06-23-2013 12:46 AM
06-23-2013 09:24 AM
I'm not sure why you think you might need to use manual focus vs the AF system but I've posted some stuff that might help you here.
And if you think you'd like to learn a bit more about shooting action which in general needs good panning skills & an understanding of the venue (freeze the entire scene OR just parts of it) you can read this.
The suggested shutter speeds are for model aircraft but the idea is the same for real prop planes & wheel sports where you blur the wheels / tires & background but freeze the car. You use as slow a shutter speed as you can working your way down as your panning skills improve.
06-25-2013 02:07 AM
06-25-2013 06:47 PM
Those are the toughest venues to shoot & even those of us with DSLR's have trouble. The keys to low light action are to use fast lenses (big apertures) & a body with clean high ISO settings. The trouble is those fast lenses are expensive in the longer lengths but you need telephotos to get the action from the sidelines.
06-26-2013 12:11 PM - edited 06-26-2013 12:13 PM
Yeah, to take really great photos of games at night under the lights or indoors in gyms... unfortunately it takes thousands of dollars in gear. You can still take decent shots with what you have, especially if you're allowed to use flash... but in general those low-light + fast action venues are the realm of full-frame sensor DSLR's and fast aperture (usually high dollar) lenses. It's all about getting the most light into the camera, and having the best high-ISO sensors to maximize what gets in. That usually means the bigger the sensor in your camera, the better. I have a 5D Mark III and several f/2.8 or better lenses and it's still a challenge.
One thing to try, I've done this with my (G11 with some success) is to shoot either in Av or Manual, and set your camera such that your shots are a little (1 to 1.5-stops or so) underexposed on purpose to keep a decent ISO (around 800 on my G11) and fairly fast shutter combination. In post processing (I use Lightroom mostly, but any decent editing software will probably work), I'll boost the exposure and try to minimize the noise as much as possible. Even then, you won't be able to make any huge enlargements out of it, but you can probably get some decent screen images and/or small prints.