flash: Canon Speedlite 430ex ii
52 REPLIES 52

Just checked - it will 😉

____________________
Body: Canon 6D, Canon T1i, Canon Elan II,
Glass: Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM, Canon 70-200 f/4 IS II, Canon 16-35 f/4, Canon 100 f/2.8 macro.
Flash: Canon Speedlite 430ex ii

In Sigma the DC designation means APS-C and DG means FF.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Harv
Contributor

Maria, that particular lens (which I have owned and used for years) is simply NOT sharp when used wide open at f/2.8 but improves when the aperture is stopped down to at least f/4.  It becomes quite sharp at f/5.6 - f/8.  I avoid using mine wide open.  Normally this is not a problem as most of my shooting required apertures between f/5.6 and f/11.

"... is simply NOT sharp when used wide open at f/2.8 ..."  

 

WOW, I can't believe you or anyone said that!  Smiley Surprised

As a common fact no lens is a sharp wide open as it is stopped down several stops but this lens is outstandingly sharp.

The only complaint I could possibly give it is, wide open at very close distances but who shoots one that way anyways?

This lens is as good as it gets. There simply is no better lens (in a 24-70mm f2.8) even with Brand N.

IMHO, of course, ... as aways.

 

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

I guess the next thing you'll try to convince me of is that your version 1 of the 70-200 is sharp wide open and is as sharp as the version 2.

 

For the record, most lenses only need to be stopped down 1 or 2 f-stops to get to the sweet spot, not several.

 

Also, for you to say there is no better 24-70/2.8 class lens out there than the Canon version 1 is simply wrong.  You should check your facts before making such a claim.

 

Have a nice day.  I'm done with this conversation.

"I'm done with this conversation."

 

GOOD!

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Harv
Contributor

P.S.  I use the lens on 2 bodies..... a 1D Mark IV and a 5D Mark III.  Results are the same with both bodies.

 

carrie122
Apprentice

I had this same problem with my EOS 60D. soft focus. I had to finally send it in to canon to be tweaked and fixed, after trying EVERY other thing and asking every single person who would giveme an answer. Sometimes after time and use cams just need to be adjusted

billverzalphoto
Apprentice
I would suggest you stop down the aperture a bit. Try around f/5.6 or so. I find that my f/.2.8 is not as sharp at f/2.8 as it is as f/4.5 and lower.

ScottyP
Authority
I got my 6d for low light. I don't shoot serious super fast sports, though it does do a fine job with my girl's soccer. I would not shoot my crop sensor camera above ISO 400, and I really didn't like to go above 200. With the 6d 800 looks good, and I can make 1600 or 2500 or 3200 or even 6400 look pretty good. If printing small (5x7) 12800 can work.
Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?
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