06-11-2013 11:53 AM
06-11-2013 12:25 PM
A biologist and bird expert friend of mine always focusses on the eyes and head when possible as it is usually the first place the person looks at.
06-11-2013 12:29 PM
That is going to depend heavily on which camera, and to a lesser extent, which lens, that you’re using. More advanced AF systems can just be put on AI Servo (auto tracks moving subjects and locks focus), and use all the points. Lower end cameras may not have a very good servo and you need to just go for single shots. Slow camera lens combos may also need to use the faster center point in order to lock on in certain conditions.
It’s really going to depend. Try using AI servo with auto point selection, if that doesn’t work then you’ll have to scale back.
06-11-2013 04:09 PM
I use the center point only most of the time (with AI Servo and Back Button Focusing).
Occasionally I'll use Expansion Points or Zone Focus. These are not available on all models (they are on 7D, 5DIII). I never use All Points (Auto Selection). I'll particularly use a multi-point in situations where the subject is against a plain background (birds against a largely blue sky, for example) or a very distant background (miles away). If the subject is against a busy, close background (such as birds with a bunch of trees close behind them), or - even worse - some foreground obstructions I will use a single point only. In these situations using any of the multiple point modes, often the camera might choose to focus somewhere other than the subject, or jump back and forth and not be focused on anything at times.
In general, I prefer to control where the lens is focusing myself.... so I choose a single focus point.
On some cameras, the center point is quite a bit better than the peripheral points. With 7D, the peripheral points are very usable. With 5DII and some of the earlier or less expensive models, the peripheral points just aren't responsive enough for fast moving subjects.
One problem with using the center point only is that your images will tend to all have the subject centered. Sometimes I try to leave a little room for cropping after the fact, so that I can change the composition if I wish.
Another problem with using only one point is that the user has to concentrate on keeping it right where you want focus. It takes some practice and work.... but gives the best keeper rate.
Using Back Button Focusing you can start focus early and keep tracking a subject for a while, before taking a shot (or shots).
In general, USM lenses and large aperture lenses will also give better results.
If possible, stop your lens down a bit to give yourself a little more room for slight focus errors. With birds, if you are focusing on the head and eye and want to keep both wing tips relatively in focus, with longer lenses you are going to need to stop down a bit anyway.
Don't expect perfection. With moving subjects there is nearly always some loss and missed focus. With the right camera and lenses, and plenty of practice, you can get a pretty high keeper rate.... but take extra shots anyway, just to be sure.
06-12-2013 10:50 AM
Thanks for the info, that is what I have been doing. People at Canon suggest using multipoints for focusing. As you said, practice,practice,practice.
06-24-2013 12:11 PM
Thanks for the info, I have a 7D and was using the center focus point only, will try multi points and I do use back button focus.
06-24-2013 04:36 PM
Make sure you switch to "AI Servo" mode (not "One Shot"). Otherwise the camera will stop focusing once it gets an initial lock, the bird will keep moving, and the focus will no longer be accurate.
Moving objects can be difficult for any camera... use of lenses with fast (USM) focusing motors helps, also enabling image stabilization (even when using shutter speeds which are fast enough to not reuqire image stabilization) will help the camera lock focus faster and more accurately.
You may also want to use "Continuous" mode.
06-25-2013 10:26 AM
Tim, I do all of what you suggest. I use the Canon 100-400mmL lens and am considering the Sigma 50-500mm OS lens. Does anyone have any knowledge about this lens. SinceIi can't afford the Canon 500mm, thought this might be a good alternate.
06-25-2013 11:54 AM
I know of the Sigma 50-500 but have no experience with it. You can find online reviews for opinions.
Most of the birders I talk to seem to prefer a focal length of about 400mm. I own an EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM (the original... no the "II") and since this lens can be used with a 2x extender to get an effective 600mm f/5.6, I've tried this while shooting birds in flight.
What I _can_ tell you is that I think 600mm is just too much. The angular field of view is so narrow that if you fail to track the bird perfectly and it gets out of frame, you will have NO IDEA which way it went and getting it back into the frame is a challenge. I've used my 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM with the same 2x and found it was easier mostly because I could zoom out, re-acquire my bird, then zoom in to photograph (the ability to zoom out was most useful for provide that temporary wider view of the sky so I find my subject again.)
That is to say... I'm not sure I'd want a 500mm prime for a fast moving target that requires tracking -- but then again, I am not a birder -- experience bird photographers likely do MUCH better at this than me.
06-25-2013 01:13 PM
Thanks Tim, I have 2 friends who use the 50-500mm Sigma, one is the old lens, the other one new and they get very good results on birds in flight. Also, I find the push-pull of Canon to be harder to use.
If anyone out there has an opinion or knowledge of the Sigma, would appreciate hearing from you.
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