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Lens Recommendation

TxHunter
Apprentice

Looking for a lens that will allow fast shooting of sports photography, have the range for scenery at a distance, but yet have wide angle capabilities for reasonable close up pics.  I have a 70-200 F4/L IS, 55-250 F/4.0-5.6 L and the standard 18-55mm that comes with some ofthe older EOS models.

 

I find the 55-250 is not wide enough on the low end and soft on the longer zoom.    I would like a lens that can still shoot the sports photography and yet be capable of shooting close ups at wide angle. 

 

Any recommendations?

14 REPLIES 14

TxHunter
Apprentice

Part of the problem with interchangeable lens for me anyway, is that I have ruined two sensors on DSLRs due to dust getting inside the body when the lens is being changed outside.  I don't change lens any longer on windy days - I guess what I will need when I leave the vehicle.   I have learned how to compensate/anticipate my pictures as I usually take in sports mode so I can get the before during and after play - I also shoot in areas of the field where the play is going to occur and I see what I can get on the pics.  95% of the time I use a monopod and during the daylight I have fast focus options and clear pics.  At night and under artificial lights, I get the first pic clear in a sequence and the rest are a crap shoot if they will be crisp as I move with the action.

 

I do shoot across long fields so the extra length is helpful.

 

 


@TxHunter wrote:

Part of the problem with interchangeable lens for me anyway, is that I have ruined two sensors on DSLRs due to dust getting inside the body when the lens is being changed outside. 


Either you're doing something wrong, or you had really, really bad luck. I've changed my lenses while walking some of the dirtiest streets and markets in this world; never had a problem.


@TxHunter wrote:

Part of the problem with interchangeable lens for me anyway, is that I have ruined two sensors on DSLRs due to dust getting inside the body when the lens is being changed outside.  


I'm guessing that perhaps what was actually damaged may have been the shutter mechanism.  The sensor is actually hiding behind two filters (glass) which is hiding behind the curtain shutter mechanism.  Dust cannot actually reach the sensor through the front of the camera.  But if sand were to get inside and jam up the shutter mechanism... that could be a problem (but this is something that can be serviced and wouldn't be cause to pitch the camera in the bin -- not unless the camera was so old already that the cost of repair exceeded the value of the camera.)

 

My camera dangles from a sling-type strap (I use a Black Rapid strap) and this attaches to a swivel which is connected to the tripod bolt attachment point on the bottom of the camera.  When I change lenses I (a) point the camera body downward (things are less likely to fly up into the camera) and once the lens is removed, I flip the camera (remember mine swivels) so that the opening is facing my body -- and hanging at my side.  This means my body acts like a "cap" while I put the last lens away and pull the next lens out.  This works well enough that not only have I never had damage... I generally don't even get bits of dust inside that would need a typical cleaning.

 

 

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da

Yes it was an older EOS20D - I was able to get it fixed/cleaned the first time, but the second time it was half the cost of buying a new body so I opted to get the newer body as I was able to get the 60D for $450 from a friend who just wanted the lens in the kit so it seemed like the best option.

 

When this started it was a very windy, dusty day and I started seeing the specs in the pics (especially against a blue backgorund) and then everythign started to stick.

I've made around a half million images with my Canon DSLRs and never had such bad luck... I change lenses all the time - with reasonably care - and seldom have any issues more serious than needing to do an occasional cleaning.

 

 Dust has always been a factor with photography forever, so it's just a matter of leaning to deal with it (or paying to have your camera cleaned occasionally, which shouldn't cost more than $25 to 50... it's a 15 minute job). The older DSLRs didn't have the self-cleaning sensor feature of modern models, and needed attention a lot more often. With my 30D, I cleaned them every 3 to 6 months. Now after shooting for 4.5 years with a pair of 7D, I've never had to clean one of them and the other has only been cleaned once. It's not hard and you can learn to do it yourself.

 

Youi need three lenses to do what you want to do...

 

You already have an excellent sports/action lens with your 70-200/4L IS USM. If that doesn't have enought reach, I'd recommend adding the EF 300/4L IS USM, 100-400L IS USM. If you need to shoot indoors or in low light, 70-200/2.8L IS USM and EF 300/2.8L IS USM are good bets, but those are a lot bigger, heavier and far more expensive. There are others, but basically for sports/action shooting you need to look for USM lenses (or equivalent third party such as Sigma HSM or Tamron USD).

 

For wider scenic shots you need a wider lens or lenses. If you mostly are shooting in the daytime, I'd suggest the EF-S 15-85mm IS USM as a top quality walk-around lens that goes wider than most. Otherwise, you might want a standard zoom such as an EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS USM, paired up with an ultrawide such as the EF-S 10-22mm.

 

For close-up shooting, you might be able to simply add accessories to a lens you already have.... or for higher magnification and top image quality, get a true macro lens. Note: even though they are USM, macro lenses are slower focusing. In part this is because they have to move their focus group a long, long way to go all the way from infinity to 1:1 magnification. But also they are designed with a "long throw" focus that emphasizes accuracy over speed, since very precise focusing is often needed due to the very shallow depth of field that's often part of shooting high magnification shots.

 

For close-ups to perhaps 1:2 (half life size) or maybe even a little more, you could simply add macro extension tubes to one of you other lenses. For example, they work well on a 70-200mm (set it to 70 to 100mm, so you don't have to use a whole lot of extension tubes). You also might use extension on a 15-85mm or other lens in the 50mm to 100mm range of focal lengths.

 

Or, you can choose among a number of excellent true macro lenses... Canon's EF-S 60/2.8 USM is nice and compact. Their EF 100/2.8 USM macro gives a bit more working distance and can be fitted with a tripod mounting ring, which can be very handy when shooting macro. And there also is the EF 100/2.8L IS USM, which adds image stabilization that might help a bit with handheld shooting (also can be fitted with a tripod mounting ring).

 

There really are many good macro lenses... I'm currently trying out a Tamron SP 60/2.0... it's nice and compact, and has a full stop larger aperture than most macro lenses, so is more useful for low light and portraiture too. I also use Canon 100/2.8 USM, 180/3.5L and MP-E 65mm macro lenses, as well as a Tamron 90mm and, often, a Canon TS-E 45mm for close-ups. In addition, I use Canon 12mm (2x) and 25mm (1x) extension tubes, as well as a Kenko set (12mm, 20mm, 36mm).

 

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

 






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