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Canon 18-200mm zoom lense

jazzman1
Rising Star

I'm new here.  I have a Canon T3i.  Two kit lenses came with it in a bundle...18-55mm, 55-250mm.  I am considering getting the Canon 18-200mm.  Would the Canon 18-200mm be a good choice to replace both lenses, or are there better choices to replace them with and keep the 18-200mm also?

2 ACCEPTED SOLUTIONS

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

I would not buy one for a few reasons.  One and formost, it is more difficult to make a zoom lens when the zoom range gets very extreme.  18 to 200 is a 11x range and very ambitious to say the least. Not solely in optics but in build quality, too. It will be in the same quality level as the two lenses you have so the only advantage is having just the one lens.  Is that what you require? The top benefit of a DSLR is the ability to have the right lens for the right job.  That usually involves several different lenses.  So you will be defeating that concept somewhat!

 

I would rather see you get a different level of lens for instance the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens.  Directly replacing your 18-55mm kit lens. Of course this is in case what you have is not working for you. But this move is into a better built, better optics and a little faster lens all of which can be very useful.  Make no mistake the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens is a very good lens and offers a constant aperture.  A super plus in my book.

 

Unfortunalely these lens upgrades are expensive and replacing the 55-250mm is going to be more so.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

View solution in original post

Easy ones first!

The S in EF-S stands for short focus.  Any camera that can use a EF-S lens can use a EF lens, too.  A camera that is designed for EF lenses can only use EF, no S lenses.

 

The EF 50mm f1.4 is can be used on either EF or EF-S bodies.  It is not actually designed for either.  It is simply a 50mm f1.4 lens.  Either body no matter, it is still a 50mm lens.  It can not change that, however, on a crop body, a Rebel for instance, it will give the same perspective as a 80mm lens would on a full frame body.  Typically making it a pretty good portrait lens.

Now these are just numbers and of no real concern except to sorta guide you in a comparasion.  You choose the lens that works for your need.

 

You need to make the decision on whether you are going to remain with crop body sized camera or not.  You may wind up buying all your lenses over and that is not a good thing!  Is it?  I know lots of people that live with crop bodies all there lives and  know folks that only shoot FF.  There is not right or wrong.  It is what it is. Nothing more.  Lots of photographers even shoot both, believe it or not!

 

Now my personal feelings on a "do all lens".  For me there is none.  I always have at least two cameras and two lenses with me all the time.  A very strict rule I never broke..................until lately.  Another rule I will never break is to use any third party lens...............................until lately.  For the most part they were junk.  Oh sure if you lucked out and got a good one, it was pretty good, no doubt.  But very spotty and hit or miss.   Not for me!  But "lately" there has been a great change in third party lenses.  Especially at Sigma.  They make very high quality glass and they have improved their CS drasticly.  Tamron is close behind and getting better.  Forget the rest, Tokina and the others for now

 

Now back to that "do all" lens.  I did buy a Tamron SP 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Di VC USD.  Not quite a "do all" but it has a fair amount of zoom useage.  It turns out it is a nice lens and impossibile to beat for $1100 bucks.  Worthy of consideration by anyone.

 

What do I carry?  A EF 24-70mm f2.8 and a EF 70-200mm f2.8  Canon "L" lenses.  My goto and workhorse combo.  That is as good as it gets.  There is nothing better on the planet.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

View solution in original post

182 REPLIES 182

Good! I am glad you are progressing. You really need to learn PSE first.  Before you jump into a photo quality printer.

But if you were ready right now, the one to get is the Pixma Pro-100.  I have it along with three other (different) photo printers.

One word of caution, a photo printer is just that!  A PHOTO PRINTER.  It will not do general office printing very easy or friendly. The two are the horse of a different color, to quote a certain wizard, I know.

 

After you get PSE, you have everything you need to learn this trade or hobby.  At this point education is the key word.

 

I will say until you can judge your photos at 100% crop, you really can't judge them at all vs a different camera and/or lens.

Also the photos must be done exactly the same way and of the same subject.

