EOS Rebel T7: Best lens for sports photography

[IzzyHoerschgen]

Hi I have a eos rebel 17 and want to start photographing my schools sports teams, I am not looking to break the bank and the most I am willing to spend is $800 and I want to know what lens would be best for me to use. I am mostly struggling to get my shutter fast enough for the people in my photos to not be blurry. Any suggestions how to fix that and which lens to get

[March411]

Hey Izzy, welcome to the forum.

Best lens, that is always a tough question. Are you photographing both indoor and outdoor sports and in low light? Give us an idea of the sports you are photographing, some sports require a bit more lens focal length then others.

As for the blurry photos, increased shutter speeds will help with sharpness as well as making sure you are not creating camera movement when shuttering the camera. That being said you may want to review the information on the exposure triangle to see how adjustments in shutter speed impact exposure when ISO and aperture are not adjusted accordingly. When hand holding the camera always try to use a shutter speed of at least the focal length of the camera. This is a general rule that helps eliminate camera shake.

It's a bit dated but David Molnar has a decent and quick read on shutter speed that may help.

Ultimate Guide to Shutter Speed 

[wq9nsc]

In your price range, the best bet is a good condition used Canon EF 70-200 f2.8 lens.  Anything new that does what you need will be well over $800 and anything new in the $800 range isn't going to have the reach or aperture you need for HS sports.

I have a lot of Canon lenses but every sports event I shoot will have an EF 70-200 f2.8 on one of the camera bodies.  It is a great lens in all of its flavors from early non-IS through the IS III version.  I still have the EF 70-200 f2.8 I bought back in 2005 as a backup lens to my current EF 70-200 f2.8 IS III version.  This lens accounts for around 70% of the photos I capture at most sports events and this family of lenses is simply excellent!

Daylight or nighttime sports, the 70-200 f2.8 is in its element.  All images below captured with EF 70-200 f2.8 on 1DX III bodies.

Rodger

[justadude]

I agree with Wq9nsc on the EF 70-200mm F/2.8 L.  I've been using mine for hired sports photography for more years than I care to admit.  I still use an old version of this lens on my new mirrorless cameras, and have excellent results.

Just a tip for buying used... avoid places like Facebook Marketplace, Amazon, or other online merchants that are not reputable (Amazon has some good third party sellers, and some shady ones - best to avoid them).  Where is the best place to buy?  Preferably a local camera store.  Most take in trades on equipment that is still in good working condition, and then resell at a fair price.  Also, these used gear prices are not set in stone at camera stores (unlike for new gear).  It's common to talk them down a bit, but not a lot.  I usually ask for about 10%-15% less than what they are selling for, and usually they will do it, sometimes they counter offer.

Another great place for used gear online that you can trust is B&H Photo, KEH, and Adorama.  I've heard MPB is good as well, but personally I have never bought from them.  

[ebiggs1]

"...  I ... want to start photographing my schools sports teams,..."

You did not mention which sport. I assume basketball and football but perhaps baseball? If these are indeed the "sports' you wan to shoot I am afraid no one lens no matter how much you want to spend will do a real good job.

Another question a mabe no actually the most important part of the equation is where will you be shooting from?

For football and baseball I still suggest one of the super zooms )150-600mm) my current prefered one is the Tamron G2 model but $800 may be a stretch even for a used one. However a used Sigam C is doable around $800 bucks even less. Neither of these will do for basketball where the EF 70-200mm f2.8L is king.

As to SS you are at a little disadvantage with a Rebel T7. All photography gear has and will reach its limit to what it can do. In your case the T7 will get there quickly as you push ISO to achieve the faster SS to stop action. ISO never under 1600 in most cases and higher may be required but no one here can supply you with that setting without seeing your venue and lighting situation and neither will any Youtube video. That you will have to find out for yourself.