12-29-2013 03:24 PM
On the close up pics, the 70D shot is not in focus. It may or may not need microfocus adjusting. There are lots of resources online as to various methods for doing that.
It's nice that Canon brought that feature back into the XXD line with the 70D.
12-29-2013 03:26 PM
12-29-2013 03:38 PM
yes it does have micro adjustments but need to be sure of what the issue is before doing anything...
i read that test info - not sure i completely understand but will try tomorrow in good natural light...
my fear is that there is a problem with the lens - i purchased it in late September - so no way i can return or exchange now ;( with the T1i i could see that it was a little off but assumed it was me and the need for me to learn more vs the lens... but now with the 70d it is very obvious that it is way off ;(
i'm starting to feel very sick at the thought that it is the lens... if it is i think it has a 1 yr warranty so hoping that means i can have it looked at???
12-29-2013 04:11 PM
12-30-2013 09:58 AM
Maria the picture of the label is unacceptable for a 24-70mm f2.8 L lens.
But cameras and lenses only do what you tell them to.
It is imperative that neither moved during exposure. That makes the tree useless for now.
Also the DOF at f2.8 is very thin.
It is imperative to find out which of the three variables, the lens, the body or you are at fault. Until you know which, you, and/or us are blowing in the wind.
Don't go messing with any controls or adjustments on the camera. Plus make absolutely sure the camera is set to factory defaults.
Do you have, or can you go back to the store and try another lens on this body?
Do you own a tripod?
12-30-2013 12:42 PM
I'm using the center AF.... i tend to use it 90% of the time... the text pic i just posted looks better but still thought it should be better than it is.... i found this: Jeffrey’s Autofocus Test Chart (http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart) so going to try it next - but not sure i fully understand what to do...
You'll download and print the chart on your printer. You'll place the chart so that it's leaning away from the camera at approximately a 45 degree angle (it doesn't need to be perfect... just make sure it's leaning back on a slope).
You'll put your camera on a tripod so that that there's no way it can move after focusing.
You'll select the center focus point on the camera and frame up the shot so that the center point on the camera is pointed to the middle of the focus chart ... it is crticially important that you make sure the center AF point is exactly on the bold spot in the middle of his chart and not off to a side or above or below. The center has extra strong contrast to make it easier to find.
Now you can focus the camera and take a shot.
After you've taken the shot... inspect it.
If the lens is "front focusing" (true focus distance is actually closer then your intended focus distance) then you'll notice the text toward the bottom of the chart will appear to be focused better. If the lens is "back focusing" then the top of the chart will have better focus. If the lens and camera are performing correctly... then the middle of the chart (the point you actually used to focus) will have the best focus. This is why the chart needs to lean back on an angle... so that part of the chart is closer and part of the chart is farther away.
If the lens is consistently off in the same direction, you can apply a focus adjustment for that lens in your camera. If it's randomly off then the lens will need service (and it's even better if you send in BOTH the lens AND the camera so that Canon can calibrate the lens specifically for YOUR camera.)
12-30-2013 01:37 PM
12-30-2013 06:46 PM - edited 12-30-2013 07:05 PM
i printed out that chart and took some shoots .... part i'm not clear on is how far away from the camera is chart supposed to be?
edited: just re-read the instructions - it says 10 feet! will try again....
01-01-2014 09:47 AM
Maria, that particular lens (which I have owned and used for years) is simply NOT sharp when used wide open at f/2.8 but improves when the aperture is stopped down to at least f/4. It becomes quite sharp at f/5.6 - f/8. I avoid using mine wide open. Normally this is not a problem as most of my shooting required apertures between f/5.6 and f/11.