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Canon 60 Lens Recommendation

bertotr
Contributor

Hi everyone,

 

I have a 60D which I have been using for the past 9 years. I am using it mostly for family events, travel and now my kids sports. My question is which lens is recommended for outdoor youth soccer day games. I am near the sideline. I have used the canon 55-250 STM and had some issues with lens. The major issue was the pictures were not in focus or sharp. I manually set the camera in TV mode with shutter speed 1/1000, auti ISO and aperture was dictated by the lens as it was variable. I also had it on AI Servo mode and center point focus. It may have been my error as to the reason the pictures were not in focus or sharp. What lens do you all recommend for my needs? I have no problem giving the 55-250 STM another change but would like other recommendations. I am not planning to upgrade camera anytime soon. If I do upgrade not sure if it will be another APSC or full frame. 

 

Thank you for your time and help.

 

Robert

19 REPLIES 19

" I will change to all focus points."

 

I would suggest using just the center point especially at first.  Walk before you run. Keep as much as simple as possible until you are very familiar with it.  The other points may and will select things you may not know and they may not be what you wanted.

 

The reason to use Av is simple. The most important thing in photography is exposure. You have to get it right. With Av mode you select an aperture which you decide is best for the situation.  The camera will now select the fastest SS possible to get the exposure correct.  If on the other hand you use Tv, you may not have enough aperture to get the exposure right. Again Av is going to get you a shot but keep in mind if conditions are too dim the action might be too fast. At least you got a shot but this would indicate you need a faster lens. Hence the 70-200mm f2.8.

 

ALso keep in mind all camera/lens combos have their limits.  There might be a time where there isn't a good solution, that's just the way it is. I have never used a 60D so I don't know how many AF points it has or what type but I have no doubts it can do the job if you do your part. Within reasonable limits of course. I have shot sports and all kinds of stuff with cameras way less capable than the 60D. Once upon a time we didn't have AF and ASA (ISO) 400 was considered fast

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

“ALso keep in mind all camera/lens combos have their limits.  There might be a time where there isn't a good solution, that's just the way it is. I have never used a 60D so I don't know how many AF points it has or what type but I have no doubts it can do the job if you do your part.”

 

Enabling all of the AF points when using AI Servo is the best way to do it on the 9 point AF systems.  You do not get a tracking display, so you do not know which AF point has the focus.  I would compare it to using the “ring of fire” AF on a 1D Mark IV.  

--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

"Enabling all of the AF points when using AI Servo is the best way to do it..."

 

Perhaps but not for a beginner. Keeping it simple at first is better.  Center AF point and One shot. It is still my preferred way to shoot sports even with a 1DX. The number one or two best way is not camera related at all. It is a good working knowledge of the sport.  This way you are not at the mercy of what happens next and a whole array of AF points trying to guess at what is going on. The first most important thing, BTW, doesn't involve the camera either, it is location where you are shooting from.

 

I am not a 'spray and pray' guy, perhaps because of my early years experience.  But, whatever works for you!

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@ebiggs1 wrote:

"Enabling all of the AF points when using AI Servo is the best way to do it..."

 

Center AF point and One shot. It is still my preferred way to shoot sports even with a 1DX. 

 

I am not a 'spray and pray' guy, perhaps because of my early years experience.  But, whatever works for you!


I have found that using One Shot to photograph moving subjects almost always results in shots that are not tack sharp.  Why? Because of the small delay between locking focus and fully pressing the shutter.  

 

The subject can move just enough to be at the edge of the Depth of Field, or even move out of it.  Here is an example.

 

[EDIT - This photo needs a little explanation.  These runners are not in a pack.  They are running single file on a curve, and the  runner in white has a considerable lead.  The girls in red are entering the curve.  The girl in green is at the middle of the curve.  

 

The girl in white is exiting the curve.  I used One Shot focusing with the center AF to focus on the girl in white.  By the time the.shutter fired, the plane of focus is between the lead runner and the trailing group.  

 

The girl in white is exiting the front edge of the DOF, and the other runners are just outside the rear of the DOF.  The girl in green may actually be entering the rear of the DOF.]

 

2320540014832019_05_111003312.jpg

 

Using AI Servo means the camera keeps focus tracking right up to the moment when I fully press the shutter.