 

Again, IMHO, I would put the Rebel down and concentrate on the 60D and 24-105mm f4.  And PSE of course and when you get it, never shoot a jpg again!  Use only RAW. Period, end of story.   Answer this, are you truly wanting the best?  If, yes, is your answer, you can not get it with a jpg.  Make sure PSE is set to AdobeRGB especially if you get a photo printer.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Hey Biggs, I'm coming along just fine.  I do plan on getting Photoshop Elements as my next purchase.  I need to replenish the funds in the bank 1st that I've just spent on my lens and camera.  But I will get it very soon.  I like what you said about using my 60D and putting the Rebel away.   That's what I was thinking.  Be hard to use the Rebel now, since I've seen the results of my 60D. 

 

You know I've complained about how the pics took in auto mode with my rebel.  People said that I should'nt care and get into manual mode to solve that issue.   My new 60D does'nt have that fault.  In fact, the few pics I've taken in auto mode (just to see what the pics looked like)  with the 60D on a whole.....looked better than the manual settings I used with my Rebel.  That again takes me back to the thought that my Rebel could be defective.  Anyhow, I'm tinkering over the thought as to what to do with my Rebel.  Sell it, or let it just collect dust, for now????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

 

I hear you about me getting into RAW and I will when I get Photoshop Elements.  In the meantime I need to just get comfortable with the 60D and see how it goes through all the paces.  I need to get through the learning curve, it is greater than normal for me.  The buttons have different funtions and there's many new features and buttons I've never used before.   As you say I'm going to concentrate on PSE and my 60D for the moment.   Actually I need to come up with new places and areas to take my shots.  I'm wearing out the same park I've been going to everyday when  I go out and shoot.    I'm looking for new places to practice my art.  Do you have any suggestions for me on that???   I have my camera set to RGB and so you're saying to set PSE to AGB too???  I'm not ready right now for a photo printer, I was just asking for future reference.  Thanks for  your suggestion as to a good brand and model.  That's one of the tools to get  that's in my photo plan.  Don't worry, I already have top notch Pc's and a printer for everyday use.   In fact I'm pretty proficient with Pc's in general.  I do most of my own upgrading and repairs.  So Pc's are not a issue that will be a hinderence for me with Photography.  ,

QUESTION???

 

I know usually the lower the aperture number, the better quality of the lens, it's better in lower light.  But with the 50mm prime, it's just the opposite.  1.4 is better than 1.8....... 1.2 is even better than both.  Why is that, I don't understand.

I just got an email from my photo club that they're putting on 3 classes....Photography 100, 101, 102, in 3 separate classes, starting saturday the 11th, and the folowing 2 saturdays in a row.  I'm taking all 3 classes..  Least I'm going to sighup for all three classes.  There's a 30 person limit, hope I make it in. 

 

Also I can get Photoshop elements 13 for $80.00.  I can get Adobe Photoshop Elements 3 + Adobe Premire Elements 13 for $120.00.  What is Premere 13, and what is it for???  Do I need it????


@jazzman1 wrote:

QUESTION???

 

I know usually the lower the aperture number, the better quality of the lens,

 

No, that's not true. The quality of the lens has little or nothing to do with the aperture number. There are lenses with wide apertures that are crappy and lenses with narrow apertures that are very good.

 

it's better in lower light.

 

That is true, at the lens's widest apertures. Wider apertures let in more light.

 

But with the 50mm prime, it's just the opposite.  1.4 is better than 1.8....... 1.2 is even better than both.  Why is that, I don't understand.

 

If by "better" you mean "better in low light at the lens's widest aperture", that's true, but it isn't the opposite of anything. Remember that the aperture number (or "f stop") is always stated as the ratio of the focal length to the aperture, not the other way around. So lower aperture numbers mean wider apertures. An f/1.2 lens has a wider aperture than an f/1.4 lens, etc.

 

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

Hey Bob, good to hear from you again.  I'm confused my friend, was before you came and still am now  But it's no fault of yours.   I still can't register what you said.  I understand now the aperture has nothing to do with quality, I should have known that.  I also thought lower the number of the aperture, the better for low light.  Like in my 24-105 f4L lens, vs. 24-105 f2.8L.  The f2.8L with a lower number aperture is better in low light...right!!!!

 

Then if so,  why not the same with the 50mm f1.8 prime vs. 50mm f1.4 prime???  1.8 is a lower number also, right???  As the aperture number goes up with this lens, so does the price.  I'm not getting something here.

Sorry Bob, my brain must be asleep LOL.  1.4 is a lower aperture number than 1.8.   1.4 lets more light in, so I guess that's why the price is more.  I think I got it now.  For some strange reason I was getting my math wrong...I was thinking 1.8 was lower.  Thanks Bob, I will be reading you.


