06-24-2013 08:47 PM
I need a tutorial or a step by step instruction that I can follow. I have downloaded the complete manual and thoroughly read and studied it. My last Canon was the AE1program purchased in 1984 and used for 20 years, always on the automatic setting. Since 2004, I have used a Kodak automatic camera. I am overwhelmed by the settings on this wonderful new camera I just received as a gift 5 weeks ago. I found one tutorial for setting C1 & C2 to be used respectively for birds in the distance and macro shots. This is exactly what I need but not exactly the settings as described in the tutorial. Also, the videographer does not explain how to set the settings but assumes the viewer already knows that.
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06-27-2013 12:53 PM
06-27-2013 03:53 PM - edited 06-27-2013 03:56 PM
I do appreciate getting your response. However, I am more a nature hobbyist than a photographer. I do not speak the language of photography & at 65, I do not intend to learn. I intend to use everthing on this camera as automatically as possible. That does not mean I am just going to set it on Auto and shoot. I need to control the focus. I want to shoot multiple frames and I want to learn to use the focus tracking. I mostly shoot birds and butterflies wherever I find them. I don't find that I would have time to mess with camera settings in these situations although I realize that the best photographers do that. I just use the pictures for myself and a few friends and I never print them. I am keeping this camera so I do not need reviews. I think this guy is telling me what I need to know
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zh3567vQQVY but he is going too fast and skipping over the steps on how to actually choose these settings. Also, I do not want to use the Tv mode as he is doing because I do not want to set the ISO. I will try the sports mode on birds next as you demonstrated.
Thanks again for your response. Your pictures are wonderful.
06-27-2013 09:25 PM
If you want better results invest about 1 hour learning the important controls. Understanding ISO & Tv is relatively easy & will advance your skills & results Learn those, what AI Servo is & how to use Exposure Compensation
06-28-2013 04:47 PM
Thank you. I have all of that. I need guidance on which menu settings are best for what please on this specific camera. Particularly moving birds & butterflies (as in far & close in) in bright light and and shadows. And I want to be able to grab the camera and shoot quickly before the subjects get away.
06-28-2013 05:10 PM
The problem is that there isn't a setting that does all that. It's done using combinations of settings best for the situation & available light. The other option is Sport mode but it's still a compromise but at least it starts by using the light meter to choose the rest of the settings.
06-28-2013 05:22 PM - edited 06-28-2013 05:31 PM
The reason you can't just set it for every situation is as simple to understand as this. The light meter can't know what amount of light is on the bird vs the general scene. IF the bird (say a Great Blue Heron) flies by and you're lucky enough to have the sun at your back you stand a good chance of a decent photo BUT if you're shooting towards the sun you'll just get a silhouette of the bird that's severly underexposed. You need to learn how to expose for the bird & not the sky or background.
ALSO check your manual carefully about whether or not you can leave the IS on for panning. IS in most cameras is JUST for taking photos of stationary subjects. In many cases leaving it on when panning adds some blur instead of cancelling it.
06-28-2013 07:07 PM
I understand what you are saying about the ISO. I practiced since your last post using the Tv Mode. I adjusted the ISO and shot into sun and shadows. I have C1 settings saved as Tv, continuous shooting, & JPEG for faster shooting as was demonstrated in the YouTube video I linked in my first request for help. I think I will be OK with that for birds. (?)
Can you suggest what mode would be best for butterflies? Distance would usually be 2-6 feet or could be closer sometimes.
I am sorry to say I do not understand your second paragraph. I don't know what IS is.
Thank you so much for your help!
06-28-2013 10:15 PM
IS is the Canon abbreviation for IMAGE STABILIZED which employs floating lens elements which help cancel out camera shake. If IS is on you can take a photo at a lower shutter speed than usually recommended for the lighting & still get a sharp image. Canon uses IS in many of their P&S bodies but not in their DSLR's. It's built into some of their lenses but not all of them & depending on the lens it may have a panning mode (mode 2).
As for shooting butterflies up close I think P, Tv or Av all could work reasonable well in decent light so I'd experiment a bit with each. Using P as a starting point take a few photos & see what settings; especially the shutter speed, and see how they look. If the camera chose a fast shutter speed & a really small aperture (P&S don't go as small as a DSLR lens) you can try Tv and a slightly faster shutter speed which should increase your chances of a very sharp image. IF you start using these modes learn Exposure Compensation because it allows you to quickly adjust for a better exposure than the one you just took & viewed on the LCD. For my style of photography EC is the most valuable tool the camera offers other than being able to see the shot I just took on the LCD. We didn't have that available when I shot film.
06-29-2013 09:15 PM
Yes. Image Stabilazation was one of the key features that attracted me to this camera. I just have trouble remembering all the abreviations. I don't think I do much panning but what you are saying might explain why my picture of the International Space Station shows a long tail behind it.
You have given me quite a bit to work on. I did not realize what a big learning curve leap I was taking when I chose this camera. Thank you so very much.
If it is OK with you, I will leave this thread open for a while just in case anyone else has good information that I can use.