10-18-2013 10:20 AM
Thank you..... I'm going to check the lens out. Your comment makes me feel a little bit better about my pictures.... LOL I thought perhaps I was hopeless last night. Started reading all the links and suggestions and was a bit overwhelmed.
10-18-2013 10:23 AM
Your photos look good, I think thr biggest if not one of the more important things to do would be using a lens hood.
10-18-2013 10:37 AM
There are a couple things I would have done differently in the photos you shared. As you take more pictures you will notice some little things that make good photos, great.
For example if you permit me, I would have put the railroad tracks in the center of the photograph . Kinda like the diminishing returns of the parallel lines. And the rail in the other photo adds nothing but obstruction. Still your photos are very nice and there will always be "critics"!
Besides your equipment, the Canon T4i and a 24-105mm f4 L, the addition of some post processing software would be a fine idea. Photos are not solely made in the camera!
10-18-2013 01:45 PM
10-19-2013 11:26 AM
Hi "grandma"! I am a grandpa and I worked for Hallmark Cards for 40 years. I am still taking pictures so don't worry too much about 'burning out'.
I looked at you flickr page and it looks like you don't need too much help. The only thing I would still recommend is watching the background.
Secondly, the Canon 75-300mm f4-5.6 is not in the same class as the 24-105mm f4 L. If you get the "L", look further for a bigger zoom. Unfortunately as the zoom ratio gets bigger the lens gets worse in picture quality, if that is important to you.
You know you can always get "two feet" zooms? Yes, you can get some very nice prime focal length lenses and walk to zoom them!
Some "better" choices would be the Canon 70-300mm f4-5.6 IS USM or even better the 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 L IS USM.
They are going to cost you more but from your flickr page and what you have said, I believe you would get your good use out of lenses of this quality. Because it sounds like you really enjoy photography.
Sigma, a series of lenses I have come to like lately, has some zooms in this same price range that go up to 500mm. Their
50-500mm f4.5-6.3 APO DG OS HSM is a really nice lens and is on sale right now. Keep in mind, however, it is not a Canon "L" but it doesn't cost like 'L' either. (Pun intended!)
Al the best,
10-19-2013 04:55 PM
Right now the Tamron 70-300 VC seems to be the best lens in it's class, and although I haven't owned or used one I've read a lot of praise about it. Hese's a good siscussion on it and they are comparing it to the much more expensive (and highly respected) Canon 70-300 L IS.
11-18-2013 11:32 AM
You could do this with the kit 18-55mm lens (assuming you have this lens).
I have to agree. I haven't done a lot of automotive photography, but my one excursion into it came not long after I got my Digital Rebel Xt. The only lens I had was the kit lens, so that's what I used. I was surprised by the quality of the results I achieved shooting a local car show that was held on a local city street.
11-17-2018 01:44 AM - edited 11-21-2018 08:44 AM
I am also interested in this. I would like to take such photos! It is so inspiring, they are really professional! Also, I'm wondering can I use these tips for genre choosing http://fixthephoto.com/blog/photo-tips/how-to-choose-your-genre-in-photography.html
11-18-2018 07:56 AM - edited 11-18-2018 07:59 AM
I am also interested in this. I would like to take such photos!
I have photographed a few car shows, just to give myself a reason to use my cameras. Using a full frame camera, I have photographed cars over a range of 14mm to 100mm. I like the results at 35mm the best.
As noted above, a slightly wide angle lens works well on cars. A Canon APS-C sensor body with a 22mm lens is equivalent to a 35mm on a full frame body. [The standard 18-55mm lens would be almost ideal on an APS-C body, which is roughly equivalent to a 24-70mm lens on a full frame body.]
Getting good exposures on super shiny cars in bright sunlight can be tricky sometimes. You will frequently get blown highlights, because the camera’s metering can easily be fooled. So, I dial in a bit negative exposure compensation when i take the shots, and just accept the fact that there will almost always be small reflections of blown highlights. After all, that is pretty much what you eyes see when you look at the shiny cars, anyway.