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tutorial for Powershot SX50HS

LindaBirder
Enthusiast

I need a tutorial or a step by step instruction that I can follow.  I have downloaded the complete manual and thoroughly read and studied it.  My last Canon was the AE1program purchased in 1984 and used for 20 years, always on the automatic setting.  Since 2004, I have used a Kodak automatic camera.  I am overwhelmed by the settings on this wonderful new camera I just received as a gift 5 weeks ago.  I found one tutorial for setting C1 & C2 to be used respectively for birds in the distance and macro shots.  This is exactly what I need but not exactly the settings as described in the tutorial.  Also, the videographer does not explain how to set the settings but assumes the viewer already knows that.

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ssobel
Contributor

LindaBirder if you are still interested here is a link to a new post on you tube.  It is from a photographer named Marius and each week he is adding another episode.  He uses the SX50 as his teaching camera.  I just found it last week and so far it has answered numerous questions.  He will be posting a new "episode" each week.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzokasX1ILA

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I was also looking for tutorials.  I found one that has been a big help, it is for the SX40, but is very similar.  I have learned a lot watching her u tube videos, Fatdragon100's Canon Powershot SX40.  Hope that is of some help.  I am going to check the other ones that have been suggested.  Learning all the ins and outs takes a little work.  

 

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108 REPLIES 108

Vetteran,

 

Thank you very much!  I was wondering why I could never achieve any depth of field.  It helps very much to know what the camera limitations are.

 

LindaBirder

I use it in Program mode which allows me to move the focus bracket to an area on the subject with enough detail for the autofocus to lock in on...if not I switch to manual focus. Very steady or braced hands are needed in my experience or a tripod. Also since I am so close to the subject the light entering the lens can be limited so I carry a small adjustable led light source in case I need it, behind the leaves for instance.It really brings out the colors. I'm guessing all cameras in all prices ranges have a limitation or two.

John, you have hit on something that I have trouble with.  In P, I have it set to Flexizone.  The function dial does not move the focus box.  It will only go to the various functions such as self timer.  How is the focus box moved?  Thank you!

Hi Linda, there are a few ways to do that and rather than me rambling on in my own words I think this is what your asking:

 

Capture.JPG

John,

 

This is wonderful!  I appreciate your ability to work with my at my level.  I had printed out most of the manual last May when I got the camera.  I studied it for quite some time but the print is so tiny, I have a lot of trouble making out the icons.  I had never figured out that the button next to the trash can  (Vetteran called it a "bin" which I did not know how to interpret) did anything more than delete pictures.  So now, I fully understand both of the instructions that you sent me.  I am thinking that the first one in which I set the focus box would be good for close focus.  The tracking one may be good for birds or moving children.  Do you have input on that?  I will practice with both methods.

 

LindaBirder

 

 

Have the shutter set for contiuous shooting. Particularly effective for snapping people who tend to move or pull odd faces at inopportune moments.  

Also Linda, and I know all the differents means and methods can become overwheling for me also, when you get a chance try the Tracking AF I think Veteran mentioned that mode for focus and I've been using that now...the focus bracket moves by itself...heres the exerpt for that mode: the first part you probably know:

Capture 3.JPG

 

Capture 2.JPG

I take back what I said about not needing an adaptor for close work. The camera does focus to 0 but at such close proximity to a subject, lightingis a big problem. Bought a bargain 80 - 200 lens off eBay and made a macro fitting and then used one of the internal lenses to make a loupe for the screen. Broadly in line with these on Youtube  NNp-tne9KaE and p_KgMbOU8Wo. 

Vetteran,

 

I have definitely seen the problem with lighting on close shots.  It looks like it is going to be perfect until I press the button to focus.  Then it suddenly goes really light - washed out.  Is this what you are talking about with the lighting?

 

I have a set of 3 magnification filters for close ups that I used with my Cannon AE1Program film camera. (in the olden days) They are threaded.  They are not currently with me but I am going to take a look at them in a couple of weeks to see if there is any chance they could be used.

Hi Linda and your very welcome. Im still very much learning this powerful camera also.

The first method in Flexizone where you manually move the focus bracket to a good area to focus on is good for any subject that is not moving and/or the center of the subject is flat i.e.not enough detail to focus on so you have to move the bracket elsewhere.

The second method also works well for stationary subjects and very good for moving subjects as long as they are not moving to fast and even that depends on the contrast/color difference between the subject and the background. I used it to capture my daughter when she was jogging and it worked perfectly and the bracket stayed right on her even though she was not in the center of the picture. She was porbably about 40 feet away from me on a bright sunny day. I think the manual also mentions if the subject is to small it may not work too. From my experience if it locks on initially then it will track.

Dont forget we can change the size of the focus bracket also by pressing the Display button which can help too.

There is lots of good information in the manual on this and it seems like I pick up a bit each time I read through it.

John

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