@jazzman1 wrote:

Sorry Bob, my brain must be asleep LOL.  1.4 is a lower aperture number than 1.8.   1.4 lets more light in, so I guess that's why the price is more.  I think I got it now.  For some strange reason I was getting my math wrong...I was thinking 1.8 was lower.  Thanks Bob, I will be reading you.


Let's face it: the terminology of photography can be pretty arcane. But because everybody uses it, the easiest course of action is to get along by going along. I remember my dad trying to teach me the basics when I was about 12 years old: focal length, f stop sequences, how to load a developing tank, why you needed both developer and fixer, etc, etc. I finally started to catch on and was able to proceed on my own. So will you. Once you get used to it, you'll forget how confusing it all used to be.

 

While I've got your ear, let me urge you to put equipment acquisition on the back burner for a while. You're already better equipped than most photographers at your level of experience and familiarity with the craft. You should spend your time now taking pictures and criticizing the results. Once you've done that for a while (at least several months), you'll start to see what you could do better and what equipment might help you do it. You'll be in a better position to make sound choices and less likely to buy equipment you don't really need and probably won't use.

 

You already have what's most important at this stage: great enthusiasm for photography and a determination to make it work for you. Now you have to keep learning and doing. Read the literature of photography whenever you can; attend exhibits at museums and galleries; and pay close attention to the instructors at the classes you've signed up for - always remembering that what you see and hear are only suggestions for what to try and that ultimately you have to find your own way. Above all, get out there and take pictures.

 

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

I think you are confusing the word "quality".  But remember Canon, or any lens makers does not put cheap parts into a lens that has an expensive piece of glass as its front element.  Quality is not the size or f-ratio of a lens but low f-number lenses are the best "quality" because they get the best parts.  No one would put top quality parts into a EF 50mm f1.8.  If they did it would cost way more than $100 bucks.

 

What Bob from Boston says about shooting more and learning more is spot on.  Just like I suggested, put the Rebel away for now and learn the 60D with the EF 24-105mm.  But at the same time learn PSE.  The two go hand in hand.  You really can't do one with out the other.  That is if you want the best "quality" photographs. 50% equipment, 50% you and 50% post editing.  You need to shoot RAW.  Might as well start off where you will end up.  Go slow at first with easy edits.  See what works and what doesn't.  Just shoot something and edit it.  Anything!  It doesn't matter.  You are learning.

 

Photography classes are always good.  I still attend some along with some seminars.  However all "teachers" are not equal.  If you are not progressing, get another class.  There are some bad dudes out there.

 

I had a series of photographs for my students called "All you have to do it look."  I did this because so many people said exactly the same thing as you.  "I have been to that place so many times, there is nothing left to shoot."  It does not matter where you go in the world, you hear this.  From mountains, to oceans, to deserts, ancient cities to modern.  People eventually come to this conclusion.  And of course it is BS.  If you can't find something to shoot, you are not looking.

 

At Hallmark we had 50,000 images of a red rose!  Why?  Who knows but there is always something to shoot.

 

I use full blown Photoshop so I will be of little help with PSE 13.  Except for some basic editing features that both share.  Adobe is not going to give you PS ($600 bucks) for the PSE price of $120.

I don't know the difference in PSE and PSE Premier.  Maybe video is added?

 

You need to set PSE to AdobeRGB and not sRGB (in camera) as you have it now.  When you switch to RAW, soon I hope, this setting does not matter.  It will be set by PSE for you but you must tell PSE to use it.  Most settings are done in the editor with RAW.

 

Go shoot..........................................Smiley Happy

I just got a Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 Di LD (IF) Macro AF Lens and I am going to try it out today.  The Sun is shining. The birds are singing.  I am in hog heaven as this is what I really love doing.  Everybody says it is a very good lens.  We'll see as I will make my own judgement.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Bob, thanks for your help and info.  Bigg has told me basically the same you have.  I am taking that suggestion you guys gave me, I'm going out shooting everyday.  In fact the people at the park I go to probably call me the mad camera man, I'm there so much LOL.  I only ask about lens and apertures and such for my education and info.  I am putting certain lenses I think I want for the future in a wish list at a place I buy lens from.  But have no plans to get anything for now, other than editing software.  I'm learning my friend.

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