Blues and Greens on Pixma Pro-100

[DallasXanadu]

I've had a Pixma Pro-100 for a while, but I've never been able to get blues and greens to look anything like what I'm seeing on my monitor (which I have calibrated). I've decided today is the day to either figure it out or go a different route printer-wise. Ironically, I've used 3 previous Pixma photo printers, none of which were more than $120, with beautiful results (and which I would still be using if Canon still produced the ink for them). Nothing has changed in the hardware chain other than unplugging my previous Canon and plugging this Pro-100, and seeing the very disappointing results, so I'm to the point of thinking there's something inherenetly more difficult with printing using an expensive printer, I've purchased a lemon, or the Pro-100 is just not very good to begin with.

I've googled and seen the "blue issue" mentioned in various forums, I've tried everything I've found on them (ie nozzle check) with no luck. I've tried manual color management and several other tweaks as well. I'm using Digital Photo Professional 4 software from Canon, and I've also tried printing through GIMP, with identical results. I'm using Canon Photo Paper Pro Platinum, I've also tried Photo Paper Pro Luster. So I'm basically throwing up this Hail Mary in the hopes that I don't end up putting this behemoth of a printer in the recycling bin (or doing something much more violent).

I've inserted an image to illustrate just what a disaster I've got on my hands. Does anybody know an ancient Chinese secret I haven't discovered?

[jrhoffman75 · Accepted solution]

You would use the Tools-Preferences selection, but PSP directly overrides all that.

Have you tried printing the test file? Does it look OK?

[DallasXanadu]

So I plugged my Pixma into my Surface Pro using my USB hub, used Windows calibration on it, and my test prints look amazing. I've definitely narrowed my issue down to the HP monitor. I don't print just a ton with the Pro-100, so I'll probably just use the Surface every time I do. Definitely more cost-effective than an expensive calibration tool, which might not even work.

Thanks to all who chimed in here with suggestion!

David