 

[EDIT - The photo below is a textbook example for using AI Servo focusing.  The subjects are moving in such a way that the distance to the camera is constantly changing, which is the same scenario as the above photo..

 

By using AI Servo, the camera is able to keep the runners in focus.  Keeper rate of shots in focus is nearly 100%.  Instead of looking for shots in focus, I am looking for shots with the best composition, such as when the runners are in similar body positions.]

 

2320540014832019_05_111002599.jpg

 

The only delay in taking the above shot is the shutter delay itself.  Using AI Servo is called focus tracking, not spray and pray.  But do as you say, go with whatever works for you.

--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

"Using AI Servo is called focus tracking, not spray and pray."

 

It is when you are using AI servo and 10fps shooting.  You are just hoping one shot will be in good focus instead of making sure one shot is in good focus.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Again thank you all for your recommendations. I only have 9 AF points on my camera. The best solution is a 70-200 lens F2.8. Is there any difference between the three generation of F2.8 cannon 70-200 lenses? Are the new Sigma or Tamron 70-200 F2.8 lens viable alternatives due to cost with almost same image quality?

 

 Thank you very much,

 

Robert


@bertotr wrote:

Again thank you all for your recommendations. I only have 9 AF points on my camera. The best solution is a 70-200 lens F2.8. Is there any difference between the three generation of F2.8 cannon 70-200 lenses? Are the new Sigma or Tamron 70-200 F2.8 lens viable alternatives due to cost with almost same image quality?

 

 Thank you very much,

 

Robert


Hi Robert:

I have Canon 60Ds and they are still among my favourite bodies to use, even after 9 years.

 

I have the 70-200 f2.8 MkII L and felt no need to upgrade to the MkIII - the lens is indeed a brilliant one and should render great results and the difference you would pay for the MkIII does not (to me) justify the difference in cost.  One thing I will mention - it feels like it weighs a ton at roughly 1.5kg (3.3lb) - I use a battery grip to balance things out a bit and it works.  I have no idea of your level of muscular endurance, but I know that I do weights to allow me to use a lens of its weight for extended periods and keep a steady hand. 

 

In the end I also got the EF 70-200 F4 MkII L, which I personally found to be a good combination between light weight (it is 45% lighter than the f2.8!!), the f4 gave me a bit more DoF and it has 5 stops of stabilization to offset the loss of light ( a boast that seems to be born out by 3rd party tests) - it's a beautiful lens.

 

Just to completely ruin your day and get accused of muddying the waters I also use for birds (that can be surprisingly similar as targets - fast and small and oftern in dim light) the EF 70-300 f4.5-5.6 IS II USM that comes in about the same weight as the 70-200 f4 lens but gives you 50% more reach, or the absolutely fabulous Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L which is about 33% lighter than the 70-200 f2.8 L and is tack sharp.

 

These longer lenses really come into their own when you have something like decent light, and I don't know the conditions under which you shoot, so I add that rider.

 

Edited with corrections in bold and red


cheers, TREVOR

"All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

You do mean 70-200 in both cases, right?

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA


@RobertTheFat wrote:

You do mean 70-200 in both cases, right?

 


Hi Robert et al.

 

Robert thank you for pickup up my slip-up..  Several distractions at that time.Man Embarassed

Yes I DO mean the 70-200 MkII and MkIII not 28-200!!!


cheers, TREVOR

"All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow", Leo Tolstoy;
"Skill in photography is acquired by practice and not by purchase" Percy W. Harris

"Is there any difference between the three generation of F2.8 cannon 70-200 lenses?"

 

Yes there is.  The big difference between version III and II is the lens coating. This may not sound like a big deal but it is. However, it is not big enough for a version II owner to buy the III model, IMHO.  You do want to look for a version II over the first model if you can but in reality any of Canon's 70-200mil zooms are fantastic. That statement includes the f4 models, too.

 

If you decide to go off brand the one to get at this moment is the Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 Lens.

 

"I only have 9 AF points on my camera."

 

This is not a problem as I suggested you just use the center AF point. Turn the others off. If you don't use proper camera settings the best 70-200mm lens in the world will not get you great pictures.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!